Game: Storm Over Arnhem

Thread: Re: Fires without using units?

TommieSL — 2008-08-18T10:08:42+00:00

Hi Andy - I see your logic but in game terms that would be a very powerful 'free' impulse play for the Germans since they would never have to 'pass' once an area started to burn.

Thread: Re: Fires without using units?

dragonstout — 2008-08-18T01:50:49+00:00

Thanks! I thought it might make sense that, since the fires were still raging, the German player could take an impulse to roll for the +2 fire area, and mess with British units on a 1 or 2.

Thread: Re: Fires without using units?

TommieSL — 2008-08-17T23:58:21+00:00

Hi Andy.

To set fires in an area the German must have uncommitted units present and at least one unit must be selected as attempting to set the fires.

The number of uncommitted units designated by the German player for the fire-setting attempt will determine the number that must be rolled equal to or less than on the roll of one die. Engineers squads count as 'three' units in this respect.

All German units attempting to set fires become committed whether their efforts are successful or not.

Fire counter markers (+1 and +2) modify fire-setting attempts which , by definition, must have at least one uncommitted German Unit designated in the area as attempting to set the fires.

In other words, the answer to your question is... No. The German player must commit at least one unit even when there are Fire markers in an area.

Hope this helps.

Thread: Fires without using units?

dragonstout — 2008-08-16T20:25:44+00:00

This is unclear to me from reading the rules:

If there is already, say, a +2 fire token in an area, can the German player, as an impulse, "set a fire" in that area without committing any of his units, therefore being successful on a roll of 1 or 2?

Thread: Re: A Bridge Too Far

Scoobysnacks — 2008-07-21T20:05:16+00:00

blockhead wrote:

MMP is (soon) releasing Storm over Stalingrad, an even simplier version of SOA by a designer who has also done Storm over Port Arthur. It may fairly be said that once you learn this system you'll have multiple games on multiple topics at varying degrees of complexity available.

MMP has 2 other games on pre order as well. WW1 and WW2 Pacific are the topics of these games. I don't know much about the WW1 game but the WW2 is a night fight (5 turns) on Guadal Canal. The scale is tactical similar to SOA and TAC.

Thread: Re: A Bridge Too Far

Sphere — 2008-07-20T22:47:59+00:00

blockhead wrote:
Thunder at Cassino is the other AH area game...

One of them. See also Turning Point: Stalingrad and Breakout: Normandy.

Thread: Re: A Bridge Too Far

blockhead — 2008-07-20T21:16:08+00:00

Thunder at Cassino is the other AH area game, essentially same rules as SOA but more units and areas, so longer. Also a more balanced situation, both sides get to attack more often.

MMP is (soon) releasing Storm over Stalingrad, an even simplier version of SOA by a designer who has also done Storm over Port Arthur. It may fairly be said that once you learn this system you'll have multiple games on multiple topics at varying degrees of complexity available.

Thread: Re: Playing time

moss_icon — 2008-06-19T18:07:20+00:00

Any further comments on this?

Thread: Re: How Can the Brits Win?

Tom Jensen — 2008-05-13T21:36:26+00:00

I've had second thoughts about my advice: "I think it's a bad idea to put an AT gun into area 11 [The Thorn]". The German player is out of position to take area 11 on the first turn so the guns can probably get off two shots for free and then pull back into area 16 on Turn 2. If you think the Germans will place their armor adjacent to the Thorn, it would be neat to remove two armored cars before they can get off a single shot! Why let them add their firepower turn after turn --especially when they often are the point units for a firegroup? Remove them from the board as soon as possible!

Then again, I'm often paranoid about a German drive down the axis of the bridge from the north. If I was the German player who knows the British likes to place the ATs in 11, I'd used my armor to blungeon the north while his guns sit idle in the east. It might be best to keep the armored cars away from the guns and let the tanks take out the guns later in the game. And since the German can't accomplish much that first turn, it might be best to hold the armored cars in reserve until the British set-up is revealed.

Maybe what I'm saying here is that an inexperienced German player WILL place his armored cars where they can be taken out on Turn One; so place the AT guns in area 11. But if he's crafty, perhaps the guns should be placed in a less risky set-up. Also, be aware that the AT guns can be barred from withdrawing into area 16, The Meatgrinder, IF the German maintains a presence in area 15. The guns have only a movement factor of "1" so they can't withdraw into an area adjacent to one occupied by a German unit. Area 16 is too important NOT to have an AT gun there throughout the game.

It's a nifty guessing game.

Thread: Re: A Bridge Too Far

geira — 2008-05-12T23:03:43+00:00

Slotracer wrote:
I often think about if the game could be done in 1/72 scale but the buildings are too many, I think!

Why not try it in N-scale (1:160)? You can get lots of buildings from model railroad stores, and MiniFigs have an excellent range of WW2 figures in this scale:

http://www.miniaturefigurines.co.uk/Catalogue.aspx?ScaleID=1...

Thread: Re: A Bridge Too Far

Sphere — 2008-02-18T19:10:15+00:00

Slotracer wrote:
But I must say you need the Crossing variant to really enjoy the game!!

Matter of taste. I usually choose the standard game, which is two turns shorter and avoids the additional rules overhead.

Thread: Re: A Bridge Too Far

Slotracer — 2008-02-18T18:26:46+00:00

This game was my first war game ever!!
And I still own it!! Will never sell it, I LOVE it!!!
But I must say you need the Crossing variant to really enjoy the game!!
I often think about if the game could be done in 1/72 scale but the buildings are too many, I think!

Image

RayGuns — 2008-02-18T14:52:15+00:00

Full page add for the game from a GENERAL magazine.

Thread: Re: A Bridge Too Far

DJ Kuul A — 2008-02-04T22:11:18+00:00

Nice review!

Note that there's a folio edition of the game as well. It comes in a paper folder rather than a box. There are no dice included, but the rulebook features a much longer (quite a few pages) historical article.

Thread: Re: A Bridge Too Far

BradyLS — 2008-02-04T20:57:46+00:00

This is a good, medium-weight wargame. Each turn will be fraught with tough decisions. As the Germans, you have to be aggressive. As the British, you have to be patient and crafty.

Thread: Re: A Bridge Too Far

mikehibbert — 2008-02-04T20:42:57+00:00

Nice Review! My eBay copy of this turned up on the weekend, so I will be keen to get it out and have another play!

