Game: Dungeoneer: Tomb of the Lich Lord

Thread: Re: Solo play any good?

ianpwilliams — 2008-10-02T18:13:57+00:00

Good to know, thanks.

I've been looking into it and it seems that the first one is fairly hard to get hold of anyway. I can't find Vault of the Fiends or Haunted Woods of Malthorin, but with them being half-size I'm happy to avoid them. The rest seem to be pretty readily available.

I like the sound of combining different sets as well (presumably dungeon with dungeon and wilderness with wilderness). But I noticed that there are reprints and second editions of some of the sets, and that some of the play mechanics have been updated in the 2nd editions. Could I therefore run into problems if I combined one set of cards with another if one was 1st edition and one was 2nd edition?

Thread: Re: Solo play any good?

Sprydle — 2008-10-02T16:19:12+00:00

There's no reason to start with the original at all. The "expansions" are actually just the full game in a different location with different characters and abilities as well as diferent monster abilities. In fact, the first one is probably the least interesting in terms of monster abilities and characters...but then again that may be simply because we've had it for so long?

Each of them doesn't require building on any of the prior releases. The Den of the Wererats and the Forest of whatsit, are half-size in terms of card-count, so don't get those unless your going to get both at the same time and play them together--played alone there are mechanic and timing issues which make them potentially very lackluster to downright not-fun.

Sorry I haven't played the solo rules, but the games are definitely fun with 2 to 4. It's worth enough as a quick-playing dungeon crawl for 2+ that I'd say just pick it up and try out the solo rules. They're relatively inexpensive so you'll get your value out of a single game easily.

Thread: Re: Solo play any good?

ianpwilliams — 2008-10-02T14:46:55+00:00

Having looked at this thread

http://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/2694856#2694856

I see that someone else has their own solo rules, which no doubt are better. I would still be interested to know if people have played it solo, either using the official or unofficial solo rules.

And I would be very interested to know about the expansions too, as I'm finding it very hard to find the original at the moment.

Thread: Re: Solo play any good?

gmonk — 2008-10-02T14:22:40+00:00

I believe there are solo rules in the optional rules PDF.

http://www.atlas-games.com/pdf_storage/DungeoneerOptRules.pd...

Thread: Re: Full Solitaire Rules - Playtesting appreciated!

ianpwilliams — 2008-10-02T14:21:00+00:00

Do these solo rules work well? I've just started looking at this game and like the look of it, so I'm thinking about buying it. But if I do then I will be only be playing it solitaire, so I'll be interested to try your solitaire rules.

Thread: Solo play any good?

ianpwilliams — 2008-10-02T14:08:18+00:00

Are there any solo rules for this game? Or has anyone made their own?

Also, does anyone play this solo and does it work and is it fun?

And would anyone recommend any or all of the expansions?

Thanks

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Howitzer_120mm — 2008-10-01T22:47:02+00:00

Using Dungeons and Dragons minatures for the pieces - works quite nicely.

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Howitzer_120mm — 2008-10-01T21:21:51+00:00

Using Dungeons and Dragons minatures for the pieces - works quite nicely.

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Howitzer_120mm — 2008-10-01T19:41:51+00:00

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Howitzer_120mm — 2008-10-01T18:40:13+00:00

Example Layout

Thread: Re: Others spending peril on my Dungeonlord phase

tldenmark — 2008-09-27T23:41:01+00:00

Howitzer_120mm wrote:
Only responses can be played not on your turn. You have to play instant cards on your turn.

And also "Anytimes"

-td

Thread: Re: Others spending peril on my Dungeonlord phase

Howitzer_120mm — 2008-09-24T14:22:47+00:00

Only responses can be played not on your turn. You have to play instant cards on your turn.

Thread: Others spending peril on my Dungeonlord phase

theashers — 2008-09-23T16:16:02+00:00

Is it possible for another player to spend peril during my Dungeonlord phase?

Here was the layman scenario:
It was my Dungeonlord phase and I sent two creatures to attack George, paying the peril from George's track. Jerry had an Instant that gives "+1 to all creature's melee" and he pays the peril from my track.

George was the leader, nearly completing his 3rd quest, so the rest of us thought to gang up on him.

Thanks,
--Matt

Thread: Re: Nice package! The best storage for your dungeoneer sets

Lou-Dawg — 2008-09-11T21:09:00+00:00

Can you take a picture please of what everything looks like in your storage solution?

