Game: Dragons of Kir

Thread: Where are the Dragons?

kenjohns — 2008-07-23T18:02:17+00:00

If any game cries out for model Dragons – it is this.

Well I have been looking! With the popularity of Fantasy Games and miniature makers you would think that you would be spoilt for choice, but the problem is that, seemingly all, ‘miniature’ Dragons are, well, quite large. I managed to find some Dinosaurs, which, while DragonISH, were not really right.

Then I discover a Game call TORU which has four, looking rather like chess pieces, but again these are a little on the large size but it seemed the best so far – However I recently discovered a game called DRAGONOLOGY which has 9 and more or less the right size. I’m afraid I don’t have any knowledge of the game itself but it might almost be worth getting for the Dragons alone!

Thread: Re: 3 Way Tile Conflict Question

dove — 2008-07-01T00:07:25+00:00

Absolutely correct!

Please feel free to contact me with any further questions/discussions (byrne . dove @ gmail . com).

I noticed you have a gaming group, and Dragons of Kir is also a fun multi-player game. I believe I have posted some of the multi-player variants on this site already. If you can't find them let me know...Enjoy!

Thread: 3 Way Tile Conflict Question

sirkerry — 2008-06-29T22:12:22+00:00

We had the following situation:

blank | Lotus Pond | blank
Wind | Dragon | Lotus Pond

So what actually happens to the Dragon here?

We decided that the since the pull to the right was stronger the Dragon destroyed the Lotus Pond to it's right and the wind moved it one more square to the right.

Thread: Re: Horrible components

Fardog — 2008-06-20T15:00:54+00:00

After reading about the poor quality bits in virtually every post, I took it off my CART at Thoughthammer. Someone posted a comment about the fact that yes, they were of poor quality, but since they were small it didn't matter. That made the decision to pull it off the cart even easier. Rats, it sounded like a good game.

Thread: Re: Review: Dragons of Kir

doug_d60 — 2008-05-01T00:53:22+00:00

I have found Dragons of Kir to be an engaging game. When I was first taught how to play, it was a two player game, but a group of three of us have gotten together several times to play. Since no-one wanted to be the "odd man out" we decided to play with three tents instead of the two. This added a whole new dimension to the game - alliances.

I have played just a few two player games and I find that I keep getting drawn back to having 3 or more players in the game, for the alliances (shifting alliances...)
Just having the possibility of teaming up with someone to take out the other person is worth it; just watch your back, because you're next... if you succeed in taking out that other player, or maybe sooner.

The game play is extremely varied; I don't think I have had any two games that presented me with the same situation. Of course there are a few blank tiles included in the package, we made use of those as well...

To change game play even more, try changing the starting location of your war tent, and/or rotate the first player to move, every time the dragons move. These can change the way you play the game - sometimes dramatically.

One note for the new players, don't focus on a defense too close to your war tent, a well placed "dragon fire" tile can wreck your whole day. Instead prevent the dragons from getting close to your war tent to start with.

Overall a very entertaining game with each game being a new experience.

Oh, I keep hearing about how people don't want to buy this game because of the game pieces. Their smallish size actually allow them to stand up to abuse quite well, and you will most likely be playing inside so, their being made of light cardboard is not an issue.

-Doug

Thread: Re: David vs Goliath?

dove — 2008-04-01T20:12:37+00:00

One of the great things about this game is its malleability. If you are having a particular problem, there may be a variant for you. While we have not made many of these variants public, I urge you to experiment. Perhaps multi-player, free-for-all, alternating who goes first each round, would suit you better:

Play Order:
Turn 1: A, B, C, D
Turn 2: B, C, D, A
Turn 3: C, D, A, B
Turn 4: D, A, B, C

Add 2 bases (anything meaningful to the player will do). Using a turn marker (I use one of the blank tiles) helps. Player A starts with the turn marker. The player with the turn marker goes first (followed by the other players); moves the dragons during the movement phase; and passes the marker to the left after the dragons have moved.