Thread: A Bridge Too Far

SatanicEssence — 2008-02-04T16:37:32+00:00

Storm Over Arnhem was designed by Courtney F. Allen and published by Avalon Hill in 1981. It is the first game to implement the "Area Impulse" system of gaming. It has, like We the People and the "Card Driven" mechanic, started a long series of games that try to improve upon the system while at the same time keeping the core mechanic the same. It is a wargame, so for those of you uninterested in that sort of thing, please move on. It is also nothing new, so many of you may know everything about the game already, and therefore are uninterested in this review. But, I imagine that if you like wargames, then even if you've played the game hundreds of times there's always time to read more about it! Also, with the ever-growing wargame community and the intense need for "beginners" wargames, I feel that this review will help to serve the purpose of pointing newcomers in the right direction, as this truly is an easy to grasp, superb game.

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Image by Torsten Meckel (metor2)
This is an image of the box front. Also, the same image is used for the front of the rulebook.

The Contents!

The game comes with all the normal bells and whistles that wargames come with: board, counters, rulebook. It might come with dice as well, but considering that the game is OOP, it would depend on whether or not your eBay seller felt like including them. I will go over each of the items in the box, in detail, so if you're more interested in gameplay and whatnot, then you can skip the next section.

The Board

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Image by Jens Hoppe (jens_hoppe)
This image shows the map at setup. Notice the German Bohlt Training units start in the outer zones, while the British start in the center with German SS Panzers spaced out in the surrounding areas.

Full of color, attitude and style, the Storm Over Arnhem board comes fully mounted and in one fold-up piece. The map is broken up into two sections:

-areas (30)
-zones (05)

Areas
The areas are separated by thick black lines and are where most of the action takes place. The areas are numbered for your convenience (1-30, duh.) The numbers in the areas are color-coded for setup reasons, making it fairly simple to get the game going. This is especially cool because I know sometimes I will forgo playing a wargame because of the long setup time. The 6 middle "areas" on the map have 1-2 victory points associated with them, and is one of only two ways of for the Germans to score points in the game. There are 6 areas just adjacent to the scoring areas that are worth points to the German player as well, but only in the 2nd and 3rd turns, therefore counters are used to mark these "areas" as valuable (so they can come of after the 3rd turn.)

Zones
Zones are labeled A-E, are rectangular in shape and surround the areas of the map. The zones represent a larger space than the areas do and therefore can contain units of both sides without combat ensuing. They are mostly used for a quick, safe, and roundabout way around to move units to the other side of the map. Reinforcements start out in zones, as well as all of the Bohlt Training Unit during the game setup.

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Image by David Mitchell (dlminsac)
This is an image of the map sans any units. You can clearly see the 5 zones surrounding the 30 areas. This is an image taken of the back off the rulebook and includes some information on historical battle landmarks that isn't on the board map. Very nice.

Other Board Items
There are a number of tables and holding boxes on the map as well, which is always helpful. Although one item I think is missing is the combat modifiers, which are referred to often when first playing. It's really not that big of a deal though, there is a fine printout that works as the player aid that should have been included in the game here:

http://boardgamegeek.com/file/download/5879/SOA_info_sheet_w...
Uploaded By: N/A

Anyways, there are two "Artillery Boxes" that hold each sides artillery counters. This seems a little extravagant for just a few counters, but its a nice thing to have nonetheless. The artillery counters are stored there before and after use, for easy reference for either player to see how many uses are left for both players. There is also the "British Reinforcements Box" that hold all the eliminated British units, as they can come back (there is another counter to use if they come back, a special "reinforcement" counter) if enough of them die in one turn. This, historically, is because of the sheer persistance of the British to quickly tend to wounds, then get back up and fight again. I thought it was a nice touch for the designer to include this. The Germans do not have this ability. The other box on the map is just a "Random Events Table" which is rolled on at the start of each to see if one side or the other gets any reinforcements. Which is not often, in my experience, and when it does happen, the max units that can come in is 3, so....yeah....

The Counters

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Image by Jim Kiraly (kiraly)
This image shows 2 British units to the left, 2 German SS Panzer units to the right, and 1 German Bohlt Training unit up top. One of the British units is a HQ unit (capable of calling in artillery.)

Each unit in the game has an attack strength/defense strength/movement allowence on it. Each counter also contains the unit's higher and lower organization, unit type, unit size. Each unit has a front and back, the front being it's "uncommited" side and the back it's "commited" side. Once a unit is used it is flipped to it's commited side to show that it can not be used again until the next turn. There are 4 different kinds of counters in the game:

- Red (British)
- Black (German)
- Gray/Blue (German)
- Fire counters (for German use)

The British
These counters represent the 1st Airborne Division that parachuted down into the mess that the game plays out. The good thing about these British units is that they are tough, tough, tough. They usually have a high defense value, making it a pain for the German player to actually eliminate them, or even cause retreat. The last game I played in I was the Germans, and I got a nice barrage of bullets from a particularly annoying group of Royal Engineers all game long. Because of their high defense values, and a series of unlucky die rolls on my part, I just seemed unable to do anything about them. Especially this one unit....I vowed to kill this one unit in particular that got cocky and decided to move into an area of mine and annoy me with his high defense value. Arrrgh! I never did kill that unit, although I did win the game. The British player only has one artillery counter.

The Germans
There are two German units in Storm Over Arnhem:

- SS Units (black)
- Bohlt Training Unit (gray/blue)

The SS units are the stronger of the two German divisions, and are the main brunt of the force, usually. They are equipped with a nice array of tanks (which I always misuse!) and a few HQ units to call in their 4 artillery counters. These units are about average in strenth/defense, in between the tough Brits and the lame Trainees. The Bohlt Training units consist of the weakest, lamest units in the game. They are good for sheer numbers and fodder, pretty much. Something my latest opponent pointed out was the irony of me believing the training units to be expendable (and treating them that way) when I myself recently joined the army and will be training soon. I agreed with him, but nonetheless threw my trainees right in into his oncoming bullets, laughing. The Germans have 4 artillery counters.

Fire Counters
These are used for when the German player starts fires in an area(s). He does this to force British units to become "commited" (flipped over) so that they can not be used this turn. I don't find myself using this too often, as it also commits the Germans units in the area who attempted to start the fire, which is just rolling against a variable number.

The Rulebook

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Image by Benjamin Kindt (bkindt)
An image of the rulebook lying atop the other game components.

