Game: Dreamblade

Thread: Re: Drafting and other casual play suggestions?

matthewjhoskins — 2008-08-29T00:52:00+00:00

Jowjow wrote:
Aren't the bands normally 16? It's been quite a while since I've played but I thought that was the case.

Constructed bands use up to 16 models. WotC developed the 12 figure warband variant for 2-pack sealed booster formats.

Dreamblade saw very little sealed play - probably because of cost. This was a true shame because the game trully shines with a small figure pool.

The original limited format required either a starter and two booster or three boosters. Either format had a $45 MSRP.

The two-booster format was launched to stimulate sales and limited play. Sadly, it was too little too late.

Thread: Re: Drafting and other casual play suggestions?

Michael Becker — 2008-08-28T17:34:49+00:00

Starters and booster boxes are ridiculously cheap in my area. I would recommend having everyone pay a small amount to cover 1 starter and 1 booster and then distribute them randomly. Each person then opens their packs and makes their 16 player warband.

Another great way to play is to put all the figures together, randomly draw x times 2 figs (where x is the number of participants). Player one gets first pick in the first pack. Go clockwise taking turns picking. The last player to pick a fig then gets a second and the order reverses. Switch the starting player so everyone gets one turn to begin until everyone has at least 20 figures each. Then everyone can create their warband and start playing.

When I did this with my group (one starter and booster per player) nobody had previously played and we all had a blast. The game is pretty easy to explain in a group setting if you have played it a few times. Just go through everything step by step with a handful of figs per side. Don't worry about special blade abilities too much yet - the simpler the better.

Dreamblade is great. One of my favorite games of the past few years. Good luck!

Michael

Thread: Re: Drafting and other casual play suggestions?

Jowjow — 2008-08-28T17:09:56+00:00

Aren't the bands normally 16? It's been quite a while since I've played but I thought that was the case.

Have tried the "grab bag" draft as a form of sealed, without being able to put graveyard back into reserves, and it's probably needless to say that you get a VERY mixed bag and often pieces that just don't work well together.

Thread: Re: Drafting and other casual play suggestions?

NetSapiens — 2008-08-28T12:03:00+00:00

The easiest draft is simply to stick your hands in the bag and grab two boosters worth of minis. form a warband of 12 units, and add the rule that once during the game, a player may put his graveyard back in his reserves.
This format was made by wizards as an alternative to standard 3-booster limited.

Then there's the mentioned: "common pool" draft, in which you place 40 mini's in a common reserve which both players spawn from. This leaves plenty of room for changes. You can make the building of the pool a draft format as well, or you can just randomly toss in 40 units.

Other ways you can have fun with limited formats:
Pick and Choose. One player makes both warbands, the other player chooses which one to play with.
Reverse format: Each player makes a warband that the other player has to play with.
Drafting: put three minis on the table, player one picks one mini, player two gets the other two. next round player two gets first pick. Repeat until both players have either two or three boosters worth, and in the case of two boosters, add the "from graveyard to reserve" rule.
Bidding draft: Each player gets 6 Dreamblade dice with the number 3 showing. Grab a mini and start bidding, removing the amount bid from the eyes. only the numbers work, not the misses or the blade.
If a mini shows up and neither player bids for it, leave it on the table, so the next bid is for all the minis currently on the table.

Enjoy

Thread: Re: Strike in an empty cell?

big__rhino — 2008-08-15T01:11:32+00:00

awesome thanks!

I was just pondering some new strategies. i love pushing and pulling other players figures, its really effective at demoralizing your opponent and controling the board.

Thread: Re: Strike in an empty cell?

jdludlow — 2008-08-14T16:34:56+00:00

When you strike, your engaged creatures may attack.

First line in the rulebook's "Strike" section.

Thread: Re: Strike in an empty cell?

Vyolynce — 2008-08-14T14:37:16+00:00

Pretty sure only engaged figures can strike, just like only unengaged figures can shift.

Thread: Re: Strike in an empty cell?

stormseeker75 — 2008-08-14T14:28:28+00:00

I don't have a rulebook in front of me, but doesn't it say something about striking only in contested cells?

Thread: Strike in an empty cell?

big__rhino — 2008-08-14T14:16:14+00:00

i'm sure i'm missing this answer in the rule book and it doesn't seem fair, but can you Strike in a cell with no enemy monsters ?

I'm thinking that if you can and you can pick the order in which you complete strikes, you could cleverly deploy units that pull other units and suck enemys right off of the cell's with conquest points.

Thread: Re: "Activate blade abilities before damage is assigned"

big__rhino — 2008-08-14T14:09:12+00:00

ryan is right. i'd also like to add that you can leave monsters out of combat. In a similar case with a monster that doesn't have the wonderful word "may," leaving the monster out of the combat is a good course of action.

Thread: Re: New Maps/Boards

Cyberchrist — 2008-08-13T23:42:20+00:00

Any rules to go with the map ?

What do the numbers on the map mean ?

Image

Capitaine Grappin — 2008-08-12T03:01:22+00:00

Kitsune

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Capitaine Grappin — 2008-08-12T03:01:08+00:00

Horned Marauder

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Capitaine Grappin — 2008-08-12T02:51:13+00:00

Pearlthorn Gargoyle

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Capitaine Grappin — 2008-08-12T02:50:26+00:00

Warlust Satyr

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Capitaine Grappin — 2008-08-12T02:49:43+00:00

Ouroboros

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Capitaine Grappin — 2008-08-12T02:42:12+00:00

Axemorph demon

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Capitaine Grappin — 2008-08-12T02:39:52+00:00

Ogrol Ragelord

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Capitaine Grappin — 2008-08-12T02:14:28+00:00

Walking Worms

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Capitaine Grappin — 2008-08-12T02:14:19+00:00

Nevret Warmaster

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Capitaine Grappin — 2008-08-12T02:12:06+00:00

The Butcher

Thread: Re: Warband makeup : trading for cheap units?

craniac — 2008-07-29T03:52:11+00:00

Thanks all, for the excellent introduction. I obviously need to spend some time with the rules. FWIW, here are the figs I picked up on Saturday:

asylum escapee
asylum escapee
Blind Spikemauler x3
beetleback mass
blight rat
bloodcut behemoth (I love this one)
boneclan hunter
chrysalis spinner
doomball
dreamblade figs
faceless stalker
freakazoid
hellshrieker
iron thug
Knight of Autumn Gate x3
knight of pain and sorrow
knight of tomorrow x2
lady of the fang
mujina
nevret screamtrooper x3
pick pick
ravencloak visionary
Skirmish Self x3
skinless
soul grue
walking worms
warlust satyr

Thread: Re: Warband makeup : trading for cheap units?

matthewjhoskins — 2008-07-28T21:48:06+00:00

Thanks Mike, Dreamblade Supreme was the Spreadsheet I was grasping for. the latest version includes "the Grid" which was developed as a tournament analysis tool in April 2007.

It is pretty handy tool( if not an entirely user friendly one )

Another good point on ties, Hav. Turn one minimum spawn is five with a potential for no spawn on turn two. Turn three and on Spawn three and two pieces come into play.

Thread: Re: Warband makeup : trading for cheap units?

SiddGames — 2008-07-28T21:39:04+00:00

On the first couple turns, the minimum spawn (if nobody rolls a 1) will be 5 because if you roll 2s, it is a tie and the only tie-breaker is turns-won, which is also tied, so 2-2 will get rerolled.

If we're thinking of the same thing, the spreadsheet is Dreamblade Supreme - it lets you keep inventory, build warbands, see some stats on your warbands and collection, etc. It even includes pics of all minis.

