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Hi folks,
I need some help. Problem is the following:
A friend of mine works in a company where he can get me some sheets of Plexiglass for a cheap (at least in Germany) price.
I am planning to cover my gaming table (1 m x 2 m) with TWO sheets of plexiglass (1.2 m x 1.2 m) so I have a nice surface for about 3 standard wargame maps. For smaller maps (example: Roads & Boats) I can use one part of the plexi.
I can get two different sizes of Plexiglass. One is 2 mm thick, the other one is 6 mm thick. I have to pay 10 € for the 2 mm, 30 € for the 6 mm. I am planning to put 2 sheets of plexi down as a surface (beside one another), then cover it with another 2 parts.
Storage of the Plexi when not in use will be (because we sometimes use the table for RPG) behind a desk or shelf.
Here is my question: Is the 2 mm sheet to thin? Will it bend after a while (especially with the storage method) and make the idea of a straight clear surface obsolete? Should I store the Plexi in a different "position". I can not easily store it lying flat due to the room-size and the amount of gaming shelfs.
6 mm Plexi would be strong enough. But the price is steep (4 pcs for 120 € (about 140 $) - I could buy games for the difference between this version and 4 sheets of 2 mm plexi for 40 € (ca. 50 $).
Any suggestions?
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Hallo Bei mir liegen die Platten immer auf dem Tisch. Ich habe mir als Unterlage zwischen Platte und Tisch und wenn ich sie nicht brauche zum abdecken zwei passende ( auf allen Seiten stehen ca. 10 cm über) Filzbahnen gekauft. (Neuterale dunkle Farben).Dadurch sind die Plexiglasplatten immer gut geschützt. 6mm ist zu dick. Die Counter schweben zu hoch über dem Plan. Meine sind auch 2-3 mm stark. Beim nächsten mal würde ich mir nur Platten kaufen die entspiegelt sind, aber wenn man sie günsig bekommt sind normale auch OK. Markus
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Of course, for all I know, Markus already had the same advice I'm giving you...
I'd go with the 2mm. Yes, more care must be taken with handling it, but there is much less of a parallax issue with the thinner plexiglass - markers looking like they're in one place to you, and in a slightly different place to the player on the other side of the table, and this gets worse, the thicker the plexiglass. (Can make for some arguments in the crayon-rail games, too.)
In my experience, it's difficult to make Plexiglass warp. I still have some pieces that have been shipped from Texas, to Colorado, to Florida, and they haven't warped at all. And with 2mm, it's so thin it probably has little choice but to lay flat, anyway.
I'm not clear on why you need two pieces underneath them, though. Be careful pulling the top layer off though, if you do - always slide one piece off the other, and not just pull straight up.
If storing them on edge, try to make it on something with some padding - like carpet. Set it down on tile just the slightest bit too suddenly, and you can have a corner shatter off.
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It sounds like you are planning to place plexiglass on the table and then the map on top of the plexiglass and then another piece of plexiglass on top of that.
you do not need to do this. I would buy a piece of pink insulating foam to use as a base. Then put the map on that and the plexiglass on top of the map. You should only need 2 plexiglass pieces this way and can then move the wargame if you need to save it for later play.
-M
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Thinner is probably better--both lighter to move and less refraction (When viewing a map at angle, light is bent as is goes through plexiglass. This means the players may spot pieces/drawn lines (for RR gamess) slightly off from correct position.) That means some care should used when moving the plexiglass (but it won't shatter like glass)
You don't need anything fancy underneath the mamp, the weight of the plaxiglass holds everything in place.
The size I use is 24" x 18" (~ 60 cm x ~45 cm) which is large enough to cover a 4 panel wargame map and I use 2 for an 8 panel map. I also go other places to game, the smaller size is easier to transport.
If you plan on writing on the plexiglass, use wet erase or overhead projector markers. They dry quickly and don't smudge and can be easily cleaned with a wet paper towel.
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2mm will work fine, save the extra $$ for something else.
It isn't likely to warp without being heated unless it's bent at a pretty severe angle for a long time.
I'm not sure why you'd need the double layer under the maps? Do you have an unusually rough table? Or maybe playing on carpet? If its a normal, reasonably smooth, table, I wouldn't bother with that either.
2mm will be a lot more fragile than 6mm, so be careful lifting it, and very careful setting it on its side. Mitering the corners will make them less chippable.
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Where do you guys buy plexiglass sheets in the US?
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Home Depot and other DIY-type stores carry plexi and Lexan (much more chip and bend resistant, but very expensive).
BoBo Steve
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2mm is pretty close to the thickness i've been using for years. Yes, it can warp while being stored on edge, but like someone earlier posted, thicker plexiglass can lead to weird visual effects. As for where to buy in the states, just about any hardware/lumberyard store will store sheets in pre-cut sizes. They can also (usually) cut custom sizes (something I'm about to do).
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FlyingElvis wrote: Where do you guys buy plexiglass sheets in the US? Anywhere that sells poster frames. Walmart, Kmart, Target, craft stores, ect.... Mike Z
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350 and some odd days until BGG.con
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Plexi tip
Glass shops start with big sheets of plexiglass. They cut what they need out of the big sheets. They throw many odd-sized remainders away. A piece of plexi that is less than a foot wide will not have much use to the shop, as there are few windows that size.
You can ask at a glass shop if you can have a couple of the larger of their throw-away pieces. I acquired 3 sheets this way. Any 2 of the pieces are big enough to cover a gameboard. I had to stop at 2 different glass shops on 2 different days to pick up mine, but once they knew I was looking for scraps they saved me some suitable pieces. I got lucky and got 3 pieces of the same thickness, but had I not I could have gone back a third time.
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How do you treat the edges so they aren't too sharp?
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