The rules to Storm Over Arnhem are well written and presice, with a few examples of play for the more complex concepts. There are 9 pages (4 front and back + the back of the cover), designer's notes, German and British "Order of Battle" (explanation of each counter, 2 pages), and 2 pages of historical notes. Coming in at a total of 16 pages including the cover and back. It has a print of the map on the back for setup reasons (one player sets up on the board itself, the other player on the map on the rulebook for secrecy reasons and a simultaneous setup.) All in all, not a very long rulebook for a wargame. Or even some Euros for that matter. This is one set of rules that will not confuse or bore anybody, like some other rulebooks tend to do. As an aside, the historical and designer notes are very interesting to read in and of themselves, a nice addition.

General Gameplay
The game plays in a variable number "impulses" over the series of 8 turns. During a turn, the players switch off impulses in a IGO UGO fasion. The impulses help to break up a player's turn into a number a smaller turns, which helps with downtime (there really isn't any, excepting AP) and makes the game more tactical than strategic. On a player's turn, he chooses an area to activate and either:

- moves his units in that area to another area(s)
- shoots with his units in that area into the same or an adjacnt area(s)
- drops artillery into that area

Moving
When a player activates an area to move units, he need not move all the units, nor must he move any he chooses into the same area. Each unit has a movement allowence printed on the counter, this is the amount of movement he can spend that turn. When moving, areas and zones have a movement cost that units must spend to enter that area. The movement costs vary depending on where enemy units are at that time, and whether or not it is a "day" or "night" turn. One thing to keep in mind is that it is relatively expensive to move into areas containing enemy units. Also, when you move (or shoot with) a unit, it is flipped over to its committed side. This means it is unable to move or shoot again that turn (but it can still retreat if attacked.) This leaves the German player open to attacks as he has to move units towards and into areas containing British units, and since you cannot move and shoot, the Germans just kind of walk right into a barrage of British fire. This is where the useless Trainees come in. Fodder!

Attack!
When a player activates an area to have his units there open fire, he need not use all the units there, nor must he fire them all into the same area. Pretty much the same deal as moving. When a unit, or group of units, fire at enemies (regardless if its the same area or an adjacent one) the active player chooses to fire upon the enemies committed or uncommited units. I find I tend to fire more at uncommitted units in an attempt to prevent them from firing upon me later in the turn. Either way though, the bullets will fly. Basically, you take the attacker's highest individual units strength (that is participatin inthe attack) + 1 for each additional unit firing and compare that to the defenders lowest defense rating (in the area being attacked) + 1 if the attacker is in an adjacent area (+2 if its a night turn), then each player rolls two dice. If the attacker's totaled number is higher than the defender's, the the defender must take the difference in "casualty points". Casualty points are taken in either retreat (1 per unit retreated) or elimination (3 points for infantry, 4 for tanks.) If the defender has the higher totaled number then nothing happens. That's because of the skirmish type combat, I guess. Its a good idea to cut off retreat options so the enemy has to start killing off units instead of retreating them. After a unit has fired or retreated, it is flipped to it's committed side so it can not move or shoot again this turn.

Artillery
This works much in the same way as combat, only an HQ unit must be in an area adjacent to the activated area to "spot" and call in the artillery. Also, the area activated must be devoid of friendlies and the area containing the spotting HQ must be devoid of enemies. Compare the attack strength of the artillery counter against the weakest enemy defense in the area. Each player rolls two dice, etc, etc. This is a really fun aspect of the game. Sometimes the German player will just drop artillery after artillery into an area, preparing it for eventual invasion. It can also work as a stalling technique. Its not very effective against some of the tougher Brits though, unless the German players a'rollin' pretty lucky! Once a particular artillery counter has been used it is flipped to it's "Fired" side to show it can not be used again this turn.

Victory Points
Only the German player gains victory points throughout the game. The Victory points start at zero, and it is not until they reach 22 that the German player has won (and thats only a "Marginal" victory. Decisive victory isn't until 29 points!) 21 points is a draw, anything less is a British win. At the beginning of each turn that the German play is in control of one of the VP areas he recieves the amount of VPs printed in that area, which is between 1 and 2. These are cumunalitive. This is an interesting way to set up the victory conditions. It lets the Brits have a chance of winning by just holding on long enough to certain areas, just waiting it out until the end of turn 8. It also force the German player to make it to these areas (and clear it of Brits to take control) as fast as he can, or else he won't make it past the 21 mark on the VP track.

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Image by Smee Mew (SatanicEssence)
Image shows a pile of British counters with an HQ unit on top.

Overall Thoughts
I think that in the end Storm Over Arnhem is a fantastic game, especially for a beginner. Once you've got it down you can move onto some of the more complex Area Impulse games such as Turning Point: Stalingrad, Breakout: Normandy and Monty's Gamble: Market Garden(all OOP.) Of course, every so often you feel the need for an easier game, something that is qucik to set up and put away, something that doesn't beg at you to remember a lot of rules. Something thats just plain fun! I highly recommend Storm Over Arnhem to the general wargamer, I guess is what I am trying to say.

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metor2 — 2008-01-28T07:01:20+00:00
Game box cover in improved resolution

Thread: Re: Vassal Mod for SOA?

Slotracer — 2007-12-02T19:54:27+00:00
That would be very nice!!!
SOA was my first strategic boardgame and still one of my favourites!!!

Thread: Vassal Mod for SOA?

Dirty Harry — 2007-12-01T17:46:23+00:00
I was wondering if anyones has made a Vassal mod for SOA please? Thanks!

Thread: Re: How Can the Brits Win?

Fury — 2007-11-15T17:54:10+00:00
Rene', of course the German will ultimaley overrun the Brits, like in the real battle, but in game design terms (VPs and turn clock in this case) its nice that the rules are such the Brits can win the GAME.

P

Thread: Re: Retreat Question.

TommieSL — 2007-11-12T12:56:17+00:00
There is no problem with 'forward' retreats.
Quite permissible under the rules as written and as described, played and verified in the series replay by the very game designer himself.

There is no 'Birds of a Feather' rule.

Thread: Re: Folio vs. 1981-edition

Simon Mueller — 2007-09-11T11:17:55+00:00
I prefer the Portfolio edition, because:

• it has a great historical article, which takes up 3/4 of the rulebook.

• counters are smaller, but color-coded! As units of the same parental regiment have a bonus in combat, this makes building sets of these much easier.

• it provides chits instead of dice, which equals out luck a little. I.e. you have 1x 12&2, 2x 3&11, etc. counters (Gaussian distribution of dice results) and you draw these out of a cup.

• the game is more portable.

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Xookliba — 2007-08-31T19:20:01+00:00
Karoly Szigetvari's excellent cyberboard map

Thread: Re: How Can the Brits Win?