In 2-player, when I am player 1 I tend to play a strong defense forcing my opponent to play mistake-free. I set up my hand and wait for an opportunity either created by an over-site, or the natural flow of the dragons. Just like Chess, Magic, and many other strategy games, going first and second is very different and requires a different strategy.

Thread: Re: David vs Goliath?

doubtofbuddha — 2008-03-20T00:08:39+00:00

I have noticed the same thing. I liked the game quite a lot at first until I found this flaw. Very disappointed.

Thread: Re: Horrible components

Talisinbear — 2008-03-11T07:47:23+00:00

any news on a component upgrade ?

Thread: Re: David vs Goliath?

balraag — 2007-12-28T23:14:58+00:00

I do not find this to be true.
I do have to adjust my strategy when playing first or second, but I win and lose in both cases. It does take some time to figure out the intricacies of strategy and the different ways the tiles can be used to take full advantage of each tile.
I like switching who goes first and second to change things up too.

Thread: Re: similar to Shogi?

GeoMan — 2007-11-29T23:21:50+00:00

It is not similar to Shogi. You start the game with 4 randomly drawn tiles. Each turn you play one tile and at the end of your turn you draw a new one randomly.

Thread: similar to Shogi?

markhu — 2007-11-29T22:10:31+00:00

Is Darter/Dragons similar to Shogi?

I'm unclear from descriptions whether playable tiles are drawn randomly, or are you free to deploy any available in your stock?

Thread: Re: Rule question: Dragon moves into influence of cloud & lo

dove — 2007-11-06T23:43:58+00:00

"The greatest influence" is in reference to the direction in which the tiles are trying to move the dragon. In example #1, the influence of the lotus is trying to move the dragon toward it (to the left) and the influence of the wind is trying to move the dragon away from it (also to the left). The left is "the direction which holds the greatest influence". So the nearest tile to the left, the lotus, is the tile which affects the dragon. This detail comes into play in example #2, in which, after the lotus petal (single direction) affects the dragon, the dragon is still under the influence of the wind and therefore the wind moves the dragon an additional space away from it (to the left). Example #3 is similar to #2 but involves a lotus flower (multi-directional) and a loop is created.

Thread: Re: Rule question: Dragon moves into influence of cloud & lotus

noisycrow — 2007-11-05T01:03:07+00:00

Example #1 is still confusing me:

dove wrote:
Example #1

[1] Three squares separate the lotus (petal or flower) and the wind (single or multi). [2] The dragon moves up into the middle square which is under the influence of both tiles. From the rules: "The nearest tile in the direction which holds the greatest influence affects the dragon". [3] The lotus is in the direction which holds the greatest influence, so it pulls the dragon one square to the left (the dragon is three squares away from the wind and is out of its range of influence).

What does "the greatest influence" mean here? Both the lotus and the wind move a dragon one space, and the dragon is exactly between them - I admit that I don't get why the lotus 'wins'. Then Example #2 and #3 flow from that - the lotus always moves first.

Image

OneEye — 2007-10-29T23:46:41+00:00

Tiles

Thread: Re: Dragon Collisions?

dove — 2007-10-25T19:19:43+00:00

ventricumbent wrote:
Hi.

Just got dragons and faced the same problem of no mention about dragon collisions.

So two same-facing dragons in the same square can't be separated by a mountain tile (missed move) played on one of them? ie, the tile affects both dragons in the square?

The Dragons Lair tile prevents all dragons, in the square it is played, from moving that turn.

Thread: Re: Dragon Collisions?

ventricumbent — 2007-10-23T21:53:51+00:00

Hi.

Just got dragons and faced the same problem of no mention about dragon collisions.

So two same-facing dragons in the same square can't be separated by a mountain tile (missed move) played on one of them? ie, the tile affects both dragons in the square?

Thread: Re: Three Rules Questions:

dove — 2007-10-14T16:23:52+00:00

Thanks Joe. Comments like yours are warming to my heart. Enjoy!

Thread: Re: Set up question ...

dove — 2007-10-14T16:22:34+00:00

Just to clear up any confusion, here is how you setup the dragons to begin a game:

"Place one dragon, facing counter-clockwise in each of the four squares marked with a diamond." (From the Rules)

The dragon in the upper right faces left (West).

The dragon in the upper left faces down (South).

The dragon in the lower left faces right (East).

The dragon in the lower right faces up (North).

All four dragons start facing in different directions.

Thread: Re: Be aware ...

fnord23 — 2007-10-11T01:44:13+00:00

I find it interesting that this company knows/cares enough to advertise on BGG, but doesn't seem to know/care enough to actually monitor the forums/posts for their game...

And I love the standard "we haven't heard any complaints" line...shades of Mayfair maintaining the same thing, even after they had the replacement rings made for the Starfarers ships. :/

Thread: Re: Be aware ...

kenrick822 — 2007-10-11T00:20:52+00:00

Hi John

good call - my email to the company was ignored - and the tents and dragons are certainly not high quality - all my gaming chums have agreed that the tent and dragons are in fact crap - and will not buy the game either - again a lost chance for some nice resin or heavy plastic or even wood would have been great and really made this game rock - the board and tiles are pretty good - what a let down !!

Ric

Thread: Re: Be aware ...

Bosco312 — 2007-10-09T20:16:59+00:00

I emailed 1iproductions with my comments and questions. I said I was avoiding buying the game since the quality of the bits was so bad, and asked about the older, wooden sets (either DoK or Darter).

This was the reply I received...

"Thank you for your interest in Dragons of Kir. It is great to hear that
it is catching attention on the shelves. I am sorry to hear that the
bits are keeping you from owning this great game. To answer your
questions: Yes Darter ( the previous incarnation of the game) did come
with hand-made wooden bits, but it is no longer in production and not
available for sale anywhere. We have moved on to larger scale production
with a German company who manufactures the game out of very high quality
cardboard. We have had no complaints from owners of the game about the
durability of the wartents or dragons. Even our demo copies which each
played 200-300 games over 4 days at GenCon Indy held up great.
Our future production plans include 2 new games which are currently in
the works.
I would also like to thank you for your feedback, we will definitely
take that into consideration for future releases.

Thanks again for your interest,
Colin"

It would be great if the BGG community would send feedback that we won't accept low quality bits and/or that we are willing to pay a reasonable amount extra for better quality bits. The email address for 1iproductions is info@1iproductions.com. You might get a faster reply if you email the rep that contacted me. That email is colin@1iproductions.com.

Thread: Re: Set up question ...

kenrick822 — 2007-10-09T15:49:24+00:00

Dave thanks - that's how we thought about it too!

Do you or anyone else feel there is an advantage to going second ?

We played several games and it seemed that going sec seemed to have a stronger advantage ??

Ric

Thread: Re: Set up question ...

skeletodoc — 2007-10-09T13:22:22+00:00

think of it as a circle and it works like this..................right upper dragon faces left, left upper faces left, right lower faces right and left lower faces right.

Thread: Set up question ...

kenrick822 — 2007-10-09T12:35:57+00:00

Hi

according to the rules you set up and Dragon anti clockwise in a square ?

perhaps some one might like to explain this to me - as hoe can something be anti clockwise in a square Please??
Ric

Thread: Re: Be aware ...

REGGY — 2007-10-09T05:25:40+00:00

Ok I found the perfect minis for this game. Unfortunately I'll have to buy 4 Dragonology boardgames and grab the Asian Lung dragons.

Thread: Re: Be aware ...

kenjohns — 2007-10-03T13:47:04+00:00

Re. TAC

Whether it has a base or not - the idea is to make it a little more substantial.

A piece of sticky label on the base will prevent the "TAC" etc. sticking to the board.

Thread: Re: Be aware ...

REGGY — 2007-10-03T05:26:55+00:00

The Dragons are designed to fold without glue or tape and they hold okay without it. Just make sure you understand that looking from underneath the piece will appear hollow (ie it does not have a flat bottom, push the little tab in first then the large tab on the opposite should push flat up inside the dragon)

Not sure if that makes sense. Still, it doesn't make the piece any less crappy! It does give you the opportunity to fill it with something though.

Aside from all that, does anyone know of some nice dragon mini's we could use instead?

Thread: Re: Be aware ...

kenjohns — 2007-10-02T14:46:39+00:00

I am also surprised by the details of the low quality - the photo's on the Geek etc. show no indication of this.

A tip which I have used in similar incidents may be of help.

Get some "Tac", (Blue; White; Green - whatever), or modeling clay/plasticine. Mold it to shape/size and then construct the card round it.
At least it stops is blowing away!!!

Thread: Variants

OneEye — 2007-09-27T21:51:16+00:00

Teams – Divide players into 2 teams. Each turn players place a tile alternating between team 1 & team 2. The dragons move after all players have placed a tile.
Limit hand size to 3 tiles.

Multi-Player – Place 1 or 2 additional wartents on the board. Players take turns placing tiles beginning with player 1.
Limit hand size to 3 tiles.

Multi-Player with 2 sets – Add 1 or 2 wartents and 1 of each tile. Players take turns placing tiles beginning with player 1.
Hand size is still 4 tiles.

Thread: Re: Horrible components

fnord23 — 2007-09-27T07:06:02+00:00

See also: http://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/1706693

For more (completely justified) bitching about the components.

They really shot themselves in the foot on this one. :/

Thread: Re: Horrible components

Talisinbear — 2007-09-27T05:33:41+00:00

yes the look is nice but all reports have the components as crappy

I wanted this game until read the comments, now its off my list

Thread: Horrible components

davidme — 2007-09-27T02:59:03+00:00

The goals and the dragons themselves are on thin cardboard that must be folded like a print-and-play game. The art and other components are just passable.

Thread: Re: Be aware ...

hlopez — 2007-09-24T18:19:58+00:00

Doh! I ahd already purchased this online by the time I read thi post. I agree the cardboard for the dragons and tents are incredibly bad and a shame too because the rules look really cool. I'm going to see if I can create some wooden tents and dragons but probably not becasue I don't know if I'll find the time to do it.

Thread: Re: Be aware ...

Hopalong — 2007-09-23T14:01:04+00:00

I agree with previous posts here that the quality of the cardstock dragons and tents, which have to be folded into shape yourself, is inexcusble and these at least should have been made of wood due to the handling that they get during the game. Blank wooden pieces on which decals need to be attached would have been preferrable to what this manuafacturer offers. Even if they are a small company, it is still inexcusable. Hurricane games who produce Mr Jack provides wooden pieces and decals and this company should at least have done the same.
Buyer beware indeed..

Thread: Re: Be aware ...

karlvonl — 2007-09-21T17:13:08+00:00

I agree that the dragon and war tent pieces are pretty crappy, especially compared to the quality of the tiles and board. However, just for the record, I did not find a need to glue or tape the pieces to keep them together. (I do, however, keep them in a smaller box inside the main game box so that they can't get crushed if the box gets turned upside-down. )

Thread: Re: Review: Dragons of Kir

GeoMan — 2007-09-18T20:12:24+00:00

The Dragons and Tents could at least be made of plastic or wood. The tiles are now cardboard which is much cheaper than the wooden tiles that came with the original game, so there's no excuse...

Thread: Re: Review: Dragons of Kir

dbucak — 2007-09-18T19:30:14+00:00

I believe my set with wooden pieces was $50, not $40. So it was significantly more expensive.

Thanks for the review.

Thread: Review: Dragons of Kir

Bosco312 — 2007-09-18T17:39:46+00:00

My first thought when I looked at the box was "Wow, this game looks pretty". The bits look like wood or bakelite.

My first thought when I opened the box was "Oh. Um...". The bits (dragons and war tents) are made by folding up (and in some cases gluing) woefully thin cardstock. The dragons are the bits that will be touched most often and these will not stand up to the rigors of the average kid or careless player. This currently available version of the game was previously available as a set with hand made wooden tiles and bits, and for about the same price (current is about US$32; the set with wood bits was about US$40).

The rest of the set is average. The tiles are on approx. 1/8th inch thick card stock, as is the board.

The rules are well written, but leave some unanswered questions that have apparently been answered in previous sets of rules. I'm not sure why, but it seems as if the rules included with the hand made sets were more detailed. For example, two dragons can share the same square on the board and do not affect one another. However, there is no mention of this in the rules included in the current set. They also include a quick reference card in this current set that visually illustrates how the tiles work.

Game play is, to me, a lot of fun. I think I saw that someone had described this game as somewhat like a cross between chess and RoboRally. I would agree with that. You take turns laying tiles on the board that will affect how the dragons move. Normally a dragon will move one space forward each turn. However, there are tiles that will rotate them, move them extra spaces, push them, pull them, etc.

The board has no borders, which is to say that if you go off one side of the board, you come back on the other side of the board. Some tiles have an effect on spaces beyond where the tile is placed, and as a result of the 'borderless' board, tiles can influence movement of dragons on the 'opposite' side of the board.

Each player has a base ("War Tent"). If a dragon runs into or through the space where the war tent is located, the tent is destroyed and the player loses the game. However, it is possible that a dragon (or dragons) can destroy both tents on the same turn, resulting in a draw.

A full game should take about 15 minutes, but our first few games took about 30 as we learned the tiles and figured out strategies to use. Overall a good game that would only be made better by improving the quality of the bits.

Thread: Re: Three Rules Questions:

SteadyTeddy — 2007-09-10T20:06:34+00:00

Thanks Dove. I have the new edition and the same rules that you posted. I did not know about the original rules. Thanks for clearing this up. As I posted in another thread I use the shrimp from reef encounters for the dragons and the huts from clans for the huts in this game. It works very well for me.
Thanks
Joe

Thread: Re: Three Rules Questions:

dove — 2007-09-10T18:21:18+00:00

SteadyTeddy wrote:
I am having trouble with "The count would be 4 (2+2) the direction would be down" I understand the down as both tiles are pulling down. What I would like to know is how and what the 4 (2+2) came from and what it stands for.
Thanks
Joe K.

This rule explanation for Tile Conflicts came from a prototype rules set for Dragons of Kir. A numerical value was given to proximity tiles based on their distance away from a dragon. A tile 1 square away was given a value of 2 and a tile 2 squares away was given a value of 1. When a tile conflict occurred, the value of the tile would be added to the direction in which the tile wanted to move the dragon. The nearest tile in the direction that had the greatest value would affect the dragon. In the instance above a Wind tile 1 square above the dragon would add its value (2) to the down direction. The Wildfire 1 square below the dragon would also add its value (2) to the down direction. The down direction now has a value of 4 (2+2). All other directions have a value of 0. So the nearest tile in the direction with the greatest value (the Wildfire) would affect the dragon. After much play testing we have found easier ways to resolve Tile Conflicts by using 4 simple steps.

1. Impact Tiles always have priority over Proximity Tiles.
2. The nearest Proximity Tile always has priority over other Proximity Tiles.
3. [Two] Equidistant Proximity Tiles pulling/pushing in different directions cancel each other out. This can give priority to a tile farther away.
4. Equidistant Proximity Tiles pulling/pushing in the same direction: the tile in the direction the dragon will move is activated. Check to see if the second tile is activated as a result of the movement caused by the first.

The current Rules Set for Dragons of Kir can be downloaded at www.dragonsofkir.com.

Thread: Re: Be aware ...

oculona — 2007-09-10T02:00:27+00:00

I too was going to purchase this, but after reading about the components I will not bother with it.

After this post, I looked at the promo picture close up and you can see how terrible the components are. The board doesn't even lay flat in their photo.

Goodluck,
D

Thread: Re: Be aware ...

SteadyTeddy — 2007-09-10T01:08:44+00:00

I agree with the poor tents and dragons. I use the shrimp from reef encounters for the dragons, and huts from Clans for the tents and this makes it a fun game with good bits.

Thread: Re: Be aware ...

kenrick822 — 2007-09-09T13:22:08+00:00

I took the game away with me this w/e showed all my gaming chums and they were shocked at how poor the quality of the tents and dragons are - and will not be buying this game - they will also talk to their gaming chums as well etc etc

yet the company seem strangely quite as to why they have provided such poor quality tents and dragons ???

plus they have missed out on making this game a really good table top looker as well as a nice game !!!

some one needs to be sacked in their company if they think its current manifestation is 'professional'

Ric

Ah well off to try and find some tents and dragons

Thread: Re: Be aware ...

fnord23 — 2007-09-07T09:25:04+00:00

To expand my thoughts: I've been waiting for this game to be widely available for a while now, and they had a chance to make this really quite nice.

They could have used wood, bakelite, or even faux jade (how neat would that have been?). Instead, they went with *really* bad cardboard that you have to fold, and since the dragons aren't tabbed, *glue* or tape yourself.

These are worse than the home-production version there are pictures of in the gallery.

Boo! Really poor choice, that will significantly detract from the aesthetic experience of playing the game. I would glady have paid $5 more retail for decent pieces.

Surely someone, at some point in the process, thought this might not be a good idea...why weren't they listened to?

Thread: Re: Be aware ...

fnord23 — 2007-09-07T05:10:02+00:00

The tiles and boards on the new edition are fine, and of decent quality...but the tents and dragons are, frankly, crap. No excuse for not using wood pieces for those. :/

Thread: Re: Be aware ...

Ninjabob — 2007-09-07T02:15:13+00:00

Thanks for the heads up--I WAS considering buying this game, but not with components like that. What they are doing, is encouraging a home-brew version.

Thread: Re: Be aware ...

GeoMan — 2007-09-06T17:30:00+00:00

I was also surprised by the cheap components in the new edition, considering that it costs the same as the previous handmade edition which came with wooden dragons, tiles and tents and a large vinyl chess board!

Thread: Be aware ...

kenrick822 — 2007-09-06T09:23:04+00:00

this game comes with cheap nasty thin cardboard - make them you self flat dragon and tent pieces that also need to be glued - looking at the pics on BGG - thought the dragons and tents would be at least made of plastic /wood

terrible quality especially for the price as well - must be made by the same company that makes Hasbro's board games -

I can't express just how very very disappointed I am in this game quality

shame on you guys - no excuse these days - look at Tablestars 'Herocard games systems' for example - cheap games but great quality bits games for example - I thought this new version was to be professionally made - that is one hell of a joke !

I thought this would be a great game to take to pub /cafe - but it will be too fragile and or the dragons /tents will blow away - quite frankly rubbish !!!!!

And yes I am very annoyed as there is no excuse these days for this low standard !!

Ric

Thread: Re: Three Rules Questions:

SteadyTeddy — 2007-09-05T22:08:09+00:00

I am having trouble with "The count would be 4 (2+2) the direction would be down" I understand the down as both tiles are pulling down. What I would like to know is how and what the 4 (2+2) came from and what it stands for.
Thanks
Joe K.

Thread: Re: New to Gaming

dove — 2007-07-17T17:50:11+00:00

A dragon destroys a war tent (aka Stronghold) when it "hits", or enters the same square as the war tent. A dragon does not have to end its turn in the same square as the war tent (in fact, it may continue moving after it hits the war tent). A dragon can hit the war tent head on or with its side. It is possible for a single dragon to destroy both war tents in the same turn resulting in a tie.

