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Subject: My Home Made (DIY) Survive! game rss

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Lincoln Damerst
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Hello,

Several people have asked me how I made my copy of Survive! that I recently posted photos of on Boardgamegeek. They start here http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/64344. So I figured I could do a journal to try and tell them how I did it.

Firstly, I was fortunate enough to have a friend who recently had purchased the game and he let me borrow it to copy all of the graphic elements. I cleaned up the artwork and spliced the two scans of the cover (may scanner allows me to scan up to 12" x 18" but the box top is bigger than that) to get the artwork for the box top. I then created new tile backs with a more modern and larger font and cleaned up artwork from the backs of the original tiles in CorelDraw.

I then used a color laserjet to print the full sheet labels for the tiles and I stuck the terrain side stickers on illustration board and then cut out the tiles with an X-acto knife and metal ruler and then apply the back side stickers (that had the shape of the tile on them, slightly larger than the actual tile, for orientation) and then trimmed those up with the X-acto knife. I did basically the same thing for the boats.

As for the game board, I again used the color laserjet to print the map in 4 pieces on 11" x 17" paper, that actually included portions of the map that extended over into the other quadrants of the map to allow for adjustment when mounting to game board. To make the actual game board itself, I used illustration board cut into 4 pieces of the exact same size and glued paper hinges on them to allow the board to fold up in the manner I was looking for. I used a really nice metallic blue vellum paper for the back side of the board and used 3M Super 77 spray adhesive and mounted the paper to the back of the board. I folded the board up to trim the excess vellum at the edge of the illustration board with the X-acto knife. I folded the vellum crisply over the top edge of the board and extended it 3/8” on to the top to allow for size issues with the map print outs. I then trimmed the print outs to line up as best as possible and then used 3M Super 77 to mount the map to the game board.

For the wood pieces I traced the original whale tale, shark fin and sea monster onto some 3/8” oak stock and cut the pieces out with a scroll saw. I sanded them and painted them with an acrylic wash to get the color and then I applied several coats of Future Acrylic Floor Finish (that stuff dries very hard) . For the survivors I think I used a 3/8” wood dowel and a ¼” dowel that I cut to about ¼ “ slices. I cut the larger dowel to slightly more than ½ of a circle and glued the ¼” dowel piece on that for the head. I then finished them in the same manner as the monster pieces but I added decals that I created in the same manner as the die that I detail below to the bottoms to indicate survivor value and applied a few more coats of the acrylic floor finish.

For the die, I redrew the monster shapes in CorelDraw and applied a gradient fill on them to make them more interesting. I printed them out on the color laserjet on to a decal paper that I got from MicroMark and then sprayed a thin coat of fixative on them to protect them in the application process. I got a wooden ¾” wooden cube from a craft shop (Michaels) and sanded the edges to round it out a bit and then painted it white and gave it several coats of the Future Floor Acrylic Finish and let it dry thoroughly. I then applied the decals and used a solution that I got from MicroMark that softens the decal so that it flattens completely on the surface and almost looks as if it was printed directly on the surface. I then added a few more coats of the floor finish.

To make the box I used something often called chip board that is basically the stuff you find on the backs of note pads that was in pieces large enough to make each box piece in one piece. I cut the box top slightly larger than the bottom and glued the corners together with strips of brown paper sack folded in half and white glue and held the corners in place until it dried enough (not too long really) to tape them temporarily with artist’s tape (low adhesion tape) to allow it time to dry completely. I again used CorelDraw to lay out the new box cover and back art to match my box size. I printed these pieces out on a large format plotter (in this case a HP DesignJet 5000 PS) on a satin finish photo paper. I coated the print with Lyson Print Guard Archival Lacquer Spray ($15 a can) to protect the box from fingerprints and for UV protection. I cut the prints so that I could fold the corners on one edge over the other edge and then lay that edge over that to make the corners look very professional. I again used the 3M Super 77 spray adhesive to mount the prints to the box.

To make the insert I studied the Carcassonne insert to figure out how to fold the insert to fit. I fabricated the insert out of the chip board and the glued the print of the tray from the original Survive! Box that I printed again on the HP DesignJet 5000 but this time printed on bond paper. I glued this on with glue stick as I was concerned about the solvent from the Super 77 ruining the print. I glued it on with the tray lying flat and as soon as I had it trimmed with the X-acto I folded it into the shape I wanted it to be and put it into the box to dry.

Let me know if you have any questions about the processes or techniques I used.
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♪ Isaäc Bickërstaff ♫
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That's Incredible!
If there were a Geek version of that old TV show, you would be on it. This set looks better than any of the versions available second-hand.

Amazing.
 
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Dwayne Hendrickson
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Great job, but how much did this cost??
 
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Lincoln Damerst
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Thanks,

It cost about $45 dollars but the time that went into it was the killer. I spent quite a few evenings for about a month to get it done.