Slotracer — 2007-08-13T19:00:51+00:00
I don't think the Brits are suppose to win, but you should play the game twice, once as Brits and once as Germans. The one that gets the best total result is the winner.

Thread: Re: Retreat Question.

Tom Jensen — 2007-07-12T00:25:10+00:00
Retreat in SOA is tricky. Some people seem to think that ALL the retreat priorities apply at once and that the "correct" solution is the one that satisfies MOST of the conditions. Instead I think the priorities should be treated like a flowchart; if A doesn't solve the issue, you move to B, then C, etc. meanwhile you completely ignore all the priorities both higher and lower than the current level. It's as if Courtney Allen were standing at your shoulder making up the conditions as you go... while you, (with a terminal case of short term memory), forget his previous sentence; only what he's saying NOW applies.

Here's a problem about "forward retreats" which I discovered in the series replay from The General:

It's the beginning of Game Turn 2. Both Alan Moon and Donald Greenwood have tried to fire their artillery with no result. Alan [the British] occupies areas 4, 6, 7, and 16; area 5 is vacant. Donald occupies area 11 and Alan is worried that if the Germans attack area 6 from 11, they can be retreated forward into the vacant area 5! He moves a unit from area 7 into 5 to block this. Courtney Allen, the game's designer, makes this comment: "As it stands [before this move], a German unit in area 6 forced to retreat could retreat to 5. But a British unit in area 17 [creating a fourth British area surrounding area 5] would stop this just as well as one in 5." Even the game's designer gets it wrong! Because he doesn't mention that area 11 would undoubtedly contain Germans units which would "attract" the retreating troops.

The "Birds of a Feather, Flock Together" Rule:

E. Area which is already fully or partially occupied, thus requiring a futher retreat into yet another area or zone.

Courtney Allan has forgotten this rule in favor of Priority F (retreat to an area which is adjacent to the least number of enemy-occupied areas). A rule that has yet to come into force!

I don't think I'm interpreting the rules incorrectly... and it makes sense. If your morale breaks, the one thing you want to do is to high-tail it back to the safety of numbers. Also, even if area 11 were completely empty of friendly troops, the retreating Germans would fall back into familiar territory. IMO retreating troops should always retreat back to their comrades and NO forward retreats should be allowed; it's in spirit with Priority E. Rule-lawyering to create a technically correct, though unreal, situation is just wrong!

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jens_hoppe — 2007-07-10T21:37:46+00:00
The Germans are approaching!

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jens_hoppe — 2007-07-10T21:37:20+00:00
Paratroopers on the ready

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jens_hoppe — 2007-07-10T21:36:25+00:00
The British troops are set up, ready to face the coming onslaught!

Thread: Re: How Can the Brits Win?

Tom Jensen — 2007-07-06T20:31:09+00:00
Over half of that first issue is devoted to SOA. Springsteen's article is dubious because he advocates attacking the Germans in the WEST as a first-turn surprise!!! But Donald Greenwood sets things right in the second article. That issue also has The Crossing variant which is essential if you want to use the spare counters and Turns A and B... which you've already purchased in the original game. After you become really proficient at playing the British, it's hard for the Germans to win. So, if I have the time, I'll play Turns A and B to start things off. This leaves the British platoons out of position for the main assault from the east on Turn 1; The Crossing variant returns balance to the game. If you can find it, get it!

Thread: Re: How Can the Brits Win?

aplatt6227 — 2007-07-05T22:54:28+00:00
Wait, never mind. I just answered my own question by looking at the BGG description.

Thread: Re: How Can the Brits Win?

aplatt6227 — 2007-07-05T22:44:12+00:00
Thanks, Tom. I'll try out your suggestions. Although I love this game, I haven't played it for awhile and I'd like to get it back on my table. Do you happen to know which issue of the General that Don Greenwood article is in? I'd like to read the whole thing. Maybe I can find a copy on ebay.

Thread: Re: How Can the Brits Win?

Tom Jensen — 2007-07-05T20:37:21+00:00
One thing I'd like to point out is the importance of the Perimeter Reduction Bonus's. I read somewhere that these will decide the ultimate winner. That's why possession of The Thorn [11] is so vital; it HAS to fall first before any serious assaults can be targeted against 6, 7, and 16. I usually fight like heck for The Thorn and The Meatgrinder.

Yesterday, I pulled out some quotes from the authors of the original SOA article in The General:

Donald Greenwood: "That British peninsula [11] can also be likened to a thorn stuck in the unprepared German paw. ...For as long as Area 11 is British-held, Areas 6 and 7 remain a dangerous cul-de-sac which the Germans may enter only upon threat of encirclement and destruction along the banks of the Rhine."

Thomas Springsteen: "Area 16 often becomes a meatgrinder for both forces." This is why I think this area also deserves it's own nickname: The Meatgrinder. Holding these areas for as long as prudent will determine the eventual winner.

I ALWAYS lost as the British until I discovered the importance of the British firing independantly and NOT as firegroups.

Donald Greenwood: "[The British] can rarely afford to fire in platoon strength. Rather, the British need to fire as often as possible to push German units away so that they cannnot form effective firebases for the next turn. ...This fact makes British Co. HQs most valuable as sacrifice pieces [for delay]."

As Barry pointed out, sometimes it's a good idea on the first impulse to sacrifice a non-spotting HQ into the area with the main German artillery spotter. He will die ...but it may take the German so many units to free the spotter that he won't have enough units to effectively assault an adjacent area; in a sense wasting an entire German turn!

Here's my "normal" British set-up:

3 1 PLT
4 1 PLT (which in later turns I MAY move to the east!)
5 C HQ, A HQ, FdAm (the HQs to reinforce their platoons?)
7 2 PLTs
11 2 PLTs, 1 Art HQ
16 2 PLTs, 1 Art HQ, AT Gun
17 RASC PLT (move to 24?)
18 1 PLT
22 2 ENGs, 2 Trp Bs, 1 Art HQ
23 4 ENGs, B HQ, AT Gun
24 1 PLT

I think it's a bad idea to put an AT gun into The Thorn; it NEEDS to be in The Meatgrinder. And as a first move, I usually move the B HQ into area 28.

Most Germans will assault from the east OR down the axis of the bridge from north to south. This is why area 28 is important --though the British don't have enough units to try and hold it. [One experiment I'd like to try is, on the opening move, to shift nearly ALL the units in 23 to 28, in a sense creating a dangerous cul-de-sac for the Germans to enter and be destroyed. Would this work? I've never tried it... but it's such an outrageous move that it would be fun to explore! Both areas 28 and 24 would have to be strong to form the pincers.]