Thread: Re: Warband makeup : trading for cheap units?

matthewjhoskins — 2008-07-28T17:50:00+00:00

GeneSteeler wrote:
Both you and your opponant roll d6 for initiative, but you both spend the total (iirc). If either rolls a "1", no one can spend anything, so you will have a minimum of 4 points if you both roll a "2".

Have fun.

This is true. If either player rolls a one there is no spawn phase.

You will want 4 spawn creatures ( rolling double 2s turn 1 with only a 5 spawn in your reserves is no bueno ) and generally speaking three spawn and 2 spawn creatures.

General advice: build a warband that can take advantage of all possible spawn rolls.

From the Dreamblade link section:

http://ww2.wizards.com/Dreamblade/articles.aspx?doc=20071019...

This is a very good primer on Dreamblade basics.

The tournament variant forces re-rolls on init if there was no spawn phase the previous turn.

On Maxminis.com there is a good excel spreadsheet with "The Grid" utility worked into it. It is an analysis tool used to examine your warband for problems/weaknesses in your spawn point distribution. This is a fairly advanced tool. The name escapes me at the moment.

I also have some spare common/uncommon minis from Baxar's War and Chrysotic Plague. GM me if you'd like to swap.

Thread: Re: Warband makeup : trading for cheap units?

GeneSteeler — 2008-07-28T04:52:59+00:00

Both you and your opponant roll d6 for initiative, but you both spend the total (iirc). If either rolls a "1", no one can spend anything, so you will have a minimum of 4 points if you both roll a "2".

Have fun.

Thread: Warband makeup : trading for cheap units?

craniac — 2008-07-28T03:12:18+00:00

Hi,

I just scored 35 figures in a math trade and learned the bare basics of the game at a convention.

I have some dupes (trade anyone?) and I get the sense that I need some cheaper units to use in my warbands. My cheapest units right now are five pointers, which feel a little spendy given that I am rolling 1d6 for drafting points.

I have the following dupes:

2x Blind Spikemauler
2x Skirmish Self
2x Knight of Autumn Gate

I have no idea what I'm doing, but I *think* I need to trade some of these for some popcorn units. I welcome your advice in this matter, and/or trading opportunities.

I have also heard there is a variant where one rolls 2d6 for initiative.

Thanks!

update: here is my full list of figures:

asylum escapee x2
Blind Spikemauler x3
beetleback mass
blight rat
bloodcut behemoth (I love this one)
boneclan hunter
chrysalis spinner
doomball
dreamblade figs
faceless stalker
freakazoid
hellshrieker
iron thug
Knight of Autumn Gate x3
knight of pain and sorrow
knight of tomorrow x2
lady of the fang
mujina
nevret screamtrooper x3
pick pick
ravencloak visionary
Skirmish Self x3
skinless
Slaughter boots
soul grue
walking worms
warlust satyr

Thread: Re: X is the enemy of Y ?

locusshifter — 2008-07-26T14:51:45+00:00

I think it's because those factions' abilities are kind of a counter to one another. Valor has pushing and pulling of allies, while Fear has pushing and pulling of opponents.

Passion strengthens allies, while Madness either sacrifices to strengthen allies or more often weakens opponents.

I wouldn't take too much stock in it. I think had the game been able to blossom further, say for at least a few more expansions, the synergy and counterbalance would have deepened even more greatly than it had already begun to.

Thread: X is the enemy of Y ?

The Jakster — 2008-07-26T13:25:03+00:00

The rulebook states "Valor is the enemy of Fear" and vice versa.
It´s the same for "Madness is the enemy of Passion".
I own 2/3 of the base set miniatures, but found very few figures which have special capabilities against their so called enemy.
Is this mainly a fluff thing or what should I think of this from a gameplay standpoint of view?

Thread: Re: Play time?

latindog — 2008-07-08T23:57:15+00:00

My games run closer to 45 minutes and have lasted an hour.

Thread: Re: Drafting and other casual play suggestions?

