Michael Webb
The People's Republic of Ann Arbor
Michigan
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Simple question here: there is a link to a French web site at the bottom of the Full Metal Planete page that includes the files necessary to print and play one's own copy of this game. Has anyone here done this, and if so, what are the dimensions of the board? I am probably going to make a copy of the game, and I would like to search the local thrift shops for a suitable board to mount the print-outs on, and it would help immensely to know what the dimensions are that I'm dealing with.
Also, if anyone else has done this, are there any other tips/pointers you can give me? This is my first time trying to use print and play files to recreate an entire board game, so any advice would be most welcome.
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Nyarlathotep
United States
Unspecified
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There may be a better method, but for counters, I recommend getting "sticker paper" for your printer, and then affixing that to whatever material you decide to use...just remember, the thicker the material, the more you will swear and yell trying to cut the damn things out.
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Michael Webb
The People's Republic of Ann Arbor
Michigan
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Actually, this is the method I was thinking of:
My Mum works at a print shop, so I have access to higher quality printing and heavier paper. I am planning to have the board printed out on fairly heavy stock, and to then mount it on a board (if I can find one of the right size) and soft laminate it for protection.
The counters I was unsure about. I was initially thinking about having them printed out on the same stock as the board, and then mounting them on medium weight cardboard and soft laminating that. Perhaps the sticker idea would be easier...I wonder about wear and tear on the pieces though.
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Nyarlathotep
United States
Unspecified
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So far, the wear and tear has been negligible...the only real issue, is that they don't look as nice as I would like...cutting by hand, and through thick stock, means quite a large variance in pieces.
Ultimately, it doesn't bother me, i just want to play, and for the most part it looks good...just not great.
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Guy Riessen
United States
petaluma
California
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Use a roller cutter or a chopping cutter to get the counters to be the exact same size. Clip the corners for a neater look. Then, once cut, spray a coat of Krylon Matte varnish--a couple light coats won't run the inks at all, even with ink jet printing. I prefer to use a matte photo paper for really sharp, nice-looking images on the counters. You'll end up with a very professional looking game.
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Shawn Low
Australia
Footscray
Victoria
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I have downloaded the files but resisted making it: after all, part of the allure of the game Full METAL Planet is the lead laced bits. : )
I'll shell out for one soon I fear.
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Michael Webb
The People's Republic of Ann Arbor
Michigan
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shawn_low wrote: I have downloaded the files but resisted making it: after all, part of the allure of the game Full METAL Planet is the lead laced bits. : )
I'll shell out for one soon I fear.
I'm not normally one to shy away from more expensive games, and if FMP were available for say, 100 or so I would not be going to this trouble, but given the incredibly high price that the game commands I just cannot justify paying that much money for a game that I a) have never played b) probably will not get a chance to play regularly anyhoo.
I do understand the temptation though, the bits have serious visual appeal 
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M C
United States
Orem
Utah
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There are 15mm SF minis out there that would probably work.
http://theminiaturespage.com/lib/index.mv?period=scf&scale=7...
And there are always legos.
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Jeffrey Vaca
United States
San Diego
California
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I wonder how difficult it would be to make resin casts of the miniatures...
I'll check it out tonight and see how well suited the pieces are.
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Hi All,
i just recognized your discussion.
Perhaps i can help you here.
If someone is interested, please send me a mail
to:
rahahome@aol.com
so it's easier to explain,
Rainer (rahahome)
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Michael Webb
The People's Republic of Ann Arbor
Michigan
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Random notes on the process
Well, here it is 6 months later, and I'm finally making progress on this project.
I recently had all of the files printed out on cardboard stock (free for me...never a bad thing) and I have just started mounting them. I went to Michael's (a US based arts and crafts store) and, after digging around and looking at the available mounting options, I went with foamboard, primarily because it is thick and stable, but also easy to cut through with an Exacto style blade, which is important because of the precision cuts I'm making. I decided to forego the normal board and to instead just go with the Plateau module because variability is never a bad thing...hence, there are many very small angle cuts, hence, the foam board thing sounded good
So far, I have the Plateau pretty much finished up...I first cut out the plateau tiles, and then mounted them onto squares of foamboard. I then did precision cuts to get the tiles all cut out, including angle cuts from the bottom of the individual tiles so they line up properly. I am quite satisfied with the way the board looks at this point, and I'm relatively confident that it will actually stay where I put it without shifting around, which was a major consideration in the backing material choice.
The counters are going to be a huge pain in the ass, but I'm sure with some patience they'll come out equally nice looking and useable (I have people in my group with fat fingers, who have trouble picking up small bits...hence, foamboard again is far superior to my other options for counter stock).
For stones I picked up a bag of polished river pebbles for a couple of bucks, most of them are the right size to fit on the board, and I'm sure there'll be enough to play.
For a timer I'm just going to pick up a digital kitchen timer.
Still not sure how I'm going to store the thing yet though...all the foamboard means it's going to have to be a reasonably large box!
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