Isn't this a fun game? One day I'd like to try the "slapjack version"; the optional rule that says that players must make their move within 10 seconds!

Thread: Re: How Can the Brits Win?

aplatt6227 — 2007-04-30T17:05:29+00:00
Barry, that was a very detailed and helpful response, and I appreciate all the suggestions. Much of it is not too different from what I have already tried, but I will try to implement all of your suggestions together, and see if I get obtain a different outcome.

Thread: Re: How Can the Brits Win?

Slotracer — 2007-04-30T10:03:41+00:00
The reason why it is so hard for the Brits to win is because they didn't win the battle in real life. The Brits do get trapped near the bridge - even in the game - and are sitting ducks for the Germans.
Guess if you play the game, you should play once as the Brits and once as the Germans and if both games ends up with a German victory, was it a decessive or major victory. The one player that got the best result as the Brits wins!

Quote: "A lot of what I’ve mentioned above formed part of a ‘tutorial’ game I played (via CyberBoard) against a new player who had asked if I could walk them through a game."

Is this game online, PBM or what?

Thread: Re: How Can the Brits Win?

TommieSL — 2007-04-28T03:18:47+00:00
aplatt6227 wrote:
I've played this game five times - three as the British and twice as the Germans - and every time I've played, the British have been beaten, usually decisively. I love the area-impulse system, but the replayability factor goes down if nobody wants to play the British side. I suppose I could modify the victory conditions, but short of that, does anyone have any tips on a winning British strategy?

Anthony,

Don’t modify the Victory Conditions – play balance is perfect (IMO). This for two reasons. First, the games I have played have divided equally between British smash wins, German whitewashes and nail-biters, decided by the odd point. Secondly, there’s Rule 21, on determination of sides. Both players simultaneously and secretly bid for the right to command the British. If you believe the game to be biased pro-German, enter a negative bid. Highest bid gets to play the British, having ‘awarded’ the amount of his bid to the German in the shape of Victory Points.

I'd also recommend using the Optional Rule 13.8 - British ATGs remain 'hidden' until they fire, move or are the only British unit in an area.
Adds a whole 'new' dimension to the game and keeps the German guessing on how best to deploy his armour threats.

However, to answer your question more directly, how to win as the British?
Good question.

Some General pointers…

Strategy
Overall game strategy is fairly clear. The British hold twelve areas. Of these, six on the perimeter are worth points to the German if he can get into them by the end of Turn 3 whereas the central six are worth victory points each turn to the German if he controls them. To win the German requires 22 points.
The set-up rules imply that the main German effort will be made from the east where the majority of his units must start and shifting them elsewhere (can) take too long to be worth it. The few German units at the western end of the town will normally maintain a low profile for the first day. If they get too ambitious and suffer heavy casualties the British defender will be able to shift large numbers over to the east to bolster defences there. Day 1 western Germans will therefore (normally) hold and threaten, attempting to pin a defensive line in the west.
British strategy then is to hang on. Casualties among the weaker units must be accepted (and expected) at first in order to hold on to as much of the perimeter as possible (remember the turn 3 Victory Points). However, after that deadline has passed, orderly withdrawals under fire are the thing to do. You’re trading real estate and men for time, the key will be to understand and recognise the moment to end the tenacious resistance for an area and fall back to conserve enough strength to maintain a sufficient bridgehead for the required duration.

Tactics
Tactical decisions, crucial ones, begin right from the moment you start setting up. Clearly the infantry should group in threes to get the benefit of the unit integrity, this being tantamount to a +1 DRM with HQ units interspersed to satisfy the minimum stacking requirements. The Engineers prove to be the exception in that their Attack factors of 5 are just too good to be squandered in giving a miserly +1 support to each other but you are restricted on set-up. Turn 1 should therefore, if possible, see them shuffle amongst other units in order to maximise their effectiveness. Whilst the unit integrity DRM is important, the British player should place less ‘value’ on this than his German counterpart because he can rarely afford to fire in platoon strength. Rather, the British player needs to fire as often as possible to push the German units away so they cannot form effective firebases for the next turn. Aim for disruption rather than out right elimination. Remember, the German is under time pressure. Try to use it to your advantage.
Also, always remember that you are outnumbered. If you trade shots with him on a one to one basis, then you will be committing two sins. First, you will be setting up lots of your own units into committed status (lower defensive value), making it easier for him to do nasty things to them. Secondly, you will use all your units before he does, giving him several free impulses at the end of the turn in which to do just what he likes. Bide your time with pass impulses and wait to hit big any of his units which advance into your occupied areas. This way you will cause maximum disruption. Those hordes of trainees can’t keep coming at you forever (although it may feel like it!) and if you do find yourself in close combat, where possible, gang up and aim for those German Heavy Weapons units. Even your weakest units can take them out with a well timed ‘6’.
Finally, don’t be afraid to use the initiative for a re-roll. If you feel it’s warranted i.e. the probabilities are in your favour. Remember the Germans receive it anyway at the start of Turn 3 and Turn 6 so make sure you use it towards the end of turns 2 and 5, if nowhere else.

A lot of what I’ve mentioned above formed part of a ‘tutorial’ game I played (via CyberBoard) against a new player who had asked if I could walk them through a game.

What follows are excerpts from the CyberBoard log files.

There is some duplication but hopefully, you may find some of the comments useful from the perspective of how the British player should approach the game from the start. There are some references made to the game set-ups that you will not be able to follow directly but the commentary should give further insight.

I take the role of the attacking Germans.
New player is the British defender. We decided to take these particular sides because many suggest that the *novice* player should take the Brits, because their's is more of a watching brief / reactionary type action and so places the emphasis of attack on the more experienced (German) player.

I hope you find it useful. All comments are mine (as the German Player)…

CyberBoard Log File comments...
I'll try to give some comment on positions, strengths weaknesses, and options available both good and bad, as we go along. All, of course in the knowledge that they are my own opinion and not in any way deemed to be right or wrong, or indeed sound advice in its own right. Just my attempt to try to speed you along and up the steep learning curve.
«--------------------»
A few comments on set-up. Mine first...
You will see that I tend to favour a more 'conservative' set-up, keeping my armour out of harms way for the first turn. I nearly always position it so it's not adjacent to a British set-up area and any lurking ATGs. The Brit arty can be particularly devastating against the ACs also, so whilst the 6-2-8s and 6-3-10 units may on first 'appearance' seem to be the ideal recon units, they are very susceptible to HE and AP fire. The other BIG decision for the German is where to place the...10th Rec/Hzk HQ unit with its multi arty fire capability. You will see I have chosen a location next to Area 11 but have ensured it is well protected on both flanks with a healthy smattering of engineers (5-7-6s) and the heavy hitting (but fragile) 6-2-8s
«--------------------»
The rest for the Germans is pretty much a question of how to spread the Grenadiers and armour so as not to contravene the max 5x SS inf and 3x SS armour per area. All training squads go in either zones A or B so not much choice there.

Okay, now to your set-up... Mmm, very aggressive I have to say. You have very good strength North on the main roadway through to the bridge. This is not necessarily a bad thing, in fact it gets better as the game moves on and the turn track moves closer to the arrival of the Tigers. I've seen many a time when on their arrival, even though they only have 7 MFs they have made it as far as the 2VP Area 17 on their first turn. Remember they enter during the night and it only costs 3 MFs to enter an enemy occupied area during the night versus 4 MFs during the day. The trouble with having such strength in the North is that it comes with a price... slightly less strength nearer the bridge. You might find a lot of pressure applied early doors to Area 18 as that looks slightly vulnerable, especially with the western ATG up in 22. Those ACs can be round knocking on 18s door after the first turn's movement. The other point here, and I alluded to it in the comment on the German set-up is the Brit arty can be a very effective armour deterrent. It is often worth a lot more when 'held' in reserve ready to 'punish' any over enthusiastic tank commander and would prove a suitable threat with the arty HQ in area 18 to keep my ACs out of the Spotters’ sights until the guns had fired.
«--------------------»
Again, when I play the Brits I tend to be a little more 'conservative' (yes, it must be my way) placing the ATGs a little further back from the front-line in areas that come under pressure towards the mid to end game. Areas like 16, 18, even 17. You know they're going to see action, it's just a matter of time, but it does require a deal of patience and, of course it removes any possible chance of getting 'lucky' with some early shots from front-line positions if you are facing a rather aggressive German commander.
Area 11 (known as the 'Thorn' in the General Series replay article) is nearly always the scene of the first exchanges of fire. It nearly always attracts a lot of attention from the German grenadiers squads and often sees a combined arty/engineer/armour (if no ATG) assault on Turn 1 or 2. I don't think I've ever seen the Brit hold this area much beyond turn 2. So placing your ATG there might give you a 'freebie' shot against a slightly less diligent German player but more often that not it'll see little action against armour but lots of close quarter stuff with German infantry. Of course, against a different opponent you might well find this tactic successful... horses for courses I guess.
«--------------------»
On to your Impulse one move. Normally this would be something like moving a HQ unit into area 28 to stop an East -> West movement route, or more likely a HQ unit move into the German area that contains the BIG ARTY HQ (10th Rec/Hzk HQ) Why? - because HQs can't call in arty strikes when there are enemy units in the same area. Sneaky tactic that. It's been tried on me several times but I don't tend to use it too often cus I find the HQ units just get wasted. Some other alternative first impulse moves... maybe an Arty strike if there's a juicy target (unlikely) or maybe even an ATG shot at any forward armour (very unlikely). If all else fails i.e. nothing looks obvious, just PASS. It's very unlikely that the German player will ever Pass this early in the turn so you can afford to just let him make the first moves which will eventually provide some 'easier' targets for you as Committed German units move adjacent (within small arms range) and have the lower defense value because of their committed status. Don't be afraid to keep passing early on. You'll soon see a pattern emerge where the early impulses are often British passes whereas towards the end of the turn the German will start to pass and 'tempt' the Brit into ending the turn with his own pass rather than firing at all those committed Germans. Remember, it's a race against time for the Germans. The Brit is nearly always happy to see an early finish to each turn. This is one of THE major attractions about the game for me. A very clever design decision that has the length of each game turn in the hands of the players. Should I pass now or will he counter with his own pass and end the turn? - what about all those units I haven't fired yet? But once I fire them he might move his reserves in to assault etc etc.
«--------------------»

ATG re-positioning…
Moving the ATG (from Area 11) would not be a bad move if you find yourself under threat of an infantry assault but you could only move to 6 or 7 (not adjacent to enemy occupied areas) and they are not ideal locations because the armour thrust (MKIIIs) will usually follow the area 11 to 16 avenue. Ideally you want the ATG in the area the MKIIIs want to pass through so Area 11 is not a bad choice. It's just the German player has time this early in the game to be patient and wait for his infantry assaults to mop it up if it is in 11. When it comes to assaulting 16, time is not always on the Germans side and the ATG there can provide some very tough choices for the Axis as they are forced to be more aggressive with the AFVs. If given the choice of moving it to 6 or 7 I would probably go with 6 since it at least provides an 'adjacent' (+1 modifier during day/+2 at night) shot against both 11 and 16 whereas 7 only adjoins 11.
Staying put and choosing to PASS is okay. Why show your hand when you know the German has to start to move forward at some point and that will, by definition, start to give you some 'easier' targets.
«--------------------»
Okay, on to my first impulse... the German player almost always opens each move with his arty. Unlike the Brits, he is guaranteed radio contact and can call in his fire missions with absolute certainty unless of course, the Brits counter with moving in HQs to 'block'. I mentioned this in my previous note and warned against its use but that's not to say it can't prove effective. I personally don't particularly like it because I just see it as a sacrifice of manpower. Sometimes it will prove problematic for the German player because he has to commit units in the same area or adjacent to fire at the HQ to eliminate or cause it to withdraw. Again it's a matter of choice but as the Brit I prefer (if possible) to use the tactic a little later on if the German Player has 'saved' a fire mission for later use and has already committed units in the same area as the arty HQ then moving a blocker in then can give him some real serious headaches, especially toward the end of the turn when he wants to Pass but is afraid he'll lose the fire mission. Remember, they don't carry over between turns, he has to use it or lose it.
«--------------------»
Expect early casualty points from the German Arty. But how best to absorb them?

