Andrew Carlstrom
United States
San Marcos
California
-
Bitter Woods is classic hex and counter wargame, and the 4th Edition, which is the subject of this review, is one of the best looking wargames ever produced. While the game is highly rated on the 'geek, it has not previously been reviewed, which is a shame, as this is truly an exceptional wargame. This review, therefore, will be a bit lengthier than is typical, in hope of convincing others to try out this gem.
Overview:
Bitter Woods is the “final” edition of a classic wargame designed by Randy Heller. It covers the Battle of the Bulge at regimental level, starting December 16th, 1944, and ending December 26th. Unlike most Bulge games, the optional expansion (which is highly recommended) continues the battle through January 4th, so you can play the American counterattack that erases the bulge.
Complexity is scalable, starting from low/moderate complexity. The basic set of rules covers just 12 pages, with numerous examples. Optional rules and variants can add up to another 10 pages.
Components:
Just take a look at the pictures. They are phenomenal. The map is oversized, at 30”x44” and nearly the size of two standard 22”x34” wargame maps. It is made of fairly sturdy cardboard, much thicker and tougher than a typical paper wargame map, but not as sturdy as a true mounted board. Its similar to maps found in Twilight Struggle and Command & Colors: Ancients, but I think it’s a bit thicker. It is certainly more colorful, and is my favorite wargame map, period. It is very clean, and easy to read. The positions of all starting units are printed on the map, and for cities the entire hex is shaded, so even when units are there, you can tell they are in a city.
The counters are exceptional, too. They are larger than normal at 5/8”, and are very clear and easy to read. The infantry and artillery utilize standard NATO symbols, color coded by Army (as in Patton’s 3rd Army, the 5th Panzer Army, etc.). Most units have the division's historical symbol in the upper left corner, a nice touch. The armor units employ armor silhouettes, depicting the most commonly found tank type in each unit. The armor type is not just window-dressing, though, as heavy tanks like Tigers and Panthers cannot cross un-bridged rivers. Fortunately, the armor silhouettes are easy to recognize, as they are really small works of art. The fall/winter camouflage is just stunning.
The Orders of Battle for each army are indicated on oversized, glossy, full color sheets. They hold all the units that enter as reinforcements, and are made of sturdy cardstock. The rulebook in the base game is black and white, but very clear and well written. Buy the expansion, as the rulebook is further refined and in full color.
Additionally, the game comes with a 27 page Players Handbook, with historical articles and analysis on Peiper’s detachment, artillery in the Ardennes (the “queen of the battlefield”) and several additional scenarios including one that allows the players to focus on Patton’s counterattack and relief of Bastogne.
Suffice it to say, L2 did not cut any corners on this one. If you are a wargamer and haven’t seen an L2 game yet, prepare to be impressed.
Mechanics:
The game ranges from low to moderate complexity. The basic game, which offers just enough chrome to keep the grognards happy, is simple enough for a non-wargamer to appreciate. The optional and variant rules can be added on to your taste. The game uses many standard wargame mechanics, including units rated on combat strength and movement, zones of control, supply lines, and a combat results table (CRT).
Combat Units:
Units come in several varieties: infantry, mechanized infantry, armor, artillery (both gun-tube and rocket), and a few aircraft (which are represented somewhat abstractly). In addition to combat strength and movement points (hereafter, “MP’s”), combat units are rated on “endurance.” Endurance ratings represent a unit’s staying power, morale, and level of equipment and training all rolled together; essentially, how “elite” they are (in pics: the center number in the colored box).
Combat ratings range from 3, for an essentially conscript German regiment, to 15 for the awesome SS Pieper detachment of Tiger tanks. Movement values range from 3 MP’s for ground-pounder German infantry, 4 MP’s for most tank/panzer units and American Infantry (thanks to trucks) and 5 MP’s, for recon units and Pieper. Endurance ratings range from 2, again for German conscripts, to 6 for Pieper. Standard line troops have a 4 endurance rating, and elite troops, like the 101st and 82nd airborne are rated a 5.
Most units have two sides. When a unit suffers attrition (i.e. takes damage) it is flipped to its weaker side, with a reduced combat value. At that point another hit will eliminate it.
Movement:
The Battle of the Bulge took place in the heavily wooded Ardennes region. The Wehrmarcht selected this region precisely because it was so hostile to the movement of a large number of tanks, and therefore an attack there would likely surprise the Allies (it did, as it had during the attack on France four years earlier).