Jowjow — 2008-06-08T23:52:51+00:00

Funny you mention using the minis in other games. We didn't use any statistics, but thought it'd be entertaining to use Dreamblade figures to represent some of the bosses we spawned in WoW: The Boardgame.

As far as drafting, I bought somewhere between 120 and 150 figures almost all at once and have only played maybe 4 or 5 games. I've never done an actual draft before playing as most of my opponents have either been learning the game for the first time or have played very rarely, so they just don't know the pieces well enough to be able to draft with any purpose. The games we've played have all been basically random draws, reaching into the bag and pulling out enough minis to make a warband. You can imagine that doesn't lead to much piece synergy so the games often lack any kinda strategic flow.

If I have any bitch about the game, it's that the game is not as accessible as I'd like to new players who don't have the time to invest into really learning the pieces. I tried to teach Dreamblade to a fairly experienced gamer friend who's extremely busy with life stuff generally and quickly realized there was no way I could get him into a position where he'd intuitively understand the game, with all the myriad piece abilities and combinations. There are definitely drawbacks to piece variety and collectibility, and that's one of them.

Thread: Re: Drafting and other casual play suggestions?

trawlerman — 2008-06-08T22:14:43+00:00

I picked up a full set of base commons last year for cheap and still haven't gotten around to playing.

I remember reading somewhere (I think it was in the rules), though, that a great way to play casually is to have a common pool that both players can pull pieces from during play rather than each side having their own specific warband. I like the idea.

Thread: Drafting and other casual play suggestions?

ced1106 — 2008-06-08T20:44:22+00:00

Just picked up this game.

Any suggestions for drafting? The quicker, the better, and I'm curious if anyone's thought of how to draft pieces *during* play. For example, the player who wins initiative decides whether or not to draft first and let his opponent decide whether or not to go first, or vice-versa. Or each player receives a faction and drafts from their faction as you play.

Oh, and, yeah, suggestions and stats for using these miniatures in other games! Betrayal... Arkham Horrror... HeroScape... D&D?

aka. Washu! ^O^

Thread: Re: My one concern after reading the rules

mads b. — 2008-04-29T09:47:08+00:00

I have never played in any other way than with the tournament rules. The good thing about having a spawn phase at least every other round is that if you gain an advantage early on by killing of your opponents dudes due to lucky die rolls (or just good game play), you won't neccessary keep this advantage. So even though I haven't tried it the other way 'round I'd suggest you play with the tournament rule which states that you can't have two no-spawn rounds in a row.

m

Thread: Re: "Activate blade abilities before damage is assigned"

Rynunes — 2008-04-14T20:10:05+00:00

You guys have it mostly right. However, jack of blades expel reads "you MAY move target unengaged enemy one cell." So you do activate the blade, however since you MAY move the enemy you can opt not to. Then you apply damage and you get your kill.

Cheers.

Thread: Re: "Activate blade abilities before damage is assigned"

Jack Squat — 2008-04-14T16:16:36+00:00

That's right. You have to assign the blade, so in this example, you have no choice but to expel your enemy.

Thread: Re: "Activate blade abilities before damage is assigned"

stormseeker75 — 2008-04-14T16:14:17+00:00

That sounds right. Thats why you need to pair up creatures as best as possible.

Thread: "Activate blade abilities before damage is assigned"

The Jakster — 2008-04-14T15:33:27+00:00

I´m I understanding the rules right in this example:

I have 1 Jack-of-Blades and some other creatures, all without blade abilities in a cell.
I have one enemy creature in the same cell and decide to strike.
I roll enough damage to destroy the enemy creature but 1 blade comes up with the damage.
I have to assigns blades, so I must assign it to my only creature with a blade ability, the Jack-of-Blades.
I activate "Expel" before damage is assigned, meaning I have to move the only engaged enemy creature one cell, thus saving it from destruction.

