Steve Sisk
United States
Rochester
New York
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Being a compulsive DIY'er, I had no choice but to make a custom box for my copy of TA: A6B. In addition, I wanted to make a custom quad-fold board on which to mount the map for the game. In this thread, I'm going to post everything you'll need to know to do the same! I'll include the exact materials and dimensions that you'll need, and links to complete tutorials on how to complete each step of the process.
BOARD
The first step is to determine the sizes of components needed. The basis for this is the game board. If you leave the board folded in half, the box would be far larger than it really needs to be. In addition, the artwork for it wouldn't fit on tabloid paper, so the cost of output would skyrocket! For that reason, I went with a quad fold board (no gutters, of course!). Don't be scared, they really aren't hard to make.
Of course the board has to be fully case-wrapped (paper from one side wraps around the edges and the opposing face is applied). Since the map doesn't have enough extra material at the edges to wrap around to the back of the board, the backing will have to wrap around to the front. That means that the board will need to be .25" larger ON EACH EDGE than the artwork for the front. Since the artwork is 11" x 17", the board will need to be 11.5" x 17.5". Cut each dimension in half to determine the size of each board needed and you get the following:
(4) 5.75" x 8.75" boards
A note on the material of the boards: I used simple 2-ply chipboard (also called box-board). You can also use Davey board (also called bookbinder's board), but this is far more expensive and really not needed for a good board.
BACKING
I used simple black art paper (Fadeless brand paper), you can use whatever color or paper you want. You don't want anything too thick, just plain art paper is fine. Note that you will need to reinforce the hinges with hinge tape (also called bookbinder's tape) to be sure it doesn't split with use.
The facing that wraps around the boards needs to have an extra inch ON EACH SIDE, so you will need the following:
(1) 13.5" x 19.5" backing paper.
Here's a shot of the boards, backing and artwork for my board (before assembly). Note that I already have my corners trimmed at 45 degree angles to facilitate the wrapping.
Here's a link to a full tutorial on how to assemