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	<title>Game: Battlecards: World Conflict, Western European Theatre</title>
	<link>http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/4745</link>
	<language>en-us</language>
	<lastBuildDate>Sat, 22 Nov 2008 11:25:26 -0600</lastBuildDate>
	<pubDate>Sat, 22 Nov 2008 11:25:26 -0600</pubDate>
	<webMaster>aldie@boardgamegeek.com</webMaster>
	<description>BoardGameGeek features information related to the board gaming hobby</description><item>
	<title>Image</title>
	<description>
		Example of player's card layout.  The Battle in the North Atlantic is about to begin.  England's ground forces are not used (face down), air and sea units are face up. &lt;br&gt;
		&lt;img src="http://images.boardgamegeek.com/images/pic360368_mt.jpg"&gt;
	</description>
	<link>http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/360368</link>
	<pubDate>2008-08-12T00:41:53+00:00</pubDate>
	<dc:creator>barteus</dc:creator>
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	<title>Image</title>
	<description>
		Example of player's card layout.  The conflict deck (top) is common to both players.  German forces:  ground, air and sea.  These are face-down until a battle is fought. &lt;br&gt;
		&lt;img src="http://images.boardgamegeek.com/images/pic360367_mt.jpg"&gt;
	</description>
	<link>http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/360367</link>
	<pubDate>2008-08-12T00:39:51+00:00</pubDate>
	<dc:creator>barteus</dc:creator>
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	<title>Image</title>
	<description>
		Expansion Pack 5 &lt;br&gt;
		&lt;img src="http://images.boardgamegeek.com/images/pic290245_mt.jpg"&gt;
	</description>
	<link>http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/290245</link>
	<pubDate>2008-01-15T08:01:37+00:00</pubDate>
	<dc:creator>buffmeister</dc:creator>
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	<title>Image</title>
	<description>
		Expansion Pack 4 &lt;br&gt;
		&lt;img src="http://images.boardgamegeek.com/images/pic290244_mt.jpg"&gt;
	</description>
	<link>http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/290244</link>
	<pubDate>2008-01-15T08:00:52+00:00</pubDate>
	<dc:creator>buffmeister</dc:creator>
</item><item>
	<title>Image</title>
	<description>
		Expansion Pack 2 &lt;br&gt;
		&lt;img src="http://images.boardgamegeek.com/images/pic290061_mt.jpg"&gt;
	</description>
	<link>http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/290061</link>
	<pubDate>2008-01-14T20:18:48+00:00</pubDate>
	<dc:creator>buffmeister</dc:creator>
</item><item>
	<title>Image</title>
	<description>
		Expansion Pack 3 &lt;br&gt;
		&lt;img src="http://images.boardgamegeek.com/images/pic290057_mt.jpg"&gt;
	</description>
	<link>http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/290057</link>
	<pubDate>2008-01-14T20:09:33+00:00</pubDate>
	<dc:creator>buffmeister</dc:creator>
</item><item>
	<title>Image</title>
	<description>
		Expansion Pack 1 &lt;br&gt;
		&lt;img src="http://images.boardgamegeek.com/images/pic290000_mt.jpg"&gt;
	</description>
	<link>http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/290000</link>
	<pubDate>2008-01-14T18:36:01+00:00</pubDate>
	<dc:creator>buffmeister</dc:creator>
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	<title>Image</title>
	<description>
		Rules Update Card &lt;br&gt;
		&lt;img src="http://images.boardgamegeek.com/images/pic289597_mt.jpg"&gt;
	</description>
	<link>http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/289597</link>
	<pubDate>2008-01-13T17:45:04+00:00</pubDate>
	<dc:creator>buffmeister</dc:creator>
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	<title>Image</title>
	<description>
		Battlecard List &lt;br&gt;
		&lt;img src="http://images.boardgamegeek.com/images/pic289596_mt.jpg"&gt;
	</description>
	<link>http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/289596</link>
	<pubDate>2008-01-13T17:44:30+00:00</pubDate>
	<dc:creator>buffmeister</dc:creator>
</item><item>
	<title>Thread: Re: User Review</title>
	<description>That was an excellent review, even if it was written 4 years ago. You answered every question I had about the game. I've been eyeing this game and now I think I'll go buy ALL of the cards. I have friends that won't play &quot;real&quot; wargames but like WWII stuff, now I'll have something to play with them.</description>
	<link>http://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/1555453#1555453</link>
	<pubDate>2007-06-16T02:56:23+00:00</pubDate>
	<dc:creator>Harkonnen13</dc:creator>
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	<title>Image</title>
	<description>
		Sample battle card &lt;br&gt;
		&lt;img src="http://images.boardgamegeek.com/images/pic202090_mt.jpg"&gt;
	</description>
	<link>http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/202090</link>
	<pubDate>2007-04-08T17:29:08+00:00</pubDate>
	<dc:creator>randywilburn</dc:creator>
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	<title>Thread: Nope, third time is NOT a charm!</title>
	<description>Had my third game of this nice little game.  (For thoughts on my first, see &lt;A target='_blank' href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/72802&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/72802&lt;/A&gt; and for my second, see Chris' report &lt;A target='_blank' href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/80900&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/80900&lt;/A&gt; )&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Well, like I said, third time was NOT a charm for me.  I lost, pretty hardcore too, I must say.&lt;br&gt;This time I taught the game to Josh, who seemed interested earlier when I brought the game out to display and spoke a few words about it.  After we had both played some other games we settled down for a teach'n'play of Battlecards.  Josh got the gist of the game quickly, not only 'cause he's a smart guy, but also because the game is pretty simple.  As a card game there is much luck.  Double the luck, actually, because you draw from your own Arsenal deck AND draw from the Conflict deck, which gets you either more forces or into a battle.  &lt;br&gt;One of the problems I had with this game earlier was that if we played to 37/8 points, it might take quite a while.  So we decided to cut the points down to 15, and continue if we wanted to.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;So off we started, and luck was not with me early on in the game.  Of the first dozen or so Conflict flips I only got two Military Buildups, while Josh got at least half a dozen.  It was nice getting a Capture card, which I used to steal an AA-gun, although I was aiming to take out Hitler.&lt;br&gt;In no time, however, Josh's forces highly outnumbered mine.  I had to concede the first battle, but it was only worth two points so I didn't mind.  I successfully took the next one, forcing Josh to retreat, but that too was only worth two points.  The next two, however, did not go too well.  I drew the Battle of Britain card, and Josh's vastly superior Luftwaffe was able to crush my RAF easily.  Only five points more and he would win! &lt;br&gt;And of course, before I could build up anymore, a five-point battle came up.  Josh was the aggressor and chose to fight it.  I was crushed, and he took the victory.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Josh enjoyed the game, and I think we'll be playing it and the other Theatres soon.  I enjoyed the game again, but maybe a 20-pointer will give me a better chance next time.  Even though I've lost, I don't mind, the game is cool.&lt;br&gt;Josh asked at the beginning of the game how one-sided it could get if one player got a bunch more Military Buildups than the other, as happened in our game.  Well all I can say is, it is very possible for the tables to turn.  We played a much shorter-than-suggested game, and that had a lot to do with it.  Like I said, if we play with more points next time it may turn out differently.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;All in all, give this game a chance, you just might like it.</description>
	<link>http://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/671338#671338</link>
	<pubDate>2005-10-25T17:17:47+00:00</pubDate>
	<dc:creator>Von Cougar</dc:creator>
</item><item>
	<title>Thread: Two players -- the British take it all!</title>
	<description>The second game (after Battle Line) to come out at the Canucks Amuck meetup on Saturday was Battlecards. Justin brought his core set with the German and British cards, which he had showed me at the last TABS CondoCon. The game seemed interesting, but I wasn't really quite sure about it prior to playing.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Justin chose to be the Germans, and he handed me the British deck. Because it was a learning game, we cut the required victory points to win down to half. Whether the game would've ended up as it did if we'd gone with the full victory points conditions, I don't know, but things went bad for the Germans right from the get-go.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Justin started and pulled cards. Unfortunately, the very first battle was the Battle of Britain. He pulled his card to attack and did rather poorly against my bomber (the only aerial unit I had in play). However, when it came time for to pull a card to see how well my bomber did, I got lucky. Justin was given little choice but to retreat, and I scored big points in the first battle.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;We continued on pulling cards. Justin got Adolph Hitler out in the first couple of turns, and after a few turns, I got Monty out. A fortunate turn of events made it so I could choose at random one of Justin's cards to be captured, and I got lucky enough to choose Hitler. In this case, instead of capturing him, Hitler is discarded. Good-bye, der fuhrer.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;This ended up helping out a fair bit, but Justin got his revenge a few turns later by eliminating Monty in a battle. However, that battle (can't remember its name) didn't go entirely as planned. Even though Justin was able to eliminate some of my units, I was able to force him to retreat, thus earning another batch of victory points.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;At this point, I only needed about five points left to claim a victory, and when the next battle was drawn, it was to the detriment of the Germans. Justin was ill-prepared for the type of operation that had been drawn, but he didn't have the luxury of retreating. I won that battle hands-down and claimed the last victory points I needed to win. The Germans got skunked. &lt;img src=&quot;http://files.boardgamegeek.com/images/smile.gif&quot; alt=&quot;:)&quot; border=&quot;0&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;I'd like to give Battlecards another try before making up my mind whether I like it or not. It wasn't a bad game, but I'm not sure if it's something that I'd want to play very often.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Chris&lt;br&gt;</description>
	<link>http://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/635964#635964</link>
	<pubDate>2005-09-26T18:21:34+00:00</pubDate>
	<dc:creator>ctalbot</dc:creator>
</item><item>
	<title>Thread: Battlecards--A Review (Western European Theatre)</title>
	<description>Battlecards is one of the newer breed of &quot;non-collectible&quot; CCGs as it were...games with very much CCG mechanics, but having all available cards included in the package.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;The first set of the game centers on the Western European Theatre, and during the game you and another player (one Axis, one Allied) will attempt to use your air, sea, and ground forces to destroy your foes and win &quot;battles&quot;.  Score a certain number of points via battle, and you will be declared the victor!&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;b&gt;Components&lt;/b&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Battlecards are printed on very nice cardstock, in fact it's probably some of the most durable I've seen.  The decks are split up into an Allied force, an Axis force, and a central draw deck where events and battles are drawn from.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Each card has a nice image depicting either the unit or personality in question as well as stats along the left and right-hand side of the card for offense and defense, as well as text below.  The cards are very cleanly laid out and are generally easy to read, and if you are a fan of this era of warfare you will be quite pleased just to browse over the images.  Some are a tad grainy, but this is very likely by design or due to only having a particular photo to suit the needs of the game.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;The rulebook included with the game is a very short two-page affair covering all the basic rules of the game.  I will say that the rulebook for the game could use a little work--some of it is not quite clear, even though it is apparent this is a very simple game.  Also, the instructions aren't proofread very well, frequently using the word &quot;loose&quot; instead of &quot;lose&quot;  (as a player, you &quot;lose&quot; the game, not &quot;loose&quot; it).  There's certainly room for improvement with the rulebook included in the base set but it gets the job done.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;b&gt;Gameplay&lt;/b&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;During the game, players alternate turns drawing a card from the central deck.  This card will dictate what happens during the given game turn.  Most of the time it will be a &quot;Military Build-Up&quot; card, allowing the current player to draw and deploy X number of troops to the table.  There are three types of units--air, sea, and ground, and each are kept in separate, face-down piles so that their identity is only known by their controlling player.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Some events in the game are drawn and kept in the hand until they are used later to disrupt your opponent's plans.  Some of them are quite mild but some are hugely advantageous to draw (such as one that allows you to divide one of your opponent's stacks in two and force them to fight separately).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Lastly are &quot;battle&quot; cards that reference major battles that took place in the theatre of the game.  Several will have prerequisites for initiating--either a previous battle won or combination of battles already fought.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;When a battle is initiated, it will specify who the aggressor is, who the defender is, and what sort of units may participate.  During battle, all of the participating units are revealed, and the combat rounds are broken into four phases.  Each unit has a firing phase that they will act in.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;When a unit tries to attack another unit, you first look at the attacking unit's attack score against that particular type of unit (for example, if your bomber is attacking a Destroyer, you'd look at your bomber's attack rating vs. Sea targets).  At this time you can 'combine fire' by having other units join in to add +1 for each participating unit (but at the expense of that unit firing again in the round).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Then you look at the target unit's defense score vs. the attacker.  In the example given above, you would reference the Destroyer's defense rating vs. air attackers.  From the attack number of your ship and the defense number of the defender, you will get a &quot;range&quot; of values.  To hit the target and destroy it, you will then reveal a card from the event deck.  Each event is numbered at the top, and you use this number to determine if the attack is successful by seeing if it falls within the acceptable range of attack.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;And that's it, really.  Once a battle is done (either through destruction of one side or retreat), turns continue as normal.  Both players either play to a set point total--each battle is worth a certain number of points--or when one of the &quot;big&quot; battles is revealed from the deck, which can end the game for one player or another if the battle is not won.  The 'big' battles have fairly strict requirements for even being initiated though, so it's not possible to have bad luck right at the start and be eliminated immediately.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;b&gt;Thoughts&lt;/b&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Well, here's where the review begins to go south.  Although I really like the look of the cards and the sturdy cardstock, and find the subject matter appealing, the game itself has several flaws that prevent us from enjoying it.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;First of all, the &quot;event number&quot; mechanic (something that seemed lifted directly from Star Wars CCG and it's 'destiny' numbers) was very frustrating.  For some reason, there are a LOT of high values (19+) as well as many low ones (5 or under).  Since for most normal attacks these values will lie outside the range of a successful attack, if you try to use single units to damage other single units you will likely be in for some serious frustration.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;This means that to ensure success, you have to 'combine fire' on almost every attack.  What effect this has is that it drastically slows down the game as combat rounds turn into either completely bloodless affairs OR entire rounds where four or five units attack and destroy only one unit.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Secondly, this game is absurdly dependant on luck.  The above numerical &quot;to hit&quot; system is not something you have any control of whatsoever.  I suppose you could memorize all the numbers in the deck, take note of what has been played, and then run the odds in your head...but I'm not about to do that for what is supposed to be a 'light' combat game.  If it's supposed to be heavier, then it would have terrain, weather, e.t.c.  &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Instead, you have units that honestly are only differentiated by attack values and their &quot;type&quot;.  Battleships versus Bombers never actually feels like a battle at sea whatsoever, only a unit or three combining numbers and revealing a value to see if they hit something.  And maddeningly you can combine fire with every unit you have and still draw a &quot;25&quot; (most of the time will still be a complete miss).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;The luck continues into the drawing of the event cards.  The &quot;Military Buildup&quot; cards are completely luck-based, meaning you can have a fistful of cards and not draw a card allowing you to deploy your units, all the while your opponent is merrily drawing and slapping down more and more troops to overrun you with.  Thankfully, you can &quot;emergency deploy&quot; your hand under certain circumstances, which we have done every time (and cannot find a reason not to do so--in fact, the mechanic seems to have been put in place to make up for abyssmal runs of luck the game is prone to).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;So, you've got a card game with tons of luck....it should play quickly, right?  Think again.  Our three games played, none of them finished in less than an hour and a half, and one we quit after nearly two hours of play.  And it's not a fun &quot;endgame&quot; either, as once you are decimated in one big battle, you are just scraping by until you get your butt kicked in the next one as points....slowly...accumlate.  (In a game where you are playing to 30+ points, spending five-ten minutes on a battle that's only worth 2 points seems a little out of whack).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;b&gt;The Verdict&lt;/b&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;While Battlecards tries hard, and has nice components and photos on the cards, the actual play resembles a battle very little.  The game drags on and on as you are left to the mercy of the luck of the draw far, far too often.  There are some messy timing rules when some event cards are played and revealed, and the rule book is little help on this subject.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;For what it is, the game length is too long, the luck too heavy (and this is coming from a guy who will sit down and play Risk: Godstorm!), and the base combat mechanisms broken due to the absurd range of values revealed from the combat deck.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;If you are a huge fan of WWII, and find this on clearance as I did, you   might want to pick this up.  Otherwise, there are many, many, many better two-player card games out there.  &lt;font color='#FF0033'&gt;Thumbs down.&lt;/font&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;2.0/10.0</description>
	<link>http://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/599600#599600</link>
	<pubDate>2005-08-25T15:46:04+00:00</pubDate>
	<dc:creator>franklincobb</dc:creator>
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	<title>Thread: Battlecards: Western Europe, Pt. 1</title>
	<description>Steve and I got together for some gaming, and when History of War turned out to be a relative dud, we went on to Battlecards, without the expansions.&lt;br&gt;We didn't get very far, only got to finish two small battles, but that's because we got hungry and had to order pizza, then watch a little of Enemy at the Gates.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;From what we played, I think we're both going to enjoy this game.  As a whole, the game goes quite smoothly and easily.  You just flip a card, and do what it says (buildup, play, keep or battle).  Early on I got A LOT of the Military Buildup cards, while Steve got very few.  What the evil man DID get was a couple of Industrial Strength cards, and stopped me from deploying a couple of times.  Not nice at all, Steve.  You will surely pay for that.&lt;br&gt;However, when it came to the battles, things were a little different.  The first battle we chose to fight was the (Allied) Invasion of Syria and Lebanon.  I, as the Allies, forced Steve to retreat.  He didn't worry much, though, as it was worth only two Victory Points and was not a prerequisite for anything.  So on we went, until the Battle for the Baltic Sea came up.  We knew we were going to eat soon, and so were going to cut the game short, so Steve decided he would go for the goal and we duked it out.  As the aggressor he fired first, which is great because you can knock out enemy units without retaliation.  As well, since firing works in phases (artillery/sea, air, light- and medium tanks/some other ground, and heavy tanks/infantry), you can knock out units from later phases which often helps save your butt in the next combat round.  Well, we had a go, and the battle went back and forth.  At one point he was kicking butt, but with a couple of vital misses my heavy units, especially a large battleship, were able to retaliate hardcore.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;We had to stop the game, but we are looking forward to another quite soon (very possibly this Saturday).  So keep your eyes out for a full AAR, coming up!</description>
	<link>http://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/563970#563970</link>
	<pubDate>2005-07-22T23:52:08+00:00</pubDate>
	<dc:creator>Von Cougar</dc:creator>
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	<title>Thread: Battlecards: Western Europe, Pt. 1</title>
	<description>I posted this on my group's site, but since we haven't had a review here in a while, I figured I'd post it on BGG.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Now, I've only played four solo games (don't make fun, we all play with ourselves every now and then, to test out a new game), and only finished one, but I'm confident that I like the game.&lt;br&gt;Now, I'm used to playing card games solo, as I always had to practice my CCGs before I could play with and teach other people.&lt;br&gt;I'll bring them with me to the next meetup, so you can see what they're like.  Physically the cards are pretty funky.  Their made like playing cards, so you probably won't need card sleeves for a while.  They do tend to slip and slide around a little, but just don't tip the table and you'll be fine, I guess.  Now what one will notice right away is the VERY bright colouring.  Ground units are bright orange, air units are a nice baby blue, and naval units are a dark-but-bright green.  I actually dig the colours, although I wouldn't have minded if they differentiated the Allies from the Axis a little more than a Union Jack or swastika in the lower corner and on the back.  Something like the old Star Wars CCG, where the colours were the same for both the Imperials and the Rebels, but the Imp cards were solid, whereas the rebels had delapidated, chipped colouring.  This is especially a little troubling when you use the &quot;capture&quot; card to commandeer an enemy's unit to use as your own.  But so far, these things haven't really been a problem.  &lt;br&gt;The units are pretty neat.  there's of course a picture of the unit.  Most of them are photos from back in the day, some taken during battles it seems, while others look to be taken at outdoor museum lots.  They've also got Attack and Defense values against ground, air and sea.  Some have N/A for a certain type, i.e. some anti-infantry artillery can't hit air, etc.  Also listed on the card are the name, the phase the unit figures during (out of four), and any specials actions it can make.  These are really cool.  The majority are &quot;support&quot; features, that let's the unit sacrifice it's attack to add either 1, 2 or 3 to another unit's Attack.  Others include &quot;autokill&quot; for some ground units (instead of firing, automatically kill a unit of a certain defense rating or lower), &quot;double attack&quot; for some air units (attack twice if attacking ground and sea units), and &quot;big&quot; or &quot;heavy guns&quot; for some naval units (fire once at ground, air and naval units).  Of course there are others, for subs, carriers, big tanks, and so on, but those are the most common ones.&lt;br&gt;Aside from the various units each side gets, both also share a Conflict Card deck.  On your turn you flip the top card, and it could be: a Military Buildup card, where you draw a number of cards from your Arsenal deck (units), deploy a stated number and discard a certain number; a battle where the aggressor chooses if he wants to battle (could be land battles with ground and air, sea battles with air and sea, or certain big ones with all three (like Normandy, Op: Sea Lion, the Invasion of Germany, etc).  There are also cards that I think of as &quot;action&quot; cards that you can use now or keep for later, and do various things like sabotage or capture an enemy unit, cancel an opponent's Military Buildup card, or even &quot;counterattack&quot; and refight a battle your opponent won previously.  There are some of these cards that are a little confusing, that I'll need to check the FAQ/Forum for.  One is &quot;Divide and Conquer&quot;, which lets you choose an opponents stack of units (which are kept face down until a battle), and cut it in half, so only one half may be used in the next battle.  Now it doesn't state on the card if the stack stays split after the battle, or you rejoin them.  A couple other rules like that that I need to check up on, but no biggy.&lt;br&gt;Victory occurs in two ways, either a point-based victory, or a total victory.  For points, you need to get half of the total points available from the battles (without the expansions, 78, so you need 39).  Each battle gives you 2, 5, 8 or 10.  Also, for some battles you'll have prerequisites (for an Allied invasion of Normany, the Germans must have the &quot;Invasion of France and Belgium&quot;, and the Allies must have more &quot;Battle in the North Atlantic&quot; (out of 3)).  For a total victory, you must invade the opponents homeland (Germany or Britain), and of course these have the most prerequisites.&lt;br&gt;And lastly, before I run out of max. characters, let me say a few words on the game as a whole.&lt;br&gt;In the few one-sided games I've played, it was either VERY lopsided, or very back and forth.  Because amassing your forces requires you to draw the Military Buildup cards, you are at the mercy of luck for most of the time.  There are other games where you get your resources from other means: in History of War you get them from &quot;Base Improvement&quot; cards, and in the Star Wars CCG, you get little lightsabers on the location cards (which I thougt was awesome).  My first playtest saw the Germans stacking like an animal, and the Brits drawing NO Military Buildup cards, and when they did, the German player had the Conflict Card that canceled it.  OUCH!&lt;br&gt;But it can also go back and forth.  The last game I played, the one I finished, saw the Germans starting off really strong, winning three land battles and one sea battle, but with a crazy turn of events the Brits started coming back hardcore.  Not only did they amass a huge amount of troops, but they also &quot;counterattack&quot;ed three times to get two of the land battles and the sea battle back.  Within the just-under-two hour game, the Brits were able to invade Germany, and win the war!  It was crazy, and I can forsee some intense games, with HUGE battles (one battle saw over a dozen units each side, probably half as much as that, really).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;I really like the game, easy to learn, and can't wait to play for real, against real people &lt;img src=&quot;http://files.boardgamegeek.com/images/smile.gif&quot; alt=&quot;:)&quot; border=&quot;0&quot;&gt;</description>
	<link>http://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/549522#549522</link>
	<pubDate>2005-07-11T21:26:43+00:00</pubDate>
	<dc:creator>Von Cougar</dc:creator>
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	<title>Thread: Re:Session Report</title>
	<description>We in fact are aware of it, and have, as a result switched printing companies. The new theatres do not have this color-matching problem. As Alan notes, by the way, it is not as big a problem as you think...as a matter of fact, in the custom deck tournaments I have noticed players using reverse psychology and spiking their decks with &amp;quot;crappy cards&amp;quot; from the expansion packs to take advantage of people who always &amp;quot;capture the darker card&amp;quot; or whatever. Its actually quite amusing. But, while it doesn&amp;#039;t effect game play as much as you might think, we are a multimedia company, and card backs should be completely identical. This is why we switched printers. Our images were the same when we sent them, but apearently, the printers in Mexico (who will remain un-named) were not as thorough as the printers in India who made our lates cards (Asha Industries...quite possibly the best card printer in the world if you ask me!)&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;</description>
	<link>http://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/9781#9781</link>
	<pubDate>2003-06-20T13:52:49+00:00</pubDate>
	<dc:creator>startune</dc:creator>
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	<title>Thread: User Review</title>
	<description>In terms of complexity, games run the gamut from boggling to no-brainer.   Sometimes you want something that starts up at the turn of the key and takes you along on an easy, exhilarating, ride; other days you may want a game that is little less, really, than a Doctoral thesis in history in a box.  Most of us alternate between the antipodes on any given rainy afternoon.  When I want cruise control though, I’ll pick up a deck of cards.  Back in the day it would have been Up Front, AH’s old chestnut tactical WWII card game; today it might be a stack of ‘Battlecards: World Conflict’, newly released by DGA.&lt;br&gt;A pack of Battlecards comes  in a slim, sturdy box.  Jonathan Bjork neatly anticipated the nesting room for companion expansion sets, totaling some 255 cards per theatre.  Slip a box in a deep pocket to carry with you and you might find it to be the second most fun thing you’ll find there.&lt;br&gt;While most card games excel at portraying the give and take of tactical battle, Battlecards add a pinch of strategy to the mix.  Well designed and cleverly developed, this nifty WWII title will have you weighing the value of individual battles against that old saw about winning the damned war!   Bjork, the game’s designer, is at work rounding out the remaining theatres of war.  Out this month, in fact, are both the Pacific Theater and Russian Front, to join the currently available European Theater&lt;br&gt;While I haven’t had a chance to get my hands on a set as yet, I’ve played the European theatre with the Brits, US, Italians and Germans, and have much enjoyed the experience.  It occurred to me today that I was looking forward to the new sets, knowing full well that they would be utilizing the same game system, and I think that is a telling observation.  Because the game system takes just enough of the right gray matter to be enjoyable rather than painful or boring, and because the depiction of components, in this case individual planes, tanks ships and materiel is so engagingly rendered, players will purchase a remake of the same card game system, albeit a different theatre, if only to experience a new cast of players . . . rather like watching MacBeth for the umpteenth time.&lt;br&gt;Rules are basically straightforward and concise.  I would recommend checking out the FAQ off the DGA site though to clear up a few gray areas.  Photographs of planes, ships, and ground elements of the conflict are quite well done.  Images are black against a colored backdrop—orange, blue or green to identify air, naval and ground forces.  The anticipation of card draw to fill out deployed forces is high, and decisions about which branch of our military might to strengthen is deliciously tense.  Actual combat, once one has a working knowledge of one’s weapons (and a good memory of the small text on each card) is intuitive and fun.  Large battles with a stack of playable event cards can be a boggle, but once players have mastery of the mechanics of the game, and that shouldn’t take many playings, they will look forward to the such giant conflagrations with a more the merrier attitude.&lt;br&gt;As for strategy, I found the game device effective.  Battle cards appear at random from time to time.  Sometimes the choice to precipitate conflict is the choice of the allied, other times the axi player, sometimes either.  Picking your battles, as they say, was never more aptly applied.  Played to a preset limit of points which are won from battles, a smart player will weigh long and hard the decision to commit to the Battle of Britain or the Naval Battle in the Atlantic.&lt;br&gt;At first I thought the strategic element would be less effective and integrated than touted.  Now I look froward to the decisions about when to commit my legions as much as the actual shoot out.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Rob Lyon&lt;br&gt;</description>
	<link>http://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/9631#9631</link>
	<pubDate>2003-06-16T18:17:10+00:00</pubDate>
	<dc:creator>annica47</dc:creator>
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	<title>Thread: Session Report</title>
	<description>About two weeks ago I had Sam over for some gaming. I teach at an international school and sometimes have to be in charge of detention on Saturday. What that means is on some Saturday mornings I have to sit and watch 15-20 teens in a large cafeteria for 3 hours. They cannot talk but I can. What a great opportunity to play some games. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;So, Sam and I put up a table in the front of the cafeteria and commenced to play games for three hours as the pitiful teens watched in absolute quite. It felt like one of those Grand National chess championships with all the people watching us play in silence. We only had three hours so we brought the two best two-player games I owned, Battlecards: World Conflict, Western European and Settlers of Catan Card Game.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Battlecards: World Conflict, Western European &lt;A target='_blank' href=&quot;http://www.dgagames.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.dgagames.com/&lt;/A&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;This game being a personal favorite was an obvious choice for our first game of the morning. Unfortunately, this was not a very long game. I think Sam had the Allies and I played with the Axis. It was such a short game I can’t remember who we used. Basically after only a few minutes of play and many great card draws for me and many poor card draws for Sam we decided to call the game. I had a huge lead and at least 5 cards in each of my deployed stacks (air, sea, and land) compared to 0 to 1 in Sam’s. Although the game was far from being decided we knew it could be a long game so we opted for the game Sam would of rather played anyway. Battlecards is one of my favorite games and I look forward to playing the games designer this June when I attend Origins in Ohio. It is a simple yet well-designed card driven 2-player game. Each player has a hand of three cards and up to 3 different stacks of deployed cards in front of him face down on the table.  These cards are called Arsenal cards and are composed of 3 different types of main WWII units (air, sea, and land). On your turn you draw 1 card from a third deck called a Conflict deck. These Conflict cards either help you to build up your deployed forces or give you other options such as attacking your opponent or capturing one of his cards and using it in your stacks. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;</description>
	<link>http://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/8698#8698</link>
	<pubDate>2003-05-19T18:44:33+00:00</pubDate>
	<dc:creator>JoeSteadman</dc:creator>
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	<title>Thread: Re:User Review</title>
	<description>CaptainCaveman (#7197),&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;A very well written and honest review. Bravo. However, I would like to point out that Battleships fire in phase 1, rather than phase 2 as indicated in your article. Once again, thank you for your honest and well thought out review. Please know that we will continue to refine the rules without making them too long for a quick read.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Jonathan Bjork&lt;br&gt;Chief of Games Development&lt;br&gt;DG Associates&lt;br&gt;256-882-2008&lt;br&gt;&lt;A target='_blank' href=&quot;http://www.dgagames.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;www.dgagames.com&lt;/A&gt;</description>
	<link>http://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/7230#7230</link>
	<pubDate>2003-03-27T15:42:01+00:00</pubDate>
	<dc:creator>startune</dc:creator>
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	<title>Thread: User Review</title>
	<description>&lt;b&gt;Overview&lt;/b&gt;&lt;br&gt;Battlecards is an expandable (not collectable) card game of World War II.  DGA Games released their Western European Campaign (Great Britain vs. Germany) in 2002 and will be releasing a Pacific Theater Campaign (United States vs. Japan) shortly, with sets for the Russian Front and African Campaign to follow.  When you purchase the basic set you get three decks: a Great Britain Arsenal deck, a Germany Arsenal deck, and a set of &quot;Conflict&quot; cards.  The Arsenal cards come in three flavors: ground, air, and sea.  The Conflict cards control the events of the game. There are 5 expansion sets available for the Western European Campaign that add new Arsenal and Conflict cards. As it stands now (without additional campaigns), this is essentially a two player game (though DGA has published some variant rules to play multiplayer in a single campaign, I haven't yet tried them).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;b&gt;How the Game is Played&lt;/b&gt;&lt;br&gt;The allied and axis players start with their Arsenal decks, which can be customized with the expansion sets or even additional starter sets.  The game plays just fine with the basic set, and I'll limit my discussion to that starting configuration.  The deck of Conflict cards is shared by each player.  Each player starts by drawing 6 cards from their Arsenal and deploying three of them to the front.  The deployed Arsenal cards will be used for battles, and battles may use any combination of the ground, air, and sea forces.  The German player begins the game by drawing a Conflict card and performing the action specified. Conflict cards loosely fall into the following categories:&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;* Military Buildup - allows the player to draw cards from the Arsenal deck into his hand, deploy some of them, and discard the rest &lt;br&gt;* Retained Action - allows the player to hold onto a card for later use.  These cards can be used to disrupt the enemy's actions or give bonuses in future battles. &lt;br&gt;* Immediate Action - allows the player to immediately take an action to help their own forces or disrupt the enemy.  Examples include capturing an enemy unit or reorganizing a deployed stack of cards into two stacks (Divide &amp; Conquer) &lt;br&gt;* Battle - allows the player to enter into battle with the enemy if the pre-requisites are met and if the aggressor chooses to fight. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;The combat system is fairly straightforward but does present some twists that caused confusion initially.  Each Arsenal card has 6 numbered attributes: attack values for ground, air, and sea, and defense values for ground, air, and sea.  In addition, each arsenal card has a firing phase from 1 to 4.  Combat occurs in phases: all phase 1 units get to fire first (aggressor then defender), then phase 2, etc.  This allows, for example, anti-aircraft guns to shoot down enemy planes before they get a chance to attack.  Combat is resolved by using the Conflict deck as a random number generator.  Let's say a bomber is attempting to attack an enemy ship.  The bomber has a sea attack value of 15, while the ship has an air defense value of 5.  The attacker draws a card from the Conflict deck, and if it is greater than the defense value but less than or equal to the attack value (in this case, from 6 to 15), then the enemy ship is destroyed.  At the end of the 4 phases if either player has lost all of the Arsenal, then combat is over and the winner gets to keep the Battlecard.  If forces still remain, either player can choose to withdraw and concede victory to the other player but still retain some of their forces.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Some Arsenal cards are weak in and of themselves in combat, but provide valuable bonuses to other units.  Fighter, for example, are usually most valuable either shooting down other planes or providing support to bombers through combat bonuses (sounds like real life, yes?).  It is these capabilities that create for interesting tactical and strategic decisions in the game - there are a limited number of powerful cards, so a balance of forces is critical.  In our games we've found the battleships to be the most powerful units - they fire early in the round (phase 2) and several of them can fire up to 4 times.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Play continues until one player wins a key final battle or achieves a certain number of victory points.  This game is quite long - I play with my two sons (ages 6 and 8) and we find ourselves often stopping after 90 minutes with only half of the victory points achieved.  A full game will last from 2 to 3 hours.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;The Arsenal and Conflict decks get cycled several times during the course of a game, and it is rare for card to be eliminated from the game completely (leader assassinations are one example).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;b&gt;Quality of Components&lt;/b&gt;&lt;br&gt;The card quality is outstanding -  better than any collectable card game I've played and with outstanding photography for artwork.  I wish more card game manufacturers would go with The rules could use some work - I would prefer a small booklet version of the rules and it needs more explanation of certain characteristics of the game, particularly the special combat effects of certain cards.  The online FAQ makes up for this, but the rules should be more self-contained.  Hopefully they'll fix this with some of the upcoming expansions.  Future expansions will also come with a placemat with areas for deck and deployed forces placement as well as a rules summaryS.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;b&gt;Quality of Game Play&lt;/b&gt;&lt;br&gt;I love playing this game, and look forward to exploring the subtleties of force deployment and deck construction in future games.  There is tension created when Battlecards are drawn - should I go into combat yet?  Should I wait until I deploy more forces, potentially allowing your opponent to do the same?  There are also difficult choices in Arsenal card deployment - should I focus on balancing forces or should I beef up just my air and sea forces initially?  I played most of the Avalon Hill hex-based wargames back in the day, and I love games with WWII themes.  This is clearly a simpler game than any of those, but with the shorter playing time combined with the quality artwork and depiction of forces, I'll be playing this one for a while.  For now I'll be rating this game an 8 - it might get an even higher score with the upcoming release of the expansions and potential for strong multiplayer campaigns. &lt;br&gt;</description>
	<link>http://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/7197#7197</link>
	<pubDate>2003-03-26T14:40:51+00:00</pubDate>
	<dc:creator>CaptainCaveman</dc:creator>
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	<title>Thread: Re:Session Report</title>
	<description>Nice session report&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;I have noticed the card backs of the German expansion cards are a little darker in one expansion that I looked at but in the set of 5 expansions that I have there is no real difference between the cards. It is also questionable whether knowing a card that is sitting on your opponents Arsenal deck is an expansion card or not is really going to help you. Since the expansions consist of both new cards and duplicates of cards already in the basic set you really don't gain any info, especially since you really don't know in most cases whether that expansion card was kept in your opponents hand or discarded. It's not like in Carcassonne, for example, where the expansion tiles are all fairly unique compared to the original. In that case, if you were able to choose between an expasnion tile or an original tile, there would certainly be instances where you would want to pick one or the other. In Battlecards, the person drawing doesn't get a choice and the info provided to the opponent isn't significant enough to warrent keeping track of.</description>
	<link>http://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/6980#6980</link>
	<pubDate>2003-03-17T19:46:27+00:00</pubDate>
	<dc:creator>alkaiser</dc:creator>
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	<title>Thread: Session Report</title>