Thread: Re: Dungeoneer Series wiki page created

gmonk — 2008-09-07T10:23:17+00:00

Thanks! I fixed the link title.

Thread: Re: Dungeoneer Series wiki page created

almar — 2008-08-04T07:22:45+00:00

Good job! One mistake though, your link to Dragons of the Forsaken Desert is called Dragons of the Forsaken Waste...

Thread: Dungeoneer Series wiki page created

gmonk — 2008-08-03T08:37:40+00:00

I've set up a wiki page to summarize the Dungeoneer series. Please have a look and add anything you feel is appropriate. Comments or suggestions would also be helpful.

Read it at Dungeoneer Series.

Thanks!

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jsper — 2008-07-28T01:13:21+00:00

Promotional in spanish

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30ought6 — 2008-07-24T14:49:41+00:00

My DIY player stand-up figures (foto paper, thick card board and 40K bases).

Thread: Re: Simple Dungeoneer Solitaire

TaleSpinner — 2008-07-22T02:12:26+00:00

Lightstorm wrote:
Please clarify (simple solitaire):

It seems that only undefeated monsters go to the "pack," as in the standard game - there isn't a "pack" at the beginning of the game. If this is so it seems that many monsters will be discarded on turns where there is low peril since cards drawn from either the peril deck or the "pack" must meet the peril quantity available.

For example, turn number one (dungeoneer phase) - zero peril available (hero hasn't moved). Any card drawn will be discarded - there will be no pack created. Later turns, assuming low peril available (maybe 3): card drawn from the peril deck is higher than 3, so it is discarded. According to the simple solitaire rules the next draw should be from the pack. Assuming there aren't cards with a peril of 3 or lower the rules indicate that the next card should come from the peril deck. Assume this is higher than 3 it's discarded, right? When does the pattern end?

Thanks!

No, you only discard once. If you draw a card that has greater Peril that what you have (say 3), and assuming that the "Pack" is empty, then the card is discarded and the Dungeonlord phase ends:

1. Always turn over one card from the Peril deck. If its peril is greater than your available peril then discard and end the phase – you’ve escaped attack. Otherwise the card is in play so pay the peril.

So you end up with 3 Peril, and your Hero Phase starts. On your next turn, more Peril is added to this 3 Peril, giving a higher chance for big monsters to be played.

Thread: Nice package! The best storage for your dungeoneer sets

Antidog — 2008-07-16T21:10:14+00:00

Thought I'd share this little discovery with you all in case you're interested. I've bought a couple of dungeoneer sets and wanted to put together a nice complete set of bits to go with them. In addition to the cards themselves, I printed off the character standups off this site onto photo paper (with a bit of card sandwiched between), bunged in 4 red Games Workshop dice, 1 white die for the 'good guy' rolls, 1 black die for the 'baddie' rolls, 4 plastic slot bases and a collection of coloured glass counters for glory/peril etc. So far so good. My problem was how to store all these bits nicely.

During a visit to Hobbycraft shop I found a brilliant solution. The 0.3 litre Really Useful Box. These are exactly the right size to take all the cards, a baggie full of the other bits and bobs and the rules. What's more, they come in various colours that will suit the edition you have. I have a red one for Tomb of the Lich Lord and a blue one for the Ice Witch set. A quick colour print off to tape to the inside of the clear lid and you have yourself a really nice stackable games box for only a quid per box.

Hope this is of use to some of you, the link is here: http://www.reallyusefulproducts.co.uk/uk/html/onlineshop/rub...

Thread: Re: Tales of Tyranny or Jack Shows Up Dad Once Again

tldenmark — 2008-06-30T19:58:56+00:00

You can never get stuck in a room because of a door.

Trapped door: fail go through but take 1 wound
Locked door: fail go through but lose 1 movement (or be tipped)

Sounds like you had fun anyway!

Thread: Re: Tales of Tyranny or Jack Shows Up Dad Once Again

tibodi — 2008-06-28T09:09:48+00:00

if you fail to overcome the trapped door threath,take 1 wound,but still pass through.you are not locked in!

Thread: Tales of Tyranny or Jack Shows Up Dad Once Again

Shanahan — 2008-06-27T18:12:44+00:00

Jack and I had a bit of a Dungeoneer fest this week. Two games on two nights.