The map, therefore, is almost entirely covered in lightly or heavily wooded terrain, which costs mechanized/armor units two movement points per hex. With MP’s of 4, you can see a cross-country breakthrough is not too likely. Ah, but the road net is fairly well developed in this area. On a road, armor can move four hexes for each MP, so a panzer's range is 16 hexes, instead of 2 in the woods. Success in the Battle of the Bulge is entirely dependant on the German’s ability to seize, or the American ability to retain control of, the road net.
Hence the importance of Bastogne, a central road-hub and meeting point of six roads.
One other movement oriented rule that is important: exploitation. Both players can place some of their mechanized units “in reserve” instead of moving or attacking with them. They are then released after the combat phase to exploit (i.e. move through) newly created holes in the enemy line. A simple, but potentially devastating, game mechanic and battlefield tactic.
Zones of Control:
The game includes typical zone of control rules (for non-grognards, a ZOC is simply the six hexes that surround each unit, and represents their ability to fire into adjacent hexes, thus pinning enemy units). Your units must stop as soon as they move adjacent to an enemy unit. They can leave a ZOC freely, but cannot move from ZOC to ZOC of the same unit. This becomes VERY important for the American player for the first half of the game when they are trying to plug very large gaps in the line with just a few units. It also serves as an effective way to destroy enemy units, as units cannot retreat into a ZOC. So an effective tactic to overcome units too powerful to destroy head-on is to surround them and force a retreat.
Combat:
Grognard speak: Combat is a typical combat strength comparison, rounded down to a simple ratio, and a die roll on a CRT.
Non-grognard speak: To attack, simply add the combat strengths of all attacking units (you must be adjacent to an enemy to attack, except for artillery). Then total the combat values of the defenders. Express the difference as a ratio, dropping any fractions. For example, if 14 factors are attacking 5, the odds are 2:1. If 15 factors attack 5, odds are 3:1. Next, roll a six sided die and consult the Combat Results Table (“CRT”). The CRT lists odds across the top, and a die roll of 1 to 6 down the side. Obviously, higher odds attacks are more likely to succeed. So, for example, if you attack at 3:1, and roll a 2 (low rolls are better in this game) then the result is “D2,” which means the defender must retreat two hexes.
The combatant’s endurance rating (“ER”) effects the combat as well. The side with the highest ER in the combat gets a modifier on the die roll (defenders want high rolls and get a +1, attackers want to roll low and get a -1).
The CRT in this game is fairly unique in its number of possible outcomes. This isn’t simply a 'retreat or kill' result CRT. Results other than the standard 'force-a-retreat or damage an enemy unit' include:
--Counter-attack: the defender is obligated to either return fire on their turn or vacate the position they are defending.
--Engaged: both attacker and defender are locked in place. Attacker must attack again next turn.
--Fire Fight: both sides suffer one loss (flip a unit to reduced side)
--Suppressing Fire: no effect.
--Lengthy retreat: The CRT calls for retreats up to 4 hexes in length. The attacker can then advance just as far. Critically, the attacker’s first advance must be into the defender’s hex, but thereafter they can go in any direction. This is often a more desirable outcome than killing the defender in place, as it serves to exploit through an otherwise unbroken line.
Artillery:
Artillery is often over looked in wargames, and is sometimes viewed as “unglamorous.” But in reality, artillery was exceeding effective in WWII and caused a huge number of casualties (more so, I believe, than smalls arms fire).
In Bitter Woods, artillery gets the respect it deserves. The mechanics to use it are exceedingly simple, but effective. Artillery has a range of four hexes. Its combat strength can be added to any unit in range, whether on attack or defense. Simple enough, but when you have several artillery units supporting you, a devastating 6:1 attack can easily be chopped down to a barely acceptable 2:1.
American artillery shows its clear superiority in Bitter Woods (one of the few arms that the US easily outclassed the Wehrmarcht, the other being airpower). In BW, American artillery can move and fire in the same turn, and can fire both offensively and defensively in a turn. German artillery, on the other hand, was primarily horse drawn and can only move OR attack, and can only move 4 hexes even on a road (US artillery can move 16!) It won’t be long before the German player is absolutely cursing the American artillery, and just dying to break through the lines to get to, and destroy, them. As for the German artillery, during the early turns when the entire line is pushing ahead, it will struggle just to keep up and will rarely get to fire.