	<description>Well, here’s our first battle with all the expansion cards added in.  Both of us managed to get our leaders out within the first few turns.  The Allies had a marginal advantage on troop deployments early on causing the Germans to be cautious in initiating any hostilities.  They passed on attacking in the Atlantic twice and then also passed on invading Norway and Denmark.  Meanwhile, the Allies just kept getting good draws and increasing their military forces equally across the board.  Finally the Brits attempted an Air Raid on the German army.  The accuracy was dismal due to all the pilots still being green recruits.  Not one hit was on target from two heavy bombers, missing out the opportunity to destroy some heavy field artillery.  We lost a few fighters in the exchange and decided to withdraw and train more.  Again, the Germans pass up a chance to invade through Luxembourg and the Netherlands.  The Allies open a second front and manage to divide the German army.  Meanwhile the Germans are having their own doubts about going to war as their ability to build up on four occasions is hampered by industrial strikes.  Delayed tactics thwarts a preemptive strike by the Brits in Syria.  Finally, the Allies flex the muscle of the British navy and attack in the Baltic.  It was like shooting fish in a barrel.  The best the Germans could do was force lack of valor on the Nelson Battleship, which turned tail and ran home with some excuse of needed repairs.   The first shot taken by the Allied sub went awry when it ran into a harbor mine field sending it and the crew to the bottom.  The heavy guns supported by aircraft carriers were too much for even the lone German artillery unit.  The Germans fled the battle at the first opportunity.  Spurred on by their success in the Baltic, the Allies drew the Battle of Taranto while the German Navy was still licking its wounds in the Atlantic.  It was a massacre sending tons of quality German iron to the bottom of the sea.  The Germans were having a devil of a time building up any credible army forces.  Even one re-supply attempt was countered with an Arms Race.  They managed to get an Industrial Complex built that was quickly dispatched by another industrial strike.  They did get lucky with one V-2 rocket launch that took an Allies battleship out of the game.  Meanwhile in the process of card draws, the Allies acquired the A-bomb, and with 4 heavy bombers in the Air Force pile they were ready to use it at first opportunity.  Following a few more buildup cards, the Germans drew the Battle for Germany, and with the Battle of the Baltic behind them, the Allies were ready to strike.  Both in manpower and hardware, the Germans were outnumbered almost 3 to 1.  I played my surprise attack card and tipped my hand with a chemical warfare card as well.  The best the Germans could muster was another Loss of Valor.  They were very eager to concede the battle before any shots were fired and it was unnecessary to use the bomb.  Time for the politicians to take over.  Final score 20 nil.  &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;This match was a perfect example of how things can go from bad to worse when the cards don’t fall your way.   I think the Germans should have tried to attack more often than they did, especially early on when the forces on both sides were not as built-up.  There are some really nasty cards in the expansion sets that can really make a battle lopsided, and I’m beginning to wonder if the A-bomb card isn’t just a bit too strong.  I think it should require more prerequisites before allowing its use.  Perhaps a card like scientific research must be in possession before allowing it to be used.  In the overall scheme of the war, we know that both Germany and the USA were working hard to develop the atomic bomb.  It just doesn’t seem right that someone can use it in the very first battle of the war (in a historical context).  It does beg the question however, what would have happened if the bomb had been developed by one side or another before hostilities broke out?  If this were the case (even as in the card game) one side would gain a tremendous early advantage over the other, so I’m not totally against this card existing in the game.  Finally, it’s an expansion card, and in a friendly game, you can both agree not to use it if you like.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Overall, it was still a fun game tonight with both of us learning how to best use the new cards in the expansion sets.  Still 9's on my rating level.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;While playing tonight, my son noticed that the card backs on the expansion sets are distinctively a darker shade than the starter set.  I'm wondering if anyone else has experienced this problem.  It’s much more noticeable with the German cards.  On the Allied expansion cards, the printing is more bold making the difference less noticeable.  Of least notice was the difference on the event deck, but there is some difference there also.  This is a pet peeve of mine and I think it has no place in a card game where you might know that the next card drawn could be a good one from an expansion set.  It’s an even worse problem when viewed in the light that there are tournaments played where you are allowed to build your own decks.  The differences would be considered “marking” the cards.  This is of course no fault of the company if they didn’t notice the problem when it came back from the printer.  Maybe it was a bad print run.  Granted you (or I) could put the cards in colored “card sleeves” but this is just more cost to the consumer and some people don’t like playing with such sleeves.  The company should be made aware of this problem and should fix it prior to their release of further sets.  Cheers. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Walt.&lt;br&gt;</description>
	<link>http://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/6958#6958</link>
	<pubDate>2003-03-17T14:38:27+00:00</pubDate>
	<dc:creator>Walt Mulder</dc:creator>
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	<title>Thread: Session Report</title>
	<description>Part II (the conclusion): Well, we left off with the invasion of Belgium and France, and as I expected, it went well for the Germans.  They rolled right through both with little resistance further depleting the Allied Forces &lt;img src=&quot;http://files.boardgamegeek.com/images/sad.gif&quot; alt=&quot;:(&quot; border=&quot;0&quot;&gt;.  My best bet was to rebuild my fleet.  I emergency deployed my forces, got lucky and managed to build up a sizeable navy while dividing his ground forces.  He tried in vain to get a counter attack card and I rebuffed his Battle of Brittain with a delay.  Finally Germany had all their forces deployed pulled a counter attack going for a rematch in the North Atlantic.  I managed to get out with most of my navy but gave up the battle to get stronger. I was lucky to pull a divide card which I used on the Kriegsmarine and shortly thereafter a counter attack and figured my best gamble was to try and retake the North Atlantic against his divided fleet.  The Allies put up a good fight, but eventually fell to the German Luftwaffe.  Those bombers with double attacks wiped me out.  After that is was all but over for me.  The Battle of Brittain came up and I had nothing to delay with or fight but a measly 3 fighters.  They put up the good fight but eventually ended up in the drink.  Now the score was Germany 34, UK 7.  This score is looking almost as bad at the Buccaneer/Raider game.  It was just a matter of time before Sealion went into effect.  With no Russian front to divert the German attention, the mighty empire of Brittain finally fell.  The final battle was quite a display of forces.  I tried my best to destroy his infantry to negate the auto kill on his tigers and panthers.  The German navy managed to bombard the heck out of my front line ground forces making it easy for the bombers to mop up.  Rommel wasn't present in the final battle, but Monty was there if only for the first round of battle before his unit was wiped out by a joint sea effort.  Jetz muss ich nur Deutsch sprechen weil ich verloren habe.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Overall I love this game and can't wait to get the expansion boosters.  I would love to see the invasions of Africa and Sicily in  the expansion conflict cards, but those might be in the North Africa set that's supposed to come out.  The luck of the draw is certainly there, but if you don't plan and strike while the forces are to your advantage, you will end up with a slug fest going into the Battle for Brittain or Battle for Germany.  I guess if you're good at counting cards like in Blackjack, you could keep track of which cards have been played in a given battle to determine the odds of drawing a winning card to hit an opponent, but we just had fun with it.  The game plays out well with certain battles requiring prerequisites for others.  I haven't nearly begun to explore the use of combined forces and which units to go after first.  I think the best thing about this game is the fact that it's not collectible.  That's what will make this one a keeper for me and my son.&lt;img src=&quot;http://files.boardgamegeek.com/images/biggrin.gif&quot; alt=&quot;:D&quot; border=&quot;0&quot;&gt;  Certainly rated at 9's across the board.  Short rules (with most questions answered in the FAQ), simple mechanics, reasonable price, plenty of room for expansion add-ons, and yet very playable with just the starter set alone. This game gets my vote for best card game of the year (so far)! Tschuss bis zum nechsten mal.  Walt.&lt;img src=&quot;http://files.boardgamegeek.com/images/cool.gif&quot; alt=&quot;:cool:&quot; border=&quot;0&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://files.boardgamegeek.com/images/cool.gif&quot; alt=&quot;:cool:&quot; border=&quot;0&quot;&gt;</description>
	<link>http://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/6298#6298</link>
	<pubDate>2003-02-19T13:57:40+00:00</pubDate>
	<dc:creator>Walt Mulder</dc:creator>
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	<title>Thread: Session Report</title>
	<description>This is part one of a game I started with my son today.  I'm the Allied Forces and he's the Wehrmacht.  This is our first attempt at the game and has been favorable so far.  I started out with a good balance of forces spread across land, air, and sea but the Germans's were having a tough time mobilizing anything.  I had two battleships and a carrier when the first Battle for the North Atlantic came up.  The Germans were no match and lost their entire Navy.  The Allies were fortunate and kept a pretty strong fleet in the Atlantic and within a few more rounds, the 2nd and 3rd Battles for the Atlantic were fought.  Things were not going well for Germany as they lost both battles, one due to not having any navy to fight with.  Next up was the Battle for Syria and Egypt.  Rommel was now in play and put up a good fight, but the Brits forced the Germans to retreat and took that battle as well.  Score so far: 17-0.  Now my son is getting frustrated and rightfully so with his army getting a royal trouncing.  Well, the next 30 minutes were a total reversal.  The Germans started a massive buildup of forces and pulled nothing but deployment cards from the Conflict deck.  By the time the battle for Norway came around, they had a pretty good ground force ready and managed to sabotage a carrier and capture some British Field Artillery.  The slugfest that ensued nearly depleted the Allied forces and the battle went to Germany.  When the Battle for the Baltic showed up, the Germans had rebuilt their navy and put up a good fight.  Better than the Allies since they won it.  Even my bombers with double attack specials were missing their targets.  Now I'm getting frustrated as the next two battles for Greece and Luxembourg deplete the Allied forces even more before they have a chance to retreat in round 4.  My ground forces get divided and even my espionage got countered.  All those hold cards he was pulling at the beginning of the game are paying off for Deutschland.  Both Hitler and Churchill are both face up on the ground forces stack.  Monty got knocked out in the last battle, but Rommel is still directing the ground war for Germany.  The score now is 17-11 and the Germans currently have over 14 ground units fielded against the Allies.  I'm about ready to Emergency Deploy my forces and have had a heck of a time trying to get some deployment cards.  The card that he just turned over is the invasion of Belgium (gulp!).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;And that's when I had to go to work.  Like a good sport, I left it all set up and will hopefully finish this tomorrow.  My prospects don't look good.  I need to get some good cards to rebuild my forces and hold out.  I'll be lucky to get out of the battle on the table with anything and will probably be forced to Emergency Deploy on my next turn.  We're really enjoying the game so far.  We've only played with the basic decks and no booster packs.  There were a few card play questions that have come up that weren't covered in the FAQ.  I'll have to write them down and submit them for resolution.  Stay tuned for part 2.???</description>
