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Bringing back the dead part 3 : some past terrain projects

K G
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albuquerque
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I wasn't born ! I sprang from the forhead of God , as he contemplated a particularly vile joke !
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I wasn't born , I was hatched in the deepest darkest part of the ocean , and raised by sharks !
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bring a past post back for my BGG blog .



I have been working on a lot of projects for a lot of games and personal stuff , to the point of over load .

I have had to cut WAYYYYYYYYY back on a lot and put several others on the shelf till later , because I had so many things going on , I couldn’t get ANY of them done .

So I have made this thread so that i can post the terrain projects I am doing as i get them done .

So first up is the rubble walls sections .

Now I used to play that evil vile game WH40K a long while back , I was heavily into the modeling aspects so I have some experience at their terrain and modeling and painting and such .

So I have seen a lot of the terrain projects people have done for ruined buildings for WH40K and the like , and the one issue I have with them is that when you build a ruin on a base , its always going to be that size . And a lot of the modelers like to put a lot of rubble on the bases , its just not practical to play on . the scenery falls apart , and it can damage minis depending on what its made out of .

Looking at pictures of bombed out cities from WW2, there is a lot of rubble filling the space the buildings used to occupy , and small rubble wall sections and building corners .

Doing the WH40k method may look nice , but is impractical for playing on . Instead I wanted something more modular and practical . as a result I decided to make corners and wall sections , without the big rectangular bases , so I can make the buildings as big or small as I wanted to just by moving the corners closer or farther apart .

One of the big drawbacks to a lot of terrain is its made out of cheap crap , so it falls apart if you just look at it wrong , and most gamers are not gentle enough , so it just doesn’t last .

So instead of the cheap materials like foam board , Styrofoam , card board , etc ……… . I use higher grade materials . YES it does cost more , but in most cases its not much more , and it lasts A LOT longer , so its worth the added cost .

So here is the first project , still ongoing , but far enough along to post .




Here are my building corners . I have several that aren’t shown , I will add some more pics later when it is all done , and I finally use them in a game on a bigger board .

The material is PVC FOAM BOARD , yes that’s PVC , just like the stuff they make PVC pipes out of , but whipped into a foam , and formed into sheets of varying size and color . Prices vary , but a sheet about the same size and thickness as a regular piece of foam board goes for about $20 plus shipping .

It can be cut and carved using wood tools , or exacto knives . To speed things up I used a band saw to cut the sizes I needed , and then used exacto knives to carve the edges to get the broken effect . No 2 are alike , and most of the larger ones took about an hour and a half to make from start to finished painting .

Because its PVC , I used PVC cement to glue them together .

This stuff is STRONG , I have a corner section not shown in the pics that I used to show people , I would throw it on the ground a few times , pound it on a table , and then put a 5 pound sledge hammer head on the upper floor , to show how sturdy and stable it is . It wont buckle under the weight of heavier figs like dreadnoughts and such .

Since its PVC , this also means you can spray paint it directly , and it wont eat it up .



Here they are laid out on a section of my cutting mat .






Now with some ballast rubble super glued on that I got from the hobby store , ready for priming .






Here are a few I did with wider base sections , and bigger corners .




And a few that I have painted and dry brushed , ready for sealing .







For special house rules :

Any square determined to be inside a ruined building gives soft cover to any unit in the square .

Any square that contacts a boarder section gives hard cover to the unit in the square , regardless of which side of the wall section the unit is on .

LOS traced through any large solid wall or corner section is considered blocked .

Multi story buildings , each story takes 2 move actions to go up on level (about 3&½ inches high ) . At level 2 , they can draw LOS over a walker .






tank traps



rather than JUST the standard tank traps , i wanted something more . i actually made these for AT-43 , but never got the chance to use them . they are made with the same method i used to make the above wall sections , but rather than wall sections , i cut platistruct I beams at 45 degree angles and glued the cut edge to the same carved style bases .

this allowed me to make linear tank traps that would be placed along boarders and corners .

for special rules , tanks and walkers cannot cross them .

you will notice the corner sections , if placed on a corner they effect that corner , keeping vehicles from doing diagonal movement through the effected corner .

infantry can pass over them normaly , and gain soft cover if in a square that is boardered by one , regardless of what side the shot comes from .







here you will see the more common type of obsticle , made from plastistruct I beams gleud together . they are smaller beams than those used above . you can buy them in a variety of sizes at any train shop .









finally got to try them out today . we got a late start , so my opponent couldnt stay for a second game , but it was fun .

we used the above house rules , so there was alot of survivability . next time we do the big table , we will make the buildings smaller , probably 2X3 or 2X2 , so there will be more of them since i didnt use up all my rubble corners .

30 point game took us about an hour to play casualy , and came down to a fairly close end , luck was just as important as the tactics .

this is the set up we used :




and here is the table at the end of turn 3 :








First I will say sorry for the crappy pic quality .

So this is another of my projects . Its easy to go over board when detailing a model , over loading it with so many things that it just becomes busy and an eye sore . But details are still important , and when detailing a battle field , some times it’s the small things that add the most .

I have 12 of the old GW gothic cathedral corners that they made years ago . You can still come across them from time to time ,or order them from the archival service . I plan to do some battle in a abandoned church ruins , but I need more statuary to flesh it out .

So here is my quick and easy statue project .

Many of us are acquainted with the plastic cake decorating pillars they sell at hobby lobby and Michaels crafts . They come in a few different sizes , here are 2 of them .



I cut them off at the ends so that I have 3 pieces . Sanded the cut edge of the 2 ends and put the column in my bits box for use later .



Next I have some saintly figures . I got them from the dream blade minis game . I can recall what they were called , but you can use just about any miniature you want . If I were still in 40K I would probably use plastic space marines and some adeptus sororitas figures , maybe an inquisitor as well .



Looking at the top of the 2 ends , you can see they are slightly different sizes .



For major important figures you can make a fancier base by gluing the 2 ends back together , here are 3 possible combinations .



In order to put a fig on top , you need to cap the hole . The square tops I capped with a thick piece of plasti card cut to size . The smaller single end I capped with a slotta base . Since most of the slotabases I had had the slot , I cut thin plasti card to cover the top of that .



Here you can see them assembled and ready for painting . The cherubs were little plastic ornaments I got at the craft store .




i will use them like tank traps .


If you wanted to , this would also be a great way to make your own chess set . Make the bases this way , and add your own figs to the top .
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