Lincoln
 
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Lincoln Damerst
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Cost to make
Actually it would be a bit more than that as I had access to the color laserjet and large format printer to print the components out. Those would probably add $15-20 to the cost.
 
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Chaddyboy
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Great job, but you do realize that you could have saved a lot of time and money buy just buying one off from Ebay, don't you? They regularly sell for $20-$30.
 
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Scott A. Reed
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I dunno Chad, maybe I'm the fool who is soon parted from his money, but I would almost pay $45 for a nice version of Survive! that came in a square box with a quad-fold board rather than have the original Parker long-box. Also, I have to commend Lincoln on his use of artwork and design to make an exempary Survive! set. When I first saw the pitures, I thought they were from a new European release, and did not know that they were home-made until I saw the captions. Well done!
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Kallen McInerney
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Excellent work and thanks for explaining your techniques.

I built new components for my copy of Dune about 6 months ago they came out really well. Like you say time is the killer but its quite rewarding if you have that kind of spare time. People like to ask 'why' but once I start it just consumes me.

I plan to use some of your techniques for a version of Hannibal that I'm working on. Although I only have scans of the counters (thank goodness) I'm building the rest myself in photoshop based on the images here on the geek.
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Lincoln Damerst
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BoardGameGeek » Forums » Everything Else » OLD BGGBlogs (do not use)
The cost is not the thing with this project
Chad, My friend Daryl (gmarius) who bought the game I original played had spent $54 or so on eBay at the time to get it. But I was taken by it's designer game elements and I wanted to make a version to match those qualities. Plus I just wanted to do it as Kallen mentioned. It became something I really looked forward to working on, egged on perhaps by how well it was turning out. The tiles are thick and the pieces look great adding to an already neat game.

I'll come up with a shopping list last includes approximate costs for those interested.

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Thomas Powell
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A new hobby for me?
I am so impressed with this project! My hobbies are gaming and woodworking (especially pen turning), but I never considered combining the two!

I think I might begin by turning some game pieces (pawns) and then using the scrollsaw to make custom wooden parts for some of my games...

What other games would benefit from this type of makeover?

Tom
 
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Lincoln Damerst
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Other games that might benefit from custom pieces
Tom,

I noticed a geeklist (http://www.boardgamegeek.com/geeklist.php3?action=view&listi...) after I did my version of the game that covered a topic like that. The one that intrigued me was the stuff Jeff Wauer (jaywowzer) did for Trias before the second edition. Here they are (http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/29258) and I like them much better than the second edition. I woant to make pieces like his and I think that that would really add to the game.
 
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Dwayne Hendrickson
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did you make the box or cannibalize another box of the same size (aka Politika)
 
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Lincoln Damerst
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The box
I actually made the box to match the folded game board. It was really easy and it turned out great.
 
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M G
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Wow!
Wow... what a great looking game! Hard to believe it is a homemade copy. Gives hope to those of us who have contemplated such a project for OOP games ourselves. cool

Keep us posted on any others you decide to tackle.
 
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Rob Rob
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Quote:
Great job, but you do realize that you could have saved a lot of time and money buy just buying one off from Ebay, don't you? They regularly sell for $20-$30.


Agreed but that doesn't include the other less tangible benefit of hours of contemplative fun crafting something out of nothing. I did something very similar when I made my own wooden En Garde game. It took a few evenings and cost double what the game might sell for on eBay but it was very satisfying and nice enough so that I can leave it out on the coffee table for show.
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andrew
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Robrob
you took the words right out of my mouth...

you gotta love the end result and the fact it's a one off..
 
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Scott Starkey
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Absolutely beautiful
Thanks for sharing your story!
 
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Michael Pearsall
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May I cross post?
I wanted to let you know that I have linked to this journal from http://www.bgdf.com (The Boardgame Designer's Forum). I think your techniques can be of great use to those who are making prototypes of their own games to play or to submit to game companies. I hope you don't mind!
 
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Lincoln Damerst
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Prototype link
Michael,

No problem. That's kind of what I was going for when I made it, not for any game designs I might have, but for a few friends who are working on something. I haven't received an assignment yet from them, but I do look forward to trying it with my artwork and designs.

Lincoln
 
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Steve Sisk
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Very cool job!!

And the Board Game Designers Forum (www.bgdf.com) has a protoparts section where you can find blank 20" x 20" quad fold game boards and game boxes to fit them.
 
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Lincoln Damerst
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Map prints
Someone pointed out that I used Super 77 on the map printouts and and that could be a problem like with the tray. Actually I used a heavy 11" x 17" cover stock that did not let the solvent from the spray adhesive show through. It also helped conceal the bump of the paper hinges below the map when mounted to the board.
 
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Lincoln Damerst
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Some shortcuts in doing this
It has been pointed out that there are some components at this site that would help reduce manufacturing time
http://bgdf.com/catalog/. The quad-fold board and box to fit it are nice and cheap. It didn't take long for me to make them, and even cheaper, but it would be nice to cut a few steps. Hope this helps.

Lincoln
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