	<link>http://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/6272#6272</link>
	<pubDate>2003-02-17T19:10:47+00:00</pubDate>
	<dc:creator>Walt Mulder</dc:creator>
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	<title>Thread: Battlecards Strategy</title>
	<description>The following is an excert from a post to the Spielfrieks mailing list by Battlecards designer Jonathan Bjork.&lt;br&gt;................&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Strategies in Battlecards must be based on a longterm goal rather than a short term gain. Because of the way the conflict deck is structured, there will be times when you are at an advantage, during these times you must work to &quot;put the hammer down&quot;. Likewise, there will be times when the tide is working against you, and there are strategies that will help you weather this storm and survive until the tide turns.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Most of these strategies are lengthy to explain, but here are some that will keep you from making the most common rookie errors that can result in your quick and utter destruction.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;German:&lt;br&gt;a) NEVER invade France and Belgium until you have overwhelming ground forces. This will prevent the British from targeting your ground forces at Normandy with their Navy and will prevent the Battle for France.&lt;br&gt;b) Hold Bismarck and Scharnhorst in your hand until you have destroyed all enemy Carriers with your U-boats OR the enemy has won all 4 sea battles. This will prevent the vicious British first strike with carrier support.&lt;br&gt;c) If you are playing with expansion packs, in navy battles, always fire with a disposable ship first (unless you have the mined harbor card in your hand).&lt;br&gt;d) Don't discard your infantry. Use them to defend artillery and Rommel. British ground units are so weak that doing so will force them to fire at infantry instead of artillery, thus allowing you more shots with your 128s and 88s.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;British:&lt;br&gt;a) Deploy every aircraft you draw. Even the Mosquitos. Air superiority, and strategic retreats are the key to British victories.&lt;br&gt;b) In ground battles, target all anti-aircraft threats first. If you can destroy the larger flak guns and the Luftwaffe, your Wellies are nearly impossible to shoot down.&lt;br&gt;c) Stack your fighters. The RAF fights better as a group than the Luftwaffe, so capitalize on that by stacking weaker aircraft under stronger ones.&lt;br&gt;d) Never deploy a Lancaster, unless you already have a Wellington and at least 2 hurricanes or spitfires. Your Lancasters are powerful, but not very survivable, so you must maximize their effectiveness. By using such restraint you can stack your Wellies attack to pump the Lancaster up to 19, which makes Tiger IIs and Rommel (and most German ships) an easy target.&lt;br&gt;e) If you are using expansion packs, try not to deploy just 1 radar. Wait until you can deploy 2 or 3. When you have 2 radars deployed, they become incredibly high priority targets and force the enemy to waste shots on them instead of your combat units. If the enemy foolishly ignores them, your Mosquitos will fire at a 13 like an air superiority fighter and 40mm Bofors will then shoot at an 18, good enough to take down an FW-190 with ease.&lt;br&gt;f) Do not do the invasion of Syria and Lebanon unless you have enough ground troops to hold it through several counter attacks, AND unless the enemy has something worth killing. If the enemy plays it smart, it may be one of the very few land battles you can initiate.&lt;br&gt;g) Withdraw early from all 2 point land battles, even if you can win. They serve you better in the hand of your opponent, as they give you something to counter-attack when you have the air and artillery it takes to wipe out the German army.&lt;br&gt;h)NEVER and I mean NEVER counter-attack the Invasion of France and Belgium  unless it will literally win the game for you. Doing so will rob you of an opportunity to get 17 victory points in 2 battles, and eliminate the possibility of targeting the German army with your navy at Normandy.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Jonathan Bjork&lt;br&gt;Chief of Games Development&lt;br&gt;DG Associates/DGAgames&lt;br&gt;&lt;A target='_blank' href=&quot;http://www.dgagames.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;www.dgagames.com&lt;/A&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;http://files.boardgamegeek.com/images/laugh.gif&quot; alt=&quot;:laugh:&quot; border=&quot;0&quot;&gt;</description>
	<link>http://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/5661#5661</link>
	<pubDate>2003-01-22T04:06:15+00:00</pubDate>
	<dc:creator>alkaiser</dc:creator>
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	<title>Thread: Session Report</title>
	<description>Just a quick Second Session Report on Battle Cards. In this game I had a new partner who had never played the game before. Since I was a one game veteran - and since the Allies destroyed the Axis in the first game - I took the Axis powers. Ben Wright took the Allies. About 20 minutes of explanation and the game began, more as a demo than an actual game - &quot;We'll just see how it plays, not worry about playing a game&quot; &lt;img src=&quot;http://files.boardgamegeek.com/images/tounge.gif&quot; alt=&quot;:p&quot; border=&quot;0&quot;&gt; Well, 2 hours later we were still at it - but now we were not showing our cards to each other and explaining the rules - we were after each other! It was blood-and-guts time!&lt;br&gt;The Germans rolled over the first 5 battles with hardly a single unit lost! It was devastating. But then - Hitler decided not to attack any more. Battle after Battle passed with the Allies refusing to attack and Hitler sitting idly by. Although England was very weak (hardly any units deployed - surely Nevil Chamberlain was in control), the Germans sat! I was frustrated. I couldn't attack because he was the aggressor and refused to attack. I had by now fought and won all of the German aggressive battles except France &amp; Belgium, and the Invasion of Britain. Only one of the North Atlantic battles had been fought, and I handily defeated him, sinking his Fleet Carrier with the devastating German subs. The allies, however, kept avoiding the other sea battles. Finally, he attacked in the North Atlantic and although the Germans had 3 battle wagons and a cruiser - they lost! The Nelson class battleship was devastating, and the Germans were decimated. Encouraged by his victory, he built his navy with a vengeance and shortly thereafter attacked in the Baltic Sea - another victory with the Nelson.&lt;br&gt;  Now the Allies were gaining steam. They took Syria &amp; Lebanon, then won the third Battle in the North Atlantic. Germany was back on its heels. The score at this point was Germany 19, Allies 12. But the battles of France &amp; Belgium,still loomed, as well as the invasion of Normandy, the Battle for France, adn the possible invasion of either Britain or Germany. And then...we had to quit!!!&lt;br&gt;  It was snowing and sleeting, and my partner had to get back to his house before it got worse. Weather! Always has played an important part in war.&lt;br&gt;  So - we aborted the game. But it was enough for me to sit up half the night thinking about it. This game has my mind in a vice! Thus far, it is addictive. &lt;br&gt;  Ben was a bit more ambivilant. He actually preferred Euphrat &amp; Tigris to BC . Why? &quot;I spent an hour with nothing deployed. It was frustrating. Maybe had we played the full game and I made a comeback, I would have enjoyed it more.&quot; &lt;br&gt;  I also love E&amp;T, so I couldn't criticize him for likeing that more, but I hope to entice him to another BC battle tomorrow. Great 2 player game for &quot;lighter&quot; wargame nuts.&lt;br&gt;Frank Hamrick, Rocky Mount, NC&lt;br&gt;  &lt;br&gt;</description>
	<link>http://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/5592#5592</link>
	<pubDate>2003-01-18T01:17:04+00:00</pubDate>
	<dc:creator>Frank Hamrick</dc:creator>
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	<title>Thread: Session Report</title>
	<description>Attendees - Lee Price, Frank Hamrick&lt;br&gt;Game - BattleCards: World in Conflice - Western European Theatre&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Lee Price and I are wargamers from AH days - and though we now play mostly German strategy games, we love to find excuses to get back to our roots. The problem is, we don't have the time to both learn, set up, and play the average wargame from days past. Even Paths of Glory and Hannibal: Rome Vs. Carthage take too much time from our schedule to fool with.&lt;br&gt;Finally, we found Battle Cards: World Conflict: European Theatre. It seemed like the very thing we've been waiting for. &lt;b&gt;&lt;font color='#FF0000'&gt;WWII !&lt;/font&gt;&lt;/b&gt; &lt;font color='#FF0000'&gt;&lt;b&gt;Quick !&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/font&gt; Only a page-and-a-half of rules ! No set up time. You can learn it in 10 minutes. Game time less than two hours! How can you beat that! So we both ordered the game. Lee also got the expansions.&lt;br&gt;The cards are very nice. They are Casino cards with a special coating and feel to them that is very nice - easy to shuffle and seem to be very substantial.&lt;br&gt;For our first game we decided to keep to the basic set with no expansion packs. Since it was our first game it ran 3 hours - but we were learning, reading the rules, and studying each card as we picked them up. We could easily play it in 2 hours now that we know it.&lt;br&gt;Since this is a Session Report, I'll not explain the mechanics of the game - but you can read either my review or Allan Kaiser's excellent review to learn that.&lt;br&gt;At first the game moved a bit slowly as we studied each card we drew - but as we played we found the game moved along quickly with hardly any down time for either side. A couple of games and this one should fly.&lt;br&gt;As the game progressed we played the Sea Rules incorrectly and that through the balance off. The German Navy is no match for the British Navy and our misplay of the sea rules exascerbated that deficiency! Rather than allow Battleships to take one shot at an Air, one at a Sea, and one at a Ground force - we let each Battleship[ take one shot at each air, each sea, and each ground force! Naturally, by the time this was done, the Germans had little with which to counter-attack. Thus, the Allies won 7 of the 8 battles fought, and then destroyed Germany in the final Battle for Germany.&lt;br&gt;We cought the problem after 6 battles. Germany did win one battle, before we discovered our mistake. Thus, we are anxious to play the game again and see if the game is a bit more balanced when played correctly!