Fortunately, the German’s have a special rocket artillery ("Nebelwerfers")that is more mobile than the gun-tube artillery, and very powerful on attack. Some of these units have the offensive strength of two infanty regiments, but they all defend at “1”. Be careful with them.
Supply:
Supply also, follows typical wargame rules, with degraded unit performance but no elimination.
Non-grognard speak: each unit must trace a path back to an imaginary off-board supply source. Basically, you just need to have a path unblocked by enemy units (or their ZOC’s!) back to a game board edge.
If you cannot trace supply at the beginning of your turn, out of supply units have their MP’s halved, combat strengths halved for attack, and their endurance rating reduced by one.
Other cool stuff:
Obviously, there are other important rules, some of which I’ll simply mention. One such rule is a first turn surprise round where the Germans get a surprise advantage to combat, offset by some traffic congestion that slows them down.
A favorite mechanic of mine is bridge demolition. This is a godsend to the Americans early on, and to the Germans later in the battle. Suffice it to say, a bridge demolition cannot take place until an enemy unit is on your doorstep, and its not a sure thing. Bridge demo rolls are among the most tense and exciting in the game, and are an important way to slow down the Germans. Remember Pieper and his 15 combat strength? Those heavy panzers simply cannot cross an un-bridged river. Imagine a lonely 4 strength airborne regiment staring down Pieper’s Tigers as they approach. “Get out there and blow that bridge, Private Ryan!”
Airpower is represented abstractly. On the turn record track, the number of available airpower points is indicated. It starts low, at 2 points for each side each turn, then drops to zero for about half the game (reflecting the poor weather). When the weather clears, around Christmas, the Allies quickly establish air superiority and start to get 5, 6, or 7 air points to the Germans 1 or 2.
Airpower works like this: each airpower point can be assigned to an onboard combat. Whomever assign airpower gets a shift of one column on the CRT to their favor (i.e. a 2:1 attack where the attacker adds in air becomes 3:1.) If both players assign air, they cancel each other out. The attacker assigns first, followed by the defender. Trust me, the assignment of airstrikes makes for some tension filled decisions!
Optional Rules:
There are many optional rules and variants to choose from, including divisional integrity bonuses, an SS Panzer Scare rule, Attrition, Attack on the Move, Inter-Allied cooperation, fuel dumps, etc. I will highlight just one: Leaders.
In the base game, any mechanized unit can be placed in reserve in order to move after the initial combat round. When using the Leader option, a leader must stacked with a unit in reserve in order to “release” that unit to move. Additionally, units with leaders can choose to suffer additional attrition rather than retreat, a useful ability when trying to hold an important position. Leaders add just a small amount of rules complexity but add a great deal of color to the game.
Gameplay:
Okay, so there are some classic wargame mechanics with some cool twists, but how does it play?
This game is a true brain-burner, and it is somewhat lengthy. Both sides get to attack and defend in the campaign scenario. Other scenarios are available for “short” 4-6 hour games, while the campaign will take two or three times as long- unless you play fast.
There are just SO MANY possible strategies. One of the great things about wargames generally is that the put very few artificial constraints on your actions. The sheer number of choices can be daunting. Should I follow the historic path and attack just north of the Bastogne line? Should I head further north to Liege and lay it all on the line to cross the Meuse for a quick victory?...but if I fail, my flanks will be badly exposed. Should I move forward and grab the three key cities of St. Vith, Bastogne, and Marche, and try to hold a line on the Meuse?
Tactically, the game is even richer. In the first 6 or 7 days (until Patton and other reinforcements arrive on December 22nd) the American’s are hard pressed to stem the German tide. And yet, it is incredibly gratifying to find just the right spot to cut a critical road junction, while remaining in a strong defensive position. There is something very satisfying about slowing down an entire panzer corps with one infantry regiment, and surviving to pull back and do it again.
As the German player, you enjoy nearly overwhelming forces at the start. But you WILL feel the pressure to push, and keep pushing. Every turn is like a drum-beat. The U.S. reinforcements just keep coming. The first thing you will notice is the slow and steady build-up of that confounded artillery behind the American line. Damn them! Eventually it gets tough to successfully attack anywhere. Then, starting around December 22 (a bit more than half way through the game) Patton’s third Army arrives in the south and some elite British Guards units come in to the north.