Thread: SoCal Dreamblade Players

Rynunes — 2008-04-11T17:48:00+00:00

In case any of you read this and didn't know, we are still having weekely tournaments every sunday at 1PM at the Realm in Brea, CA. (www.therealmgames.com). Prizes are store credit based on the amount of players. PM if you have any questions.

Thread: Re: My one concern after reading the rules

KPrickett — 2008-04-10T01:15:20+00:00

Dice don't like statistics, but on the other hand having some rounds skipped, actually addes to the game because it allow extra spawn points(killed figures) in the rounds that follow allowing some larger figures to be spawned. The rule is modified in tournament play to keep a game from taking too long. The rule for tournament is that the initiative is rerolled it 1's are rolled two round in a row.

Thread: My one concern after reading the rules

The Jakster — 2008-04-10T00:02:06+00:00

First of all, I´m a total newbie to the game with currently zero plays.
You will probably say, try the game first and see for yourself, but there is one thing I was instantly skeptical about when I read the rules.
It´s the rule that no one can spawn anything if any of the initiative dice are a 1 (except for the very first round).
This will happen statistically over 30% of the time.
Isn´t this very problematic if this happens for several successive rounds?
I read somewhere (unfortunatly I don´t remember where) that in tournament play miniatures can be spawned any other round regardless of initative dice.
Is this correct and doesn´t this make a better game?

Thread: Re: New Maps/Boards

DocStryder — 2008-04-07T13:27:06+00:00

Very cool map vornargith, thanks.

Thread: Re: New Maps/Boards

vornargith — 2008-03-27T01:40:37+00:00

Once upon a time I put together a multi-player map ... good resolution and full color. It may be available on the Wizards boards still, but I think I'll look through my archives and upload it here.

Thread: Re: Play time?

jonnylawless — 2008-03-17T23:47:47+00:00

Chad Jensen wrote:
Agreed. We can get in a half dozen games in an evening.

Time that could be spent finishing up CC:P!

Thread: Re: Play time?

Chad Jensen — 2008-03-17T18:29:57+00:00

Agreed. We can get in a half dozen games in an evening.

Thread: Re: Play time?

moldndecay — 2008-03-16T08:07:13+00:00

Our games after picking warbands usually go 20-30 min.

Thread: Play time?

jonnylawless — 2008-03-16T07:48:26+00:00

Can anyone give me an average playtime of this game assuming warbands have already been picked?

Thread: Re: Dreamblade cancelled

BoB3K — 2008-03-14T21:24:09+00:00

I know this has already been said on here, but I'll add my voice:

[I see Dreamblade at GenCon]

Dreamblade?...Ooh, looks cool...oh it's collectable and pricey. Oh, well.

..

[a year passes]

..

What, Dreamblade has been cancelled? Sweet! I'm off to order some cheap starters and maybe a box of cheap boosters off of eBay, and try it out.

[end scene]

Thread: Re: Dreamblade cancelled

nevinyrrals42 — 2008-03-10T05:58:30+00:00

Navia Dratp was such an excellent game. Maybe the name was weird, maybe you didn't like the styling, but you had to admit that the gameplay was absolutely intense.

Thread: Re: More then 2

KPrickett — 2008-02-23T00:20:14+00:00

Thanks, just what I was looking for.

Thread: Re: Which set of boosters to get?

rramstad — 2008-02-22T16:40:56+00:00

Laudwic wrote:
Really though, at the e-bay prices you should just get two starters and a case of each of the boosters and have fun.

That's precisely what I did... I ordered a few starter sets, two cases of base set boosters, and one case each of the expansions, all from Hill's Wholesale Gaming. With shipping, the entire order came to around $200. The prices these days are awfully good, as I got six cases of boosters plus a few starters for roughly the MSRP of a single case of boosters.

Thread: Re: Which set of boosters to get?