In game one, I was playing the Elven Sorceress. Jack had his beloved Necrowarrior. At one point, paying far less attention than I should have, I moved myself into the Throne of Tyranny. It wasn't until my next turn that I noticed that said throneroom has four trapped doors (Hazard 6+, speed). Yes, I had locked myself into the Throne of Tyranny.

Because it was early in the game, I needed to get out. I chanced the trappped door. First level as I was, I needed a 4 or better. I rolled a 1. Took a wound. Next turn, rolled a 1. Took a wound. Next turn, rolled a 2. Took a wound. Burned a healing potion. Next turn, rolled a 1. Took a wound. Next turn, rolled a 2. Took a wound. Burned a Healing II potion. Finally got out. By this time, of course, the Necrowarrior had completed one quest and was well on his way to winning.

Which he did.

Game Two. Necrowarrior and Dwarven Avenger. Out comes the Throne again. I know enough to stay away, and so does Jack. But, look! One of his quests takes him past it. I look at my hand of cards. I've got a Budge spell. I can only hope that---yes! Jack ends his turn on the square next to the Throne room.

Now, on his last turn I had sicced the Lich Lord on him. I knew he was expecting it again.

"You know what I'm going to do, right buddy?" I ask.

"Yup," he says. "I'll pay--"

"Two," I tell him. He looks confused. The Lich Lord costs 6. I unload the Budge card and, laughing evilly, move his marker into the Throne of Tyranny. He can't believe it, 10-year-old eyes wide.

(You see this coming, right?)

Jack's next hero phase.

Rolls a 5.

Escapes.

Laughs at poor old dad.

Goes on to win.

Thread: Re: 1e game with 2.xe rules?

Sprydle — 2008-06-05T23:52:44+00:00

It was mostly clarifications and the addition of the monster "pack" for keeping them out in play, but the rules work fine with the original cards. There were a few card text changes, no game-play changes, but again clarifications.

Thread: Re: 1e game with 2.xe rules?

Chaz Donnell — 2008-06-05T20:05:36+00:00

Short answer, "Yep." You might find one or two points in the rules where there is a change, but the game has stayed pretty much the same.

Thread: Re: 1e game with 2.xe rules?

stjase — 2008-06-05T20:04:38+00:00

chooche wrote:
Greetings,

I "inherited" a 1e Citizen game version from a friend. Will it work with the 2.x rules I found here on BGG?

Thanks!

"Inherited?"

Did you...did you kill him?

Seriously, I'm sure you could 'make' it work. Maybe this thread will help:

http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/26332

Thread: 1e game with 2.xe rules?

chooche — 2008-06-05T19:50:44+00:00

Greetings,

I "inherited" a 1e Citizen game version from a friend. Will it work with the 2.x rules I found here on BGG?

Thanks!

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Howitzer_120mm — 2008-06-03T05:22:38+00:00

Examples of the different cards - When you can play them (Anytime, Hero, Dungeon Lord, Response)

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Howitzer_120mm — 2008-06-03T04:28:14+00:00

Player Mat (from files) in use

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Howitzer_120mm — 2008-06-03T04:26:06+00:00

Lorel Alanus - Elf Sorceress with Hero Card and Token

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Howitzer_120mm — 2008-06-03T04:03:41+00:00

2 reference cards included. Left - Turn Summary Right - Symbols

Thread: Re: Which is the best?

Lou-Dawg — 2008-05-30T00:25:36+00:00

Tomb is best to start with.

The small outdoor sets are impossible to find anymore (Woods and Den). If you see them on store shelves BUY BUY BUY!

Thread: Re: Which is the best?

TaleSpinner — 2008-05-28T00:04:32+00:00

Tomb IMHO. It has the basics of the game, and most of the cards end up in the discard pile, thus getting recycled more often.

Thread: Re: Which is the best?

derp — 2008-05-27T16:42:33+00:00

Hi, I recently picked this game up. My local gaming store only had Vault, Dragons and the Ice Realm sets. I wanted Tomb but of the 3, heard better reviews about Vault. I guess Desert and Ice have some rule changes and Vault is more 'basic' .. along the same lines as the original. We are enjoying it alot! I wanted to add to it with the original, so I picked up Tomb last week. Beware, I had a hard time finding it! I had to order it online.

I really want the Haunted Woods of Malthorin set but I can't find it ANYWHERE.

Good luck!