The temptation as the Brits is always to 'mimimise' the amount of units 'removed' from the area by taking the full 3 CP elimination and any remainder as retreats. Not necessarily a bad thing here but always remember the LONG GAME. You're not going to win this in the first couple of turns and Brit units become very scarce in the later stages. If you can keep them on the board by retreating rather than taking the elims then try to take the former option.
However, you have a bit of a dilemma in 11 because of the valuable ATG asset. You don't want to be retreating too many units away and leaving it even more exposed to the assault that you know is coming at some point. So what to do? HQs are normally 'good' units to eliminate because they don't have the same 'firepower' as the para squads but still absorb 3 CPs but your HQ in 11 has one of the arty radios!! so you don't really want to be taking him off the board. As soon as you remove one of the para squads you then lose the unit designation integrity bonus so there's also a price to be paid for eliminating one of those. If it was a straight 3 CPs the decision would be a little easier, 4 CPs kinda puts you between a rock and a hard place... not nice for your first Impulse against the Germans... welcome to the niceties of SoA ;o)
«--------------------»
Retreating from Area 11…
You could chose either 6 or 7, both perfectly legal, but more often than not the preferred route is back to Area 7. Here it will most likely have targets adjacent in area 11 (if the Jerries jump off this turn) or, more likely, in Area 8. Always a prime spot for a full Company of training squads during the first turn movement impulses.
Units so retreated won't be able to fire this turn but next turn (remember all committed units are flipped at the end of each turn) will be ready and able to start to pick off any units that have ventured into and managed to stay around 8 and 11. Area 6 wouldn't have been a bad move but the Front line of defense along the eastern riverbank is area 7 so make the Germans pay heavy for it's occupancy.
«--------------------»
Interestingly enough, there is an opening 'Gambit' set-up (article printed in the General - I have a copy somewhere, that suggest leaving area 7 unoccupied during the British set-up thereby enticing the Germans into 7 on Turn 1 and then closing the door behind them from 11.
Nice trap if you can spring it !!
«--------------------»
Reinforcing Area 11?…
Remember as soon as any grenadiers set foot in 11 it'll cost your units 4 MFs to enter rather than the 2 it costs beforehand.
Any units in Area 5 can be useful to replenish any retreats out of 11 but they can only do so if they move before the Germans, again because of the increase cost to enter an enemy occupied area. However, if you move them too early then they'll sit in 11 as committed units i.e Defense value 3 and likely get shot to sh#t by any grenadiers in 15, 12 and 10.
Remember (and i know I'm going to repeat myself here) do not be afraid to PASS. It's much too early in the turn for the German to be meeting your pass with his own since he still has so much to do. Why offer him 'easier' targets when you know he will spend a good few more impulses firing to soften your front-line defense and then moving up his reserves.
I know it's difficult to resist the temptation to be 'doing something', especially when it's a new game and you're keen to get in amongst, but the best advice I can give for a new British Player Turn 1 is... DO NOTHING... keep PASSING. Let the German fire all his arty and supporting units first. See how many of your units he displaces and how many he moves up to support or even assaults with.
If you’ve placed 2 platoons in 16 at set-up, these can be used to reinforce 11 even if Germans occupy it. You can then replace units in 16 with those further behind the main line.
«--------------------»
The Arnhem Batteries
Don't over-estimate their effectiveness. Against uncommitted units they are attacking at -1 (AF6 v DF7) and will often cause more psychological rather than actual damage. Having said that, you wouldn't want to commit any units unnecessarily in 2, 3 or 4 since that -1 would reverse to +2 (AF6 v DF4).
«--------------------»
One last point, don't forget if you get a really BAD roll against you, you can always ask for a re-roll at the cost of the 'Advantage'. My advice, don't do it unless it's a real duzie roll against you or it's toward one of the turns where it passes to the German anyway (Turns 3 and 6 - hence the small German insignia on the Turn Track). Might as well use it if you’re going to lose it anyway
«--------------------»

Thread: Re: How Can the Brits Win?

elbmc1969 — 2007-04-27T00:21:47+00:00
Funny you should mention it... Check out http://www.grognard.com/ and their latest game-identification challenge.

Listing of articles: http://www.grognard.com/indexes/s985.html

Thread: How Can the Brits Win?

aplatt6227 — 2007-04-26T21:25:57+00:00
I've played this game five times - three as the British and twice as the Germans - and every time I've played, the British have been beaten, usually decisively. I love the area-impulse system, but the replayability factor goes down if nobody wants to play the British side. I suppose I could modify the victory conditions, but short of that, does anyone have any tips on a winning British strategy?

Thread: Re: Close Combat Question

WalterLai — 2006-12-12T09:20:50+00:00
Some of the rules are not well worded. What I told my group of players to make things simple:

1. Defenders form 2 lines.
2. Tanks are always placed in the 2nd line.
3. HQs may be placed in the 1st or 2nd line.
4. Units in the 2nd line may only be engaged if every unit in the 1st line is engaged.

I know, "1st line, 2nd line" doesn't sound historicaly accurate. Change it to "screeners" and "screenees" if you like. Do anything to make rules simple.

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SatanicEssence — 2006-09-19T04:40:40+00:00

Thread: Re: Close Combat Question

dr glaze et al — 2006-09-17T14:38:59+00:00
My understanding is that if the defender's infantry is EQUAL TO OR LESS, then screening is not possible. Normal, chaotic close-combat free-for-all applies.

If the number of defending infantry EXCEEDS the attackers, then screening is possible. First the defender lines up his infantry to at least equal the total number of attackers as his 'screen'. Any leftover HQ may be put 'behind his lines' and safe from attack. Similarly armor goes back here too because it cannot screen, and also armor cannot be attacked unless all the infantry units have been assiged as targets.

So, if defender infantry outnumbers attackers, then certain targets may be off-limits. Otherwise, the attacker may choose targets as normal, and is not necessarily required to attack the HQ [though it will often be a great idea!].

Regarding the word 'attempt' I think it was just a bad choice of words. There is no random factor, either the attacker's numbers exceed the defender or not.

Thread: Close Combat Question

SatanicEssence — 2006-09-17T08:47:59+00:00
Section 9.5 states:

...armor units may only be attacked if all accompanying non-screened HQ and infantry units present are also attacked.

...a player may also "screen" one or more of his Headquarters units of his choice from Close Combat attacks provided he has at least one other infantry unit in the area for each attacking enemy unit.

But then the example states:

The German player has eight 3-5-5 infantry units, a 2-6-5 Headquarters unit, a 2-6-4 Headquarters unit, and three Mk. III tank armor units in the same area with nine British units during the Close Combat Phase. The German, with ten infantry units, may attempt to screen one of his HQ units from attack and elects to protect the Battalion Headquarters unit by putting the Company Headquarters unit in the line. The British player may only attack the nine screening infantry units. However, assume the British player had ten infantry units available. He could use the tenth one to either attack one of the German tanks, or avoid the infantry screen and attack the screened Battalion Headquarters unit.