Image

OneEye — 2007-07-17T00:56:13+00:00

Soon to be released: Dragons Of Kir Box

Image

OneEye — 2007-07-16T23:19:49+00:00

Soon to be released: Dragons Of Kir

Thread: Re: New to Gaming

SPNSAndy — 2007-05-29T03:52:39+00:00

I had some similar questions when I played this game for the first time. It turned out to be a reasonably fun strategy game, playable in about half an hour to 45 minutes, but as you point out, that depends on figuring out the rules. The two cards inlcuded with the instructions that illustrate the effects of the various tiles helped a lot, but they didn't answer every question we had.

Based on some of the other threads in this forum, you and I aren't alone. Perhaps this can be a lesson to game designers everywhere: Have your new game playtested by some friends who've never seen it before and have only your written rules to go by (and resist the urge to teach it to them, if you're in the room at the time), then take note of what questions they ask and what they get right or wrong about gameplay and adjust the rules text accordingly.

Your games maven friend probably answered most of your questions, but in the hope that it benefits other confused players I'll post my interpretations under the assumption that I've got these things right:

How exactly does a dragon destroy a stronghold? Only nose in? Or can it be blown sideways into the stronghold?

That's a good question, actually. It never came up for us when we played. Anybody out there care to address this one?

When a dragon goes past a tile, do its claws destroy it? For that reason, can you not set a tile next to a dragon before it moves?

No. A dragon can't reach outside whatever square it's in, so tiles on adjacent squares can't be destroyed, at least not right away. A dragon only destroys a tile if it gets blown into a tile sideways, or if it makes any contact at all with an "indirect influence" tile or with the wrong side of a "direct influence" tile (say, a soldier's back instead of his shield). Also, setting a tile next to a dragon before it moves will not affect the dragon at all. The dragons always move forward one square before the tiles can influence them, so if you place a tile next to a dragon, that forward move will put the dragon out of range before the tile takes effect.

The exception to this rule is the "special tiles" (Dragon's Breath and Dragon's Lair). A special tile can only be played directly on a dragon, and it takes effect before the dragons move at all, then it is removed.

When a dragon approaches a watchfire nose first, does he get swung around to face the other way? Or does he destroy it?

If he ever makes contact with the watchfire from any angle, he destroys it. If he lands in the space next to the watchfire, he gets swung around to face 90 or 180 degrees the other way (depending on which watchfire tile it is). This also puts the dragon in a different square from the one he started in. If a dragon lands in the space next to the closed end of a U-shaped watchfire, or next to an open end of any watchfire, neither the dragon nor the watchfire is affected.

Indirect tiles are destroyed when a dragon touches them -- does this mean that every lotus will eventually be destroyed?

Not necessarily. Lotus flowers can attract dragons from up to two squares away, but the dragon only moves one square toward the flower. So if a dragon moves its one square forward and lands on a square that's two squares away from a lotus flower, it gets pulled one square towards the flower (so now it's one square away). If the dragon is facing the flower, the next time it moves it will go forward onto the flower and destroy it, but if the dragon's side is toward the flower, the next time it moves it will first move one space forward and be out of the flower's reach, so the flower will survive.

I hope I don't sound like I'm disparaging this game. I like this game. I enjoy playing it. It's just that, on several points, the instructions aren't as clear as they could be.

I hope you or someone else find this helpful.

Image

JonnyG — 2006-07-29T22:07:00+00:00

All Dragon Poses

Image

JonnyG — 2006-07-24T02:17:12+00:00

All Pieces (part 2 of 2)

Image

JonnyG — 2006-07-24T02:17:04+00:00

All Pieces (part 1 of 2)

Image

GeoMan — 2006-04-07T22:20:50+00:00

Sample tiles

Image

GeoMan — 2006-04-07T22:14:18+00:00

Contents

Image

GeoMan — 2006-04-07T22:14:12+00:00

Box