Thread: Re: Which is the best?

mindea — 2008-05-27T16:29:11+00:00

I had the same question recently, and can only speak from my own experience. We started with "Tomb of the Lich Lord" and had a great time. Read through the instruction once, then deal the cards and start playing. By the end of the game we had it down and had great fun for the next three rounds. So, I would say "Tomb..." is a good place to start.

Next time we are going to try "Vault of Fiends"

Hope you have fun.

Thread: Which is the best?

Itiac Nolcin — 2008-05-27T10:56:41+00:00

Hi everyone, I was thinking of buying one of these and I want to know which one is the best to start with?
Thank you

Thread: Re: Question about Monster attking Hero

derp — 2008-05-19T21:08:55+00:00

Thanks for taking the time to help me, I appreciate it! I've read over the rules before and during play but am posting today after the fact. This clears up alot

Thread: Re: Question about Monster attking Hero

abrannan — 2008-05-19T18:44:49+00:00

derp wrote:

So about the pack, you can discard from the pack during your discard phase? Instead of your hand?

Yes, from the rules:

http://files.boardgamegeek.com/geekfile_view.php?fileid=2526...

5. Discard/Draw Phase: If you have any cards in your hand,
you must either discard 1 of them, 1 Treasure card from
your Inventory, or 1 Encounter card from your Pack (Emphasis mine)

Thread: Re: Question about Monster attking Hero

derp — 2008-05-19T18:21:54+00:00

Thanks for the clarification! Somehow I got that it's 1 dice per attack, when it's just 1 dice always and add the + to the result.

So about the pack, you can discard from the pack during your discard phase? Instead of your hand?

Thread: Re: Question about Monster attking Hero

abrannan — 2008-05-19T16:28:39+00:00

[q="derp]
Ahh! So I think it was a successful hit card. It had the melee icon and then :wound 1, then more text about the tipping.

Regarding keeping track of monster hitpoints, would a 6 sided dice work ok? Do monsters ever have more than 6hp?

A d6 should be plenty, I'm not sure I've ever seen anything with more than 3HP (Though I don't have the legendary set)

So, to clarify, once you've played a monster into the pack, the only way it can be removed is:

a) playing another monster into the pack at which point you remove one of your choosing and immediately discard it?

b) have the monsters hitpoints reduced to 0 in which its immediately discarded

Actually, no, I forgot about the discard/draw phase. You can discard an encounter from your pack if you have any cards left in your hand when your Discard/draw phase comes around. You can do a) above if you already have three cards in your pack and want to add another.

You always roll 1 dice for attacks/defends and the + only adds to them. So even with 0 attack, you roll one dice. So.. the monster had a melee attack of 2. So I roll 3 dice (I would assume, but just making sure)?

Nope, A melee attack of 2 rolls 1d6 + 2, for a final result somewhere between 3 and 8.

Thread: Re: Question about Monster attking Hero

derp — 2008-05-19T16:10:24+00:00

abrannan wrote:

You still get a roll if your Melee score is 0, you just don't add any to the roll. Also, make sure you're separating card effect text from successful hit text (card effects have no symbol next to them, successful hit texts have the type of hit icon next to them).

I don't have the cards in front of me, so I'm assuming that the threat 6+ is a card effect, and the 1 damage is a hit effect. If that's the case, the battle would look something like this:

-Monster is played, declares melee attack
-Threat 6+ melee special card text is applied
-Defender rolls d6, adds melee (0), if not >= 6, is tipped

-Any defender response abilities are played
-Monster rolls attack d6, addds melee (2)
-Defender rolls melee d6, adds melee (0)

If monster rolls higher, apply 1 damage to defender
If defender rolls higher, kill monster.
If tie, nothing happens

-If the defender has a movement point, and the monster is not dead, defender may issue a challenge action

Ahh! So I think it was a successful hit card. It had the melee icon and then :wound 1, then more text about the tipping.

Regarding keeping track of monster hitpoints, would a 6 sided dice work ok? Do monsters ever have more than 6hp?

...What you can do is discard the monster when you already have three in your pack and want to add another.

So, to clarify, once you've played a monster into the pack, the only way it can be removed is:

a) playing another monster into the pack at which point you remove one of your choosing and immediately discard it?

b) have the monsters hitpoints reduced to 0 in which its immediately discarded

Also, leaving a monster in the pack would free up more cards for your hand, but leaves the other Heros knowing what they will face.