Laudwic — 2008-02-22T04:06:03+00:00

I've been able to win afew e-bay auctions recently to get into the game. Initially I got two starters and some boosters in an auction to try it out, and then I purchased one box of each booster set from the same seller for combined shipping. I'm using them to play against friends in a closed system where all the minis are mine but anyone can build a warband to play. There are plenty to go around, to put it mildly. I spent a little over $100 but its worth it. In retail prices the collection I have would have cost me over $600. I am still missing alot of rares, but I really don't mind even though I'm missing the power peices listed earlier (warcharm, unwishing well, and the drake).

The game is great, plays well. Give it a try, and, if you like it, grab the minis while e-bay prices are still good and combine shipping when you can. I like having the minis to use for the game. If you have the time and inclination, all the stats for every piece in the game is available on-line and you could easily create a chit version of the game. I'm not big on do it yourself versions of games that are in print, but, hey, this one is dead I don't see you costing the creaters when no more will be made. Really though, at the e-bay prices you should just get two starters and a case of each of the boosters and have fun.

Thread: Re: Which set of boosters to get?

rramstad — 2008-02-21T02:51:00+00:00

dragonstout wrote:
However, one problem I have with this game is that the commons are really, really common, thanks to the small set sizes: if you get a case of any set other than the base set, you'll get more of each common than you'll ever need. This is the main reason I recommend going with some of each set instead of just sticking to one or two: that way you'll get variety in the commons. If you do just go with one or two sets, though, I'd say base set and Baxar's. Not because they're more powerful, but because they're simpler, and the game is still very very fun with *RELATIVELY* simple abilities (maybe moreso, actually; less analysis-paralysis).

As for whoever said you could just print them out: you clearly haven't *seen* these minis.

These are both excellent comments. I have two young sons (currently 8 years old and 5 years old) and at some point they'll want to play, probably in a few years. The information that the base and Baxtar's are relatively straightforward certainly helps, as if I do buy this stuff, it'll probably get looked at a bit now, and squirreled away for later...

The price point on this stuff these days is low enough that buying miniatures is nothing like it would have been when the game was active. That said, having printable versions around is super helpful, even for folks with miniatures, as presumably at some point the game will be hard to find and building particular warbands may become impossible... having some nice proxies out there seems like a very good thing.

Thread: Re: Which set of boosters to get?

rramstad — 2008-02-21T02:39:01+00:00

Dorque wrote:
The first three expansions are available as pdfs on the website. (http://ww2.wizards.com/DreamBlade/Downloads.aspx) One starter pack for the dice and map, one pack of cardstock, half of a set of color ink cartridges, and you have a 3x set of everything, including rares.

Super cool suggestion. They have the base set plus the three expansions there. I've also heard (but not found it) that the unreleased expansion also gets similar treatment, somewhere... so Night Fusion appears to be the only one that wasn't released in that format.

Thread: Re: Which set of boosters to get?

Almalik — 2008-02-20T18:33:49+00:00

rramstad wrote:

I was figuring I'd need to buy two or three starter sets mostly to get spare dice and whatnot... or is that silly?

Not silly at all. If you can get the starters for cheap, its definitely nicer to have more dice and avoid picking some up and rolling again (or for each player to have their own dice if you want). I picked up second starter, and that has worked out fairly well dice-wise for me (occasionally needing to re-roll some).

Thread: Re: Which set of boosters to get?

dragonstout — 2008-02-20T07:18:59+00:00

rramstad wrote:
Any further thoughts on this topic, especially for those who are buying full cases of boosters?

It seems that most vendors have all five sets, still, but that Night Fusion often commands a bit of a premium... One vendor has the main sets at $25 per case but Night Fusion is $35.

In terms of playability, if purchasing six or so cases, would it be better to buy two cases each of three sets or to buy one case of each set and a case of starter sets... If three sets, which ones? Is a case of starter sets overkill?

Again, I'm mostly interested in playability. I don't need to have every figure in every set... but I do want to be able to make some "interesting" warbands and have the games be fun. The stuff that I buy will basically become a closed game i.e. we'll do some sort of drafting from all available pieces and then play with what we have.