By Christmas time the Allies are on the attack, and the Germans start to feel the pressure. But the Germans don’t enjoy unbelievably powerful artillery to back them up, and worse, the American P-47’s and British Typhoons are free to roam in the clear weather. Dig in, blow those bridges you worked so hard to capture before they were blown, and hope for more bad weather (you won’t get it).
There is one thing folks should be aware of: downtime, though this is very much up to the players. The game doesn’t not use any random chit activation or other mechanic to keep the turns short. It also has fixed starting positions, relatively low unit counts, and odds-based combat. If you or your opponent are really competitive, you might take a long time to move and maximize each attack. What I mean is some players will avoid attacking with 14 points against 4 (thereby “wasting” the 2 points, since 12 to 4 gets you an attack on the 3:1 column, and 14 to 4 is still 3:1). Instead, they will move a bunch of guys around (remember 16 hex movement along roads) to make sure each and every attack is exactly 3:1 or 4:1 etc. This can really slow the game down. If both players enjoy that style of game play, no problem. But for others, it can be pretty slow. Some folks describe the play as “chess-like.” Of course, a timer or gentleman’s agreement to keep the turn’s reasonable addresses this nicely, but this can still be a lengthy game.
Solitaire play:
Also, this is a great solitaire game, as each side has very different challenges in the first half of the game, then they reach a certain parity for a few turns, followed by a reversal of roles. Additionally, solitaire gaming plays to the game's strengths (brain burning turns, asymmetrical forces and tactics) and minimize its only weakness (downtime) since it is always your turn.
Replayability is very high, due to the large number of different scenarios (particularly when you add the expansion, which is pretty much a must for such a great game).
The final word.
This is the 11th highest ranked wargame in the BGG database. In my opinion it deserves that lofty reputation and more. Its production values are off-the-chart. Its mechanics are simple and won’t have your nose in the rulebook the entire game. It is well balanced, and it’s a 4th edition, so it is highly polished and “clean.” It tells a great “story” and will sweep you up in that story. Mostly, its just damn fun.
edited for typos, clarity etc.
-
Mike Windsor
United States
Fort Worth
Texas
-
I've been interested, but its been out of print for quite a while. Great review, by the way.
-
Andrew Carlstrom
United States
San Marcos
California
-
mwindsor wrote: I've been interested, but its been out of print for quite a while. Great review, by the way.
Not so, the L2 Design version that I reviewed is in print and easy to find.
-
Accipe gaudium ex vestri victorias. Accipe lectiones ex vestri damnis.
United States
38.978164N 76.486881W
Maryland
-
Knockout review. Thank you for bringing this game to my attention.
Sag.
-
Greg Teemer
United States
Prosper
Texas
-
Thanks for answering my post about its playability as a solitaire game.
Great review!! You have convincingly persuaded me to purchase this along with its expansion.
Thanks again!!
-
Leo Zappa
United States
Aliquippa
Pennsylvania
-
This may be the best review I've ever read here. I am now putting this on my "buy" list! Thanks!!!
-
Steve Herron
United States
Johnson City
Tennessee
-
I got the first edition by Avalon Hill last year but have not played it yet. Is there a big difference between it and the L2 4th edition? I can see the counters are better looking in the L2 edition. A very well done review. Back in the 70's when we would get a big snow (live in Tennessee so we don't see many big snows), I would get the urge to play a Bulge game.
-
John Bohrer
United States
Pittsburgh
Pennsylvania
-
Bitter Woods 4th ed. is a marvelous wargame with stunning graphics. I have had the chance to play it perhaps 30 times and find it very well done, with a fine rulebook and beautifully done counters that can be read by old guys like myself.
-
Brian Sinclair
United States
Grand Rapids
Michigan
-
Great review. I have to agree that this may be the best review that I've read. I've sent you a
 for your efforts.
I do have two questions
1) Can the expansion be used with the 2nd Edition from MMP?
2) Since I am just reading the rules I don't completely understand the turns. Do the Germans go first in the first phase followed by the allies and then move on to the next phase OR do the Germans do all the phases followed by the Allies?