You always roll 1 dice for attacks/defends and the + only adds to them. So even with 0 attack, you roll one dice. So.. the monster had a melee attack of 2. So I roll 3 dice (I would assume, but just making sure)?

Thread: Re: Question about Monster attking Hero

abrannan — 2008-05-19T15:13:41+00:00

derp wrote:
Hi all,

So I bought this game and the wife and I played through a quick 'learn the rules and flow of gameplay' session last night. A couple questions that came up that I have are:

1) I had a monster that has 1 hitpoint and was 2 melee attack. Her hero had no melee attack. The monster said, inflict one wound, hero has to beat threat +6 melee or is tipped. ... So, I played the monster against her during my Dungeonlord phase out of the 'Pack'. And it got us thinking. It immediately inflicts one wound on her. She then has to try to beat the threat or is tipped. Since her Hero melee was 0, she was always taking 1 wound and being tipped and thought it was stupid, like.. how was she ever supposed to beat the thing? I said the only thing I could think of was to save 1 movement point from her previous turn and spend it to counter-attack the monster with magic. He had 0 magic attack and she had 2. So she'd probably defeat his 1 hitpoint. Were we doing something wrong?

You still get a roll if your Melee score is 0, you just don't add any to the roll. Also, make sure you're separating card effect text from successful hit text (card effects have no symbol next to them, successful hit texts have the type of hit icon next to them).

I don't have the cards in front of me, so I'm assuming that the threat 6+ is a card effect, and the 1 damage is a hit effect. If that's the case, the battle would look something like this:

-Monster is played, declares melee attack
-Threat 6+ melee special card text is applied
-Defender rolls d6, adds melee (0), if not >= 6, is tipped

-Any defender response abilities are played
-Monster rolls attack d6, addds melee (2)
-Defender rolls melee d6, adds melee (0)

If monster rolls higher, apply 1 damage to defender
If defender rolls higher, kill monster.
If tie, nothing happens

-If the defender has a movement point, and the monster is not dead, defender may issue a challenge action

2) Both of us were kinda wondering whats the point of keeping a monster in the pack vs. keeping it in your hand? I understand that if it's wounded it has to stay in the pack or be discarded. But lets say it wasn't. She had 2 monsters she played against me and put them in her pack. Is this to keep more monsters out and more cards in her hand?

Yes, it's a way of getting more cards into your hand, while still having the monsters available for use, at the cost of showing your opponent what she may face.

3) Movement. Not really explained in the rules anywhere! I downloaded the latest off the website and the 'how to play dungeoneer' PDF as well. Speed/Movement get VERY LITTLE explanation. It's simple enough to 'get' but really, at the very least, a paragraph explaining it would be nice.

Somewhere I saw an example of play with the movement, but I can't find it at the moment.

4) Monsters in pack having hitpoints. So,.. how do you keep track of this? Use extra dice? Paper?

Yup.

5) Can you take a monster that has no wound out of the pack and into your hand and then discard him during the discard phase?

Not that I know of. What you can do is discard the monster when you already have three in your pack and want to add another.

Thread: Question about Monster attking Hero

derp — 2008-05-19T14:32:21+00:00

Hi all,

So I bought this game and the wife and I played through a quick 'learn the rules and flow of gameplay' session last night. A couple questions that came up that I have are:

1) I had a monster that has 1 hitpoint and was 2 melee attack. Her hero had no melee attack. The monster said, inflict one wound, hero has to beat threat +6 melee or is tipped. ... So, I played the monster against her during my Dungeonlord phase out of the 'Pack'. And it got us thinking. It immediately inflicts one wound on her. She then has to try to beat the threat or is tipped. Since her Hero melee was 0, she was always taking 1 wound and being tipped and thought it was stupid, like.. how was she ever supposed to beat the thing? I said the only thing I could think of was to save 1 movement point from her previous turn and spend it to counter-attack the monster with magic. He had 0 magic attack and she had 2. So she'd probably defeat his 1 hitpoint. Were we doing something wrong?

2) Both of us were kinda wondering whats the point of keeping a monster in the pack vs. keeping it in your hand? I understand that if it's wounded it has to stay in the pack or be discarded. But lets say it wasn't. She had 2 monsters she played against me and put them in her pack. Is this to keep more monsters out and more cards in her hand?