The second part of the example seems to contradict 9.5 of the rules regarding the screened units. If the British player had 10 units, then a screen wouldn't be possible and he wouldn't be able to attack to tank, and attacking the 2nd HQ unit wouldn't be an option, but a necessity. Also, the example says that the German player may "attempt" to screen. What does this attempt consist of? I thought it was a give-in that you could screen if the req's were met. Am I missing something?

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Robrob — 2006-06-07T10:57:17+00:00
German OB

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Robrob — 2006-06-07T08:01:06+00:00
Game Box Cover

Thread: Rules

Fidel Helms — 2006-06-05T00:37:43+00:00
I'd like to have a look at the rules. I'll tip 10 GG to the first person to post them or email me a copy.

Thread: Re: Playing time

dr glaze et al — 2006-04-11T02:32:29+00:00
I played this game for the first time a month or two ago. It was our first play of this game, and first play of a area-impulse game as well. Even with generous kibbitzing and punching every counter in the game we were done in about 3 or 3 1/2 hours tops.

I'd say our next time through 2-3 hours is expected. A pair of vets could easily crank this out in much shorter than that.

Thread: Re: Playing time

Joe Casadonte — 2006-04-11T01:40:25+00:00
I played this a lot 18-20 years ago, but I haven't played it since. I definitely don't remember it taking 5 hours to play; 2-3 was more like it. At least that's what I remember......

We used to take our turns fairly quickly, one right after the other, roll some dice and on to the next impulse. Does it really take people 5 hours to play?

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Robrob — 2006-01-27T01:58:16+00:00
AH Portfolio Edition

Thread: Re: User Review

Sphere — 2006-01-24T05:48:14+00:00
Feldmarschall wrote:
The system of area movement makes the game somewhat unique - and spawned two successful successors, Turning Point: Stalingradand Breakout: Normandy.

I'm not sure if you left them out because you don't know about them, or because you don't consider them successful, but other successors would include Thunder at Cassino and Monty's Gamble: Market Garden.

Thread: Re: User Review

Frimp13 — 2006-01-23T19:09:08+00:00
Feldmarschall wrote:

On the 1-10 scale, the game's about a 4 by my estimation, and that of Avalon Hill as well.

Do you mean 4/10 on difficulty? You're not rating this game as a 4 on a scale of 10 for quality/playability, are you?

Thread: Re: Looking for AH Storm over Arnhem rules.

doclb — 2006-01-07T02:27:44+00:00
Hello,

I also have acquired a copy of the Storm Over Arnhem game. Unfortunately it does not have a copy of the game rules. Is there a location on the web where I could download a text copy of the game rules?

I don't need the rule book just a document copy of the rules so I can play the game. All the rest of the game parts appear to be in the box except the dice.

Thanks in advance for any links or help anyone can give me.

doclb

Thread: Re: Playing time

elijah234 — 2005-12-25T08:58:22+00:00
I've been looking for a good Market Garden game focusing on the 1st Airborne's fight in Arnhem itself for a long time. SOA is the closest that fit the bill. The only thing I don't like about SOA is the playing time. Been trying to find a way to shorten the playing time.

Thread: Re: Playing time

Earl_8Minus0 — 2005-12-24T13:43:44+00:00
Hi

Been a while for me as well since I last played this game as well. But one I am always willing to play due to the fact that Market Gardan holds special meaning to me. It kicked off on my birthday is all.

Anyway think of a game of Chess or Checkers maybe Checkers for this one and Chess for more along the lines of Break Out of Normany. Anyway so on to checkers. Easy game and once you know the moves and position you can play it.

Same thing happens in Arnhem as the British your the center of attention in the board hoping to keep the bad guys as far forward as you can. Each piece you move there or activate there is one you can't more to the other side or actiate later.

So a lot of thought needs to go inot your moves as if your not careful you can have your pieces jumped (Killed) one right after the other like a line of spaces on a checker board.

Great intro game to the Area Impluse system though. I would like to say if you have a good gaming friend this is one that can keep you both guessing each time you play it. Switch sides often and enjoy.

I don't have the box with me but when we got into it we would play a serious of three games switching sides and the winner was the one at the end with the most British left at the end. We played to win by the zones but our style of play was to keep the British alive as best as you could. So if you lost a zone no big deal. Just a suggestion.

Earl

Thread: Re: Playing time

Sphere — 2005-12-24T04:58:48+00:00
Complexity and playing time aren't necessarily related. Storm Over Arnhem is reasonably low complexity for a wargame, with under 10 pages of rules, but would be at the higher end of complexity if compared to Euros.

The game length is a result of having a great many decisions to make each turn. The players take turns activating and using units; the order of activation is very important, and there are a lot of units in play.

Thread: Re: Playing time

Windopaene — 2005-12-24T03:52:28+00:00
I haven't played FtF in a while, but there is a lot going on, and you really need to pay attention to what's going on all over the board before you make some of your moves. So it can take a while. Fast players could easily play it in less than 5 hours I'd wager.

Thread: Playing time

elijah234 — 2005-12-24T03:06:24+00:00
If this game is supposedly of such low complexity, why is the listed playing time at 5 hours? Is the time listed on BGG accurate? What makes this game long?

Thread: Re: Looking for AH Storm over Arnhem rules.

LordTennyson1971 — 2005-09-06T16:57:15+00:00
Thank you!! I have been waiting for a copy of this game for over a year now. I am so close to playing I can feel it.

I am hoping to get the rules today. If not I will take you up on your offer.

Thanks again!!

Thread: Re: Looking for AH Storm over Arnhem rules.

wargamer66 — 2005-09-06T16:38:08+00:00
If nobody has emailed them to you by tomorrow, let me know via geek mail and I will burn a copy and mail them.

Thread: Looking for AH Storm over Arnhem rules.

LordTennyson1971 — 2005-09-06T16:29:13+00:00
I just purchased a copy of Avalon Hill's Storm over Arnhem. Everything is there but the rules. I downloaded a copy from avalon hill/hasbro about a year ago but cannot find it. And Avalon Hill no longer posts old rules. Can anyone please help me.

LordTennyson

Thread: Re: Defence factor considerations.

Windopaene — 2005-07-30T06:50:39+00:00
Don Greenwood and Courtney Allen talk about this pretty extensively in the General issue that came out when the game came out, and the obvious fact that the lower unit generally provides more factors to take as casualties outweighs the additional -1 you usually get. Now if the weaker unit is tow less than the stronger, then it does start to have an impact.

But it sure feels good to attack those german training companies with a 2 defense.

It tweaked out enough people that by Breakout: Normandy, they changed the rule to allow the defender to pick the unit that will use its defense factor...