Thank you,
Brian Sinclair
-
Andrew Carlstrom
United States
San Marcos
California
-
Brian Sinclair wrote: Great review. I have to agree that this may be the best review that I've read. I've sent you a for your efforts. I do have two questions 1) Can the expansion be used with the 2nd Edition from MMP? 2) Since I am just reading the rules I don't completely understand the turns. Do the Germans go first in the first phase followed by the allies and then move on to the next phase OR do the Germans do all the phases followed by the Allies? Thank you, Brian Sinclair
Thanks Brian!
I haven't played the 2nd edition, so I'm afraid I can't answer that. In terms of your second question, the Germans do all their phases, then the Allies do all theirs.
-
Guy Riessen
United States
petaluma
California
-
Excellent review of a fantastic game!
This is a great step-up to "real" wargames for people interested in looking a little deeper than Memoir 44--grab the 4th edition while it is still easy to find, because it won't last that way for long.
Can't believe it hadn't been reviewed before--I'm guilty of not noticing that fact, although I'm sure I looked it up here since I purchased the 4th edition just a couple years ago when I discovered my AH edition had vanished at some point.
-
-
My boyfriend is a fanatical wargame player, but he already owns like half a dozen Bulge games. Would he still be happy to receive Bitter Woods as a surprise Valentine's gift?
-
-
Yah, I reckon he'd like it. You can never have enough wargames on the battle du jour.
-
-
GREAT review, on my to-buy-asap-list.
Just one question: From BBG I see that the game can be played by 2-4 players. As there are just two sides, how is the game played with 3 or 4 players?
-
Andrew Carlstrom
United States
San Marcos
California
-
Hi Andre.
Sorry for the delayed response, I just saw your question.
Splitting the sides up is done in the typical wargame fashion (divide up each army arbitrarily). I've never tried team play, and don't recall and multi-player rules.
-
Nick West
Scotland
Colinton
Edinburgh
-
Nice job - I am a little slow to respond but a couple of questions as I have been wary of Bulge games on the whole thus far.
1). Is there a real Bulge? In too many games the US have no incentive to hold the flanks so it quickly loses any connection with history.
2). Is the weather randomised or historical? Would seem a little odd to have advanced knowledge of when the clear weather is coming or not. Especially if German and without any advanced Atlantic weather info.
3). Is Army, Corp and Division integrity important? Historically until Monty sorted out the Corp organisation of the US on the northern flank of the Bulge they were in chaos.
4). What are the victory conditions and how realistic are they? Historically the Germans have no chance to win a strategic victory and too many Bulge games suffer in how they use this foreknowledge when the Germans historically had to really go for it.
I like the sound of the game but just too many Bulge games have an exagerated view of US fighting capability. IMO it was a first class operational disaster for the Allies (if an inevitable strategic German defeat before it even started) and yet somehow never comes across like that in many wargames.
Nick
-
Andrew Carlstrom
United States
San Marcos
California
-
Nick, sorry for the delayed response. I keep meaning to log in from home so I can have the rulebooks in front of me when I answer. I keep forgetting, so I'll do the best I can to answer off the top of my head.
notquitekarpov wrote:
1). Is there a real Bulge? In too many games the US have no incentive to hold the flanks so it quickly loses any connection with history.
Yes, there is definitely a bulge. The Allies generally hold the Northern shoulder at Liege (sometimes just in front of the city). In the south, the Allies usually hold just south of Bastogne (which will likely fall). The Germans, however, will advance to, and through (if they are headed to victory) Marche in the middle.
Quote: 2). Is the weather randomised or historical? Would seem a little odd to have advanced knowledge of when the clear weather is coming or not. Especially if German and without any advanced Atlantic weather info.
Weather only impacts airpower, which is predetermined. Both sides know what's coming.
Quote: 3). Is Army, Corp and Division integrity important? Historically until Monty sorted out the Corp organisation of the US on the northern flank of the Bulge they were in chaos.
Divisional intregrity is an optional rule. If you attack or defend using most of the units of a division, you get a bonus.
Quote: 4). What are the victory conditions and how realistic are they? Historically the Germans have no chance to win a strategic victory and too many Bulge games suffer in how they use this foreknowledge when the Germans historically had to really go for it.
There are several levels of victory for both sides, and this is really where I wanted the rulebook in front of me for my response.