Thanks in advance for any thoughts.

I would go for some of each set, like a few prior people have said. I, too, play most of my collectible games in closed systems, i.e. instead of seeking out other people who play it, I just get a bunch for myself (or convince a few other people to join me) and then divvy it up, either using preconstructed starter decks or playing sealed games. My girlfriend still makes fun of how I made her promise that we weren't gonna go crazy with Dreamblade...and now I have every single mini released (it's that great a game). Now that I've got a set, I just use a sealed generator from whichever set we want and presto, we've got a sealed game against each other (which works plenty great with this game, I've had no desire to "deckbuild").

However, one problem I have with this game is that the commons are really, really common, thanks to the small set sizes: if you get a case of any set other than the base set, you'll get more of each common than you'll ever need. This is the main reason I recommend going with some of each set instead of just sticking to one or two: that way you'll get variety in the commons. If you do just go with one or two sets, though, I'd say base set and Baxar's. Not because they're more powerful, but because they're simpler, and the game is still very very fun with *RELATIVELY* simple abilities (maybe moreso, actually; less analysis-paralysis).

As for whoever said you could just print them out: you clearly haven't *seen* these minis.

Thread: Re: Which set of boosters to get?

Dorque — 2008-02-20T06:16:22+00:00

The first three expansions are available as pdfs on the website. (http://ww2.wizards.com/DreamBlade/Downloads.aspx) One starter pack for the dice and map, one pack of cardstock, half of a set of color ink cartridges, and you have a 3x set of everything, including rares.

They don't just hand out these PnP badges to anyone, ya know.

Thread: Re: Which set of boosters to get?

rramstad — 2008-02-20T05:28:22+00:00

Almalik wrote:
If you aren't looking at strictly which sets have better figures as far as competitive play or creating certain warbands:

Well, actually, I was kind of pondering this too, which is why I was initially toying with the idea of maybe doubling up on certain expansions and skipping others entirely. The obvious problem with this is that no one seems to agree which expansions are best! Most comments indicate that the later expansions are generally more powerful (feature creep) but then many folks think Anvilborn is particularly useless except for a few key figures... and Night Fusion is more expensive than the others... which leads me back in a circle.

Thread: Re: Which set of boosters to get?

rramstad — 2008-02-20T05:25:12+00:00

Almalik wrote:
If I was to double up on any cases, it would probably be of the first set, since there are 96 figures in that set (32 rare, 32 uncommon, and 32 common).

Interesting, and similar to what I was thinking... the one nuance is that I'll probably buy a few starter sets, as well... that'll help with the uncommon and common, but not with the rares, right?

I was figuring I'd need to buy two or three starter sets mostly to get spare dice and whatnot... or is that silly?

Thread: Re: Which set of boosters to get?

Almalik — 2008-02-19T19:57:09+00:00

If you aren't looking at strictly which sets have better figures as far as competitive play or creating certain warbands:

I'd probably recommend a booster of each set before doubling up on sets. This would give you the widest variety of figures. For sets other than the starter, 1 case of boosters will give you 2 -3 of each common figure (48 total commons for 20 different figures), 1- 2 of each uncommon (24 uncommons for 20 different figures) and 12 out of the 20 rares. As far as "bang for the buck" this might be the way to go.

If I was to double up on any cases, it would probably be of the first set, since there are 96 figures in that set (32 rare, 32 uncommon, and 32 common). Night fusion is a bit pricier because it was the last set, and there may be less of it out and available? I do notice that the single rares from night fusion are a bit more expensive.

A partial list of some the most desirable figures (going by after market pricing). I am sure there are others that I forgot:

Unsated Ragedrake (Baxar's War)
Unwishing Well (Anvilborn)
Blademiller (Anvilborn)
Kendra Vale (Night Fusion)
Scarab Warcharm (base set)