3) Movement. Not really explained in the rules anywhere! I downloaded the latest off the website and the 'how to play dungeoneer' PDF as well. Speed/Movement get VERY LITTLE explanation. It's simple enough to 'get' but really, at the very least, a paragraph explaining it would be nice.

4) Monsters in pack having hitpoints. So,.. how do you keep track of this? Use extra dice? Paper?

5) Can you take a monster that has no wound out of the pack and into your hand and then discard him during the discard phase?

I think its pretty cool so far. She says its not bad, but it's a little 'involved' - the phases of your turn, things to manage, etc. but this is her first exposure to this sort of game.

I may think of more questions. Thanks!

Thread: Re: newbie question about playing boon and treasure cards

Reprint — 2008-04-25T00:31:06+00:00

yep. That much is clear in the rules.

Thread: Re: newbie question about playing boon and treasure cards

tsievers — 2008-04-24T21:15:34+00:00

In other words, if you had in your hand a treasure card with the characteristics "Hero" and "Permanent" you could move the card from your hand to your "treasure" play area by paying the required "glory point" cost, and no movement points would have been expended by that action. (of course you'd need to have sufficient "treasure-carrying capacity" to use the card.) This interpretation is correct?

Thanks for your help!

Thread: Re: newbie question about playing boon and treasure cards

Reprint — 2008-04-24T00:42:54+00:00

Playing and readying a card are not the same thing.

Playing the card from your hand has a glory (or peril) cost.

Using a card that's already on the table does not cost a thing. Exception: monsters in your pack or whatever it's called.

Readying a card (returning it to the upright position) only happens in the Reset Phase, unless specified on the card.

During the Hero Phase,

+ moving costs 1 MP per location
+ exploring costs 1 MP per location card
+ attempting a Quest is free for the first attempt unless specified on the Quest card
+ playing an Anytime card just costs its Peril or Glory cost
+ activating the effect of a readied (unused) card is free. Not that only a card that is already on the table can be activated unless it's an anytime card (playable at any time) or an instant card (playable only at the appropriate step of the turn its played).
+ untipping your hero costs 1 MP
+ challenging a monster or another hero costs 1MP

Based on rules version 2.1.

Thread: newbie question about playing boon and treasure cards

tsievers — 2008-04-24T00:16:44+00:00

Is it necessary to pay a movement point when playing (readying) a boon or treasure card? Depending on how you read the rules, it can sound like you've got to pay a movement point for every action you take during the "hero" phase. I don't see any cost listed other than "glory points" for playing a typical boon or treasure card, but my opponent and I did differ on this question in our last game, so I'd like to hear what others think.
Thanks!

Thread: Re: deployment of a boon card...when?

TaleSpinner — 2008-03-27T04:28:00+00:00

We played it as you first described - play and discard immediately to teleport. We treat all Instant Boons the same way.

Thread: deployment of a boon card...when?

tsievers — 2008-03-27T02:22:01+00:00

I played my first game of Dungeoneer:Tomb of the Lich Lord yesterday, and have a question regarding a boon card. The card was titled, I believe, "Minor Teleport", or something to that effect. The card's characteristics were "Hero-Instant-Warp". I understand that the "Hero" characteristic means that the card must be played during my Hero phase, by paying its cost in Glory points, and that the "Instant" characteristic means it must be discarded when played. What I'm not clear on is this... During my Hero phase, when I pay the Glory points, must I teleport immediately, ie use the card as an addition to my movement for the turn (and then discard it)? OR, having paid the Glory points during my Hero phase, may I place the card in my inventory (assuming I have the carrying capacity for it), and use it in some other phase or turn of the game (eg. to escape a nasty monster played on me during an opponent's Dungeonlord phase) (and of course, then discard it)? Clarification appreciated!

Thread: Re: "Hanging out" in the Entrance

TheEye — 2008-03-12T16:00:33+00:00

During the reset phase of your turn, all spaces except the one that you are in are treated as "new" to your hero. So if you do not move from the entrance then you would gain ZERO glory and peril. Therefore you would make no progress for good or ill.

Thread: Re: attacking, counterattacking, and other rules not explained particularly well...

tjvigil66 — 2008-03-03T13:14:02+00:00

TaleSpinner wrote:
3) One official variant is to do away with the "saving a movement point for later use out-of-turn" rule and replace it with "you may Tip your hero out-of-turn to initiate an attack". I find it easier to play this way - it's much less book-keeping than the original rule. Note that you still need to spend 1 movement point to untip your hero before doing anything else on your next turn.