Basically, for the Germans to win decisively and immediately, they need to control St. Vith, Bastonge, and Marche, and force across the Meuse (and exit the northern map edge) the equivalent of a Panzer corps. A lessor level of victory requires the holding of those cites at the end of the game and having a foothold on the Meuse. Still lessor levels require only control of two of the victory cities, but the Germans must hold some advanced positions on the Meuse. The Allies gain victory for denying the German conditions and reconquering the two or three of the victory cities.
Are these realistic? That's a hard question. The Germans had no real chance to achieve their objective of splitting the Allies and reaching Antwerp. They lost before they attacked. If you measure the player's performance against historical performance of the Germans, then they are realistic (i.e. the player must do better than history to win).
Quote: I like the sound of the game but just too many Bulge games have an exagerated view of US fighting capability. IMO it was a first class operational disaster for the Allies (if an inevitable strategic German defeat before it even started) and yet somehow never comes across like that in many wargames.
I don't think this one exagerates the US capability much. The US artillery is absolutely devastating, and airpower influential later in the battle, but the Wermarcht easily outclasses the US ground troops...particularly in armor.
-
Dan Edwards
United States
Shoreline
Washington
-
I'd say the game captures the flavor of the historical US defense, with some formations folding quickly, and here and there a regiment holding on against heavy odds for a few turns to confound the Germans.
It's hard to convey how gorgeous this game is with mere pictures or descriptions. If you are used to SPI style graphics and components, DBW is the Orion Slave Girl of War games. Odd, that a game covering such a horrific event is so pretty.
DBW won't satisfy the UberGrog looking for a treatise on the carrying capacity of Main Supply Routes during the Ardennes Winter and the effect that German maintenance problems had on Panzer division combat efficiency, nor will the (for a war game) stunning components make BGG non grogs drop their sheep and spices to take up Garands and MP-40s.
It is a good contest for those familiar with hex and counter war games, with an accurate enough OOB and flow of play to make it feel historical. I wouldn't recommend it as an introduction to war games, but it's a fine example for those so inclined. I enjoy my copy, and sometimes set it up just to marvel at the look of it, proving to my bride that I need psychiatric help.
-
Andrew Carlstrom
United States
San Marcos
California
-
Dan, I agree with you 100%.
This won't win over the Euro gamer with either its components or its gameplay. But for wargamers, it is a must own title. For those interested in trying a wargame, its a pretty good place to start if you have someone with some experience to help you...or if you play the basic no frills version and are pretty brave of heart.
-
Jens Hoppe
Denmark
Frederiksberg
What are you, like 80?
It's not the years, honey, it's the mileage.
-
I think this is just about the best game review I have ever seen on the 'geek. Well done, Cleitus.
-
-
Wonderful review. I've duly added this game to my wishlist.
-
Skip Franklin
United States
Oklahoma City
OK
-
The Expansion
Note: The Expansion rulebook was put together by none other than Mark Simonitch, the designer of Ardennes '44. He did a very good job with formatting and color. This change makes the rulebook much easier to read and consult during play. I highly recommend the Bitter Woods (4th Edition) Expansion Kit. Will it mate up with the 2nd Edition? you should be able to use the extra counters and rules. The map does not change betweeen editions as far as I remember (currently at work and can't check). The expanded rules are for clean up of previous editions and rules for the extra counters used in the expanded dates of play.
-
John G
United States
Salt Lake City
Utah
-
Phenomenal review, Andrew. I'm not a grognard, but this review makes me wish I was.
-
Jim O'Neill (Established 1949)
Scotland
Motherwell
I aten't dead yet...
-
Andrew,
I have purchased this game and its expansion along with about 200 counter sleds (from RDOXX) based solely on your review.
I am not disappointed.
Regards,
Jim O'Neill
Est. 1949
-
Michael Taylor
United States
Aurora
Indiana
-
This is the problem that I have with many Bulge games. There are too many roads. All the descriptions are about how it is a difficult area and difficult for armor, and then you look at the map and there are roads in every hex! That is not difficult terrain.
By looking at the pictures, it seems as if there are a lot of roads. Is that the case? I've read this review a couple of times, and the game is on my list to get eventually, but the issue of the roads really bothers me. There should be certain important roads, and other secondary roads, but every goat path through the woods shouldn't be labeled as a road.
Thanks,
Mike
-
|
|
Posted Fri Jan 26, 2007 5:29 pm