&lt;br&gt;The big question - is it totally luck driven (depends too much on who draws the best cards)? Well, we found some luck - as you would imagine in playing a card game. For exmaple, the Germans drew 18 Military Buildup cards while I drew 11. Using those cards he deployed 85 units during the game to my 50! Quite frustrating for me. For a few minutes I felt that the game required nothing of me more than the deploying of my forces at the beginning of the game and on those occasions when I did draw a Military Buildup card. However, as battles unfolded, I found that their were lots of decisions in deciding how to combine forces in an attack, and who would fight whom. Would my Battleship attack that Bomber or should it concentrate on His Battleship? Should my bombers hit his fleet or attack that Heavy Tank division? Should I fight or withdraw? When deploying units, what battles am I preparing for? &lt;br&gt;Further - I think the game allows for strategic planning. I found myself building my forces to point toward certain battles. I tried to dominate the seas and then after those battles had been fought I turned my attention to building my ground an air for an eventual invasion of Germany. Just the kinds of decisions I like.&lt;br&gt;I'm sure as we play the game we will see many more strategies. But remember - this isn't a deep war game. &lt;font color='#FF0000'&gt;&lt;b&gt;This game is designed for the war gamer who likes to play without taxing his brain to the limit. &lt;/b&gt;&lt;/font&gt;There were enough decisions and choices to suit both of us. After one play I would rate it &quot;just right.&quot;&lt;br&gt;As for our game - the Allies won easily by destroying Germany in the big Battle for Germany. I had been building up for this battle for a while.&lt;br&gt;If you love WWII (and what war gamer doesn't?) and yet don't have time to pour over rules and set up little counters - then seriously consider this game. I can't wait for the &lt;font color='#FF0000'&gt;&lt;b&gt;Pacific Theatre &lt;/b&gt;&lt;/font&gt;(my favorite theatre of the war)and its five expansions to come out  the first part of this year! We're playing it again day after tomorrow!! &lt;img src=&quot;http://files.boardgamegeek.com/images/biggrin.gif&quot; alt=&quot;:D&quot; border=&quot;0&quot;&gt;</description>
	<link>http://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/5532#5532</link>
	<pubDate>2003-01-15T16:56:42+00:00</pubDate>
	<dc:creator>Frank Hamrick</dc:creator>
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	<title>Thread: User Review</title>
	<description>About 30 years ago I received what I consider to be my first real boardgame as a Christmas present from my Dad. The game was Blitzkrieg from Avalon Hill. Of course, I had played all the other standard childhood games but this game opened my eyes to a whole new world. I remember the big map, all the cardboard counters and the rulebook, all I could think was WOW! I don’t think either one of us thought Blitzkrieg was a great game but it was still a lot of fun to play and play we did! Over the years we played many Avalon Hill games, some were war games and some were not. The wargames always had a special place in my heart but they all had something in common for both my Dad and I, they were all complex, fiddly and long. We almost always argued over different interpretations of the rules (poorly written as they were) and we would frequently not have the time to finish the games we started. Still, we had lots of fun and I have a lot of good memories from those games.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Over the last several years I have gotten back into board gaming with the same passion I had in my younger years. Now the games that we all know and love are relatively short and easy compared to what Avalon Hill had to offer years ago. Playing an entertaining strategy game in an hour or two (that’s including reading the rules!) was unheard of when I was a kid but now that occurs on a weekly basis (if I’m lucky!). I thank my lucky stars for finding Settlers and all the other great German style strategy games I have played in the last several years. I occasionally get in a few games with my Dad every now and then. We still have lots of fun but nothing really brings back our old rivalry like a good ol’ wargame.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;One day I was searching the web for some game related material and was clicking through the links that my search engine had thrown at me. Not knowing exactly what I was looking for, I clicked on a link to DGA Games. The site immediately caught my eye! Splashed across the page in big letters was the name BATTLECARDS. Pictures of cards with images of Hitler, Churchill, Rommel and Montgomery as well as a Spitfire and a Tiger tank jumped off the page. My mind raced back to the days of game after game of Squad Leader, Panzer Leader, Midway and Victory in the Pacific. What was this! &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Now, I consider myself to be a very well informed gamer. I pore over newsgroups, email lists and a multitude of websites on a daily basis, looking for information on the best games. I maintain wish lists of interesting games for months, gathering information to help me decide if a game will suit my tastes and fit in my always tight gaming budget. I had never seen any information on a game called Battlecards! I checked again. Nothing on BoardGameGeek, nothing on Google Groups. Strange! I looked over the Battlecards website again. It seemed to be a strategic level, card-based wargame. It looked too good to be true and I promptly bought the game.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Battlecards is an expandable, card-based, WWII strategy game. Players control land, sea and air units of the Axis and Allied forces. The currently available set covers the Western European campaign with forces from Great Britain and Germany. A soon to be released set will cover the Pacific theater with American and Japanese forces. Two more sets, the Russian Front and North African campaigns, are in the works. Each set consists of a base starter pack which has three decks of cards; an Allied deck, an Axis deck and a common deck that drives the game called the Conflict deck. There are also expansion packs that contain a carefully balanced set of cards that can be added to a starter pack. I should emphasize that this is not a collectable card game but the expansions do allow for a little more diversity in each of the decks and include some interesting units. The Western European Campaign has five expansion packs currently available. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;The rules to Battlecards cover the front and a portion of the back of a single sheet of paper and they are fairly straight forward. A nice diagram of how the cards are to be laid out on the table is also included to speed setup. A beginner can go from opening the box to beginning play in maybe 20 minutes or so. As mentioned above, there are three decks of cards in the game. The decks the players use are called the Arsenal decks and consist of the land, sea and air units at your disposal as well as a leader card and a general card. The third deck is called the Conflict deck and is placed in the center of the table. This deck contains an assortment of cards that drive the game and indicate what happens on each turn. A series of Battle cards that represent key battles in the theater are part of the cards in the Conflict deck and indicate the potential for a battle between the Axis and Allied players. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;At the start of the game, each player draws six cards from his Arsenal deck and deploys three of these cards, face down, into three possible stacks, land units, air units and sea units, in that order from left to right. These are your deployed forces and are the units that will participate in battles. Therefore, a player will always know what general type of units their opponent has available and their number but not the strength of those units. Units can be deployed in any combination of stacks as the player sees fit, so you could initially deploy all land units or only air and sea units, or maybe one unit of each type depending on your strategy. The remaining three cards are kept in your hand and are called your Reserve hand. The German player begins play. A turn consists of a player drawing a card from the Conflict deck and following its instructions. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;The Conflict deck cards can be grouped into four different types of cards. The first type are cards that allow the player to immediately perform an action, generally against the opposing player. The Espionage card, which lets you examine one or several of your opponents deployed stacks of units, is an example of this type of card. These cards are discarded onto the Conflict deck discard pile after the action is taken. The second type of Conflict card is the Military Buildup card and is also acted on immediately, then discarded. These cards instruct the player to draw from one to five cards from the players Arsenal deck into their hand and then play a certain number of cards out into the deployed unit stacks, followed by discarding a number of cards from your hand into the Arsenal deck discard pile. These cards are the major way that players get cards out of their Arsenal decks and into their deployed unit stacks. The third type of card are called Kept cards. These Conflict cards instruct the player to keep the card and the card is placed into a players pile called the Kept card pile. These cards may then be played on subsequent turns to help the player or hinder his opponent in a variety of ways. The final type of card is the Battlecard which may signal the start of a battle. Almost a third of the Conflict deck are Battlecards while a little more than a third are Military Buildup cards. The last two types of cards make up equal portions of the final third of the Conflict deck.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Each Battlecard consist of a description of which units may participate in the battle (land, sea and/or air) as well as any unusual victory conditions which would signal the end of the battle. Also on the card may be a list of prerequisites which must be met before the battle can take place as well as the number of victory points the winner of the battle gains. The prerequisites are typically one or more other battles won by one or the other side. Occasionally certain unit types (land, sea or air) must be present for the prerequisites to be met. The aggressor in the battle may also be indicated on the card which determines which side fires first. If a player has none of the deployed unit types listed on the Battlecard, the other player wins the battle. If neither player has any of the listed unit types or the designated aggressor decides not to fight the battle, the battle doesn’t take place and the Battlecard is discarded. Otherwise, each player turns the unit stacks indicated on the Battlecard face up. Battles consist of turns made up of four rounds of combat during which each player fires particular units designated as being able to fire in that round. Artillery and sea units are able to fire in the first round, air units in the second round and ground units in the third or fourth rounds. A final round is the withdraw phase where players may remove some or all of their units from combat. The turns are repeated until the units of one player have been eliminated or withdrawn, or until the specific victory conditions for the battle have been met. The winner of the battle gets the victory points indicated and possession of the card. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Battles are resolved one unit at a time starting with the aggressor units able to fire in the first round. Each unit has an attack value against each of the three unit types as well as a defense value vs each of the unit types. The attacking player chooses a unit and compares that units attack value against land, air or sea units (whichever is applicable) to the defenders defense value. Certain unit cards (a General, for example) and some Kept cards can add bonuses to these values. A card is then drawn from the Conflict deck to resolve the encounter. All Conflict cards have a number associated with them ranging from 1 to 25 and this number is compared against the total attack and defense values. If the value on the card is less than or equal to the attack value and greater than the defense value, the attack succeeds and the defending unit is discarded to the Arsenal deck discard pile of the defending player. This occurs for all of the aggressor units able to fire in the first round. Then the defender fires any units able to fire in the first round. This continues through the remaining rounds of a turn and the turns continue until a player has won the battle. Winning a battle is not the end of the game however. To win the game, a player must win a majority of the points available from the battles in the Conflict deck (38 points in this basic set with the average battle being worth about 5 points) or you can alternatively win the battle for your opponents homeland.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Comparison With Other Popular Card-Based Games&lt;br&gt;That’s about it for the rules, it’s all pretty straight forward. But how does the game really play you ask? One of the big things that I noticed when I first played Battlecards was how different it was from other card-based games. For comparison, consider Magic: the Gathering, the Flagship series from GMT and the Down in Flames series from GMT. Both Magic and Flagship are tactical card based battle games. Both are fairly quick and easy and suffer from the same card based luck-of-the-draw issue that any card game has. Each has a “take that” feel to it where each player tries to attack his opponent, turn after turn, until one player finally succumbs. GMTs Down in Flames series also has this “take that” feel when playing dogfights but has much more involved decisions when playing the campaign games, at the expense of a lot more rules. So how does Battlecards differ from these games? Battlecards does have tactical card play that is similar to what you see in Magic and Flagship. But as mentioned above, winning a battle is not the end of the game. You must win multiple battles to claim victory and this allows for some great strategic decisions. Also, the fact that the game takes multiple battles to win means that the luck-of-the-draw issue does not play as large of a role since the games tend to last longer. As an example, I recall one game where I was unable to get any of my Arsenal cards out into my deployed stacks for the first half hour of the game. However, with some luck and skillful card play, I was able to avoid any major confrontations and eventually came back to win the game. Overall, Battlecards is easier to learn (and teach) than Magic while offering greater strategic depth with the same easy, tactical card play.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Look and Feel&lt;br&gt;The quality of the components is something that gamers look for in a good game and Battlecards does not disappoint in this regard. The cards are standard poker size with plastic coating. No card protectors needed here! They stand up very nicely to repeated riffle shuffling, which is more than I can say for most card games now days. Another aspect of the game which I really enjoy are the pictures on the cards. Anyone who has played Magic or any of it’s many spinoffs (including Flagship) is aware of the concept of a picture used to represent the unit or action in question. The pictures on the Arsenal decks in Battlecards are actual WWII photographs of the units represented on the cards, a very nice touch indeed! The cards in the Conflict deck also contain actual WWII photographs as well. For me, these pictures on the cards really enhance the wargame feel of Battlecards. I get into this game in a way that I can’t in standard wargames with the hex-based maps and cardboard counters.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;The Third Deck&lt;br&gt;The Conflict deck is what makes this game different from most card-based games. It brings a strategic element to the game that is both elegant and intuitive while maintaining the flow needed in a card game of this type. In addition, the use of these cards as the combat resolution mechanism rather than dice or some other mechanism is a great idea that keeps the simplicity of a card game but still allows for a luck element that should be present in any tactical combat game. The variety of cards in this deck keeps the game interesting and prevents the game from becoming the tit-for-tat, last man standing card game that many games in this area have become. Looking at the number of battles in this deck (about a third of the cards) you would think that a battle would happen about every third turn. But the need to meet certain prerequisites for most battles as well as the ability for the aggressor to not fight a battle decreases the frequency of combat and allows the players time to develop strategies and plan for the coming battles rather than constantly reacting to the last card your opponent played. The addition of several kept Conflict cards that allow some control over when a battle will occur also adds to the strategy of the game, if you play your cards right!&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Where’s the Beef!&lt;br&gt;The real heart of any good game, in my opinion, is the depth and variety of the decisions that are needed to play the game well. Battlecards certainly have its share of decisions! On the tactical side, should you gang up on one key enemy unit hoping to improve your odds of eliminating it or should you spread out your attacks, hoping to eliminate more units and gain a numerical advantage? Tough choices. Given that units can only fight in specified rounds of a turn, which unit you choose to attack can spell the difference between victory and defeat. Over on the strategic front, do you withdraw your forces from a small battle worth a couple of points and hope to build up your units for that next big battle that you know is coming up in the deck? Should you deploy a lot of sea units hoping to dominate the next sea battle given that most of the sea battles have yet to show up? I could go on and on but you get the idea. The decisions that each player makes over the course of the game are what decides the outcome, not that one player happened to get a few lucky card draws in a row.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;The Bad&lt;br&gt;There really isn’t much I can criticize Battlecards about. I guess if you don’t like luck-of-the-draw issues in card games or any luck at all, in your games then you will probably not like Battlecards. But then again, I can’t think of any war or battle that didn’t involve an element of luck to dictate it’s outcome. One thing that did come up that we easily resolved was bringing some type of turn marker into the game. Turns can go back and forth fairly quickly when there isn’t a battle but once a battle does come up it might take a while until it is the next players turn to draw a Conflict card. Given that battles can be relatively long and that the aggressor in a battle is not necessarily the person drawing the battlecard, we were continually forgetting who’s turn it was after a long battle. We ended up using a Matchbox Sherman tank as a turn marker that we passed back and forth when we had finished our turn. Another minor issue that came up was keeping track of the special bonuses that carriers can apply to other units. Usually when a unit is capable of applying a bonus to another unit (either attack or defense) it is a simple matter to keep track of since the unit must forfeit it’s own action to assist another unit. Simply placing the supporting units card with the supported units card eliminates any confusion. Navel carriers are a special case since they get two or three bonuses that can be applied to other units in addition to their own action. This is not a problem in a small battle but in a large battle with multiple carriers, where these bonuses are getting applied can become confusing. This was easy enough to fix by making some cardboard counters representing each of the bonuses and placing them on the cards receiving the bonus.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Expansions&lt;br&gt;Each expansion pack adds 20 cards to the cards in the starter set. These cards are a mix of Arsenal cards for both sides in addition to Conflict deck cards, including the occasional new battle. A nice feature of the expansions is that a list of the cards in each pack is printed right on the package, no surprises here! You can buy the ones that look interesting and skip those that don’t (although, they all add interesting elements to the game, in my opinion). Some of the cards in the expansions are not found in the starter pack while others are repeats. It also appears that an effort was made to try to maintain a relatively historical mix of units in both quantity and variety (for example, the Germans only get one Bismark!). The addition of a few “what if” type cards (German jet fighters and the atomic bomb to name a couple) adds a nice touch as well.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Optional Rules and More&lt;br&gt;The DGA Games website (&lt;A target='_blank' href=&quot;http://www.dgagames.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;www.dgagames.com&lt;/A&gt;) has a page with optional rules that can be used with any basic set or even to combine different basic sets (when they become available) so that players can fight out the different theaters of WWII in one big game. There are rules for team play with up to eight players and lots more. There are even rules for custom deck construction for those of you who like deck building. As more sets become available, the possibilities get very interesting. There is also a FAQ page that may clear up certain aspects of the game for some players.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Who should buy this game&lt;br&gt;If you enjoy wargames with a WWII theme and would like a good game with easy rules and no involved set-up then grab this game and its expansions ASAP! You will not be disappointed. If you enjoy card games like Magic and Flagship and don’t mind a WWII theme then you will probably like Battlecards. The addition of the Conflict deck driving the strategic aspect of the game is a wonderful mechanism. If you are serious boardgamer who enjoys plenty of opportunity for decisions in both tactical and strategic play and don’t mind luck-of-the-draw issues then you will probably enjoy this game as well. If you are a casual/family game player and you don’t mind the WWII theme, Battlecards is an easy to learn, fun, noncollectable game that is accessible to almost everyone. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Overall Opinion&lt;br&gt;This game really hit the mark with me. The combination of an easy to learn game that has lots of tactical and strategic decisions, different ways of winning and with a great theme is something I look for in a good game. Playing time comes in at about 60 to 90 minutes on average (some have gone two hours while others have been around 30 minutes). The expandable nature of the game (and the fact that it is not collectable!) as well as the ability to combine this game with future releases is another plus that can’t be overlooked. All this in a couple of nice decks of cards! It is clear that the designer has put a lot of thought and effort into the design of this game. What’s not to like. Highly recommended!&lt;br&gt;</description>
	<link>http://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/5235#5235</link>
	<pubDate>2003-01-06T14:30:13+00:00</pubDate>
	<dc:creator>alkaiser</dc:creator>
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