Ah... perfect fix!

Thread: Solitaire rules spelling error

tjvigil66 — 2008-02-28T03:55:28+00:00

A minor spelling error I caught in the Move: section...

donovani wrote:
First, resolve [BGCOLOR=#FFFF00]Instands[/BGCOLOR] and Banes. Banes that affect only Monsters or Traps remain in play and are “triggered” when an appropriate Monster or Trap is played.

Thread: Re: attacking, counterattacking, and other rules not explained particularly well...

kakupacal — 2008-02-27T01:56:18+00:00

Thanks for the replies, fellahs!

Thread: Re: attacking, counterattacking, and other rules not explained particularly well...

TaleSpinner — 2008-02-26T01:23:43+00:00

3) One official variant is to do away with the "saving a movement point for later use out-of-turn" rule and replace it with "you may Tip your hero out-of-turn to initiate an attack". I find it easier to play this way - it's much less book-keeping than the original rule. Note that you still need to spend 1 movement point to untip your hero before doing anything else on your next turn.

Thread: Re: attacking, counterattacking, and other rules not explained particularly well...

dcorban — 2008-02-25T19:34:41+00:00

kakupacal wrote:
Here are my questions:

1) when a dungeonlord uses a monster to attack and chooses its attack mode (physical vs. magic) is the hero forced to defend with the same attack mode? (magic vs. magic, etc.)

2) How and when does a monster's "counterattack" power ever come into play?

3) What is up with the kludgey system of player special attacks that require spending a movement point (out of turn) to use? I understand why this exists (for player vs. player combat) but for a hero to use movement out of turn to attack a monster that has just attacked him requires a small amount of bookkeeping that just seems weird and clunky.

1) Yes.

2) Quest based monsters and monsters that stick around can be attacked by a player and therefore need all counterattack values. There is also a variant with wandering monsters that stay on the board.

3) It is a little clunky and not explained very well. It is good to attempt to eliminate a monster now that may otherwise be used to attack you in the future. You can also attack it with a type that the monster is weak.

Thread: attacking, counterattacking, and other rules not explained particularly well...

kakupacal — 2008-02-25T15:33:32+00:00

Ugh... for a SECOND EDITION, the rulesbook in this game is an inexcusable mess.

The rules about attacking/counterattacking/special moves are particularly opaque and poorly explained (which is brutal considering that combat is 60% of the game) and are a source of endless aggravation while trying to noodle out what the designer's intent was.

Here are my questions:

1) when a dungeonlord uses a monster to attack and chooses its attack mode (physical vs. magic) is the hero forced to defend with the same attack mode? (magic vs. magic, etc.)

2) How and when does a monster's "counterattack" power ever come into play?

3) What is up with the kludgey system of player special attacks that require spending a movement point (out of turn) to use? I understand why this exists (for player vs. player combat) but for a hero to use movement out of turn to attack a monster that has just attacked him requires a small amount of bookkeeping that just seems weird and clunky.

There may be more but these are the ones that come to mind first.

Thanks!

Thread: Re: What do I do with my first edition version?

aronbc — 2008-02-13T20:37:04+00:00

I bought the 1.0 edition way back when and then some of the expansions. I have successfully mixed the two so you should be ok. Not sure why you couldn't play with a 1.0 base set and 2.0 expansions, assuming that you use shielded sleeves. IIRC 2.0 was an update to the rules and card backings, not so much the card content.

Thread: Re: What do I do with my first edition version?

allismom3 — 2008-02-13T16:26:38+00:00

Yes, the rules are too different from 1st to 2nd edition. You won't be able to mix the 2 together. With that being said I had a first ed Tomb and played it a few times, it's not terrible. The Atlas 2.0 editions are just better.

Thread: What do I do with my first edition version?

Lou-Dawg — 2008-02-13T03:02:57+00:00

I ordered Tomb and Vault here on BGG, but the seller didn't mention that the Tomb was 1.0 edition while Vault was 2.0 edition.

Can I play if I use card protectors to hide the backs of the cards? Or have the rules changed so much that Tomb 1.0 and Vault 2.0 are not compatible.

If so, would anyone like to trade my rare Citizen games version for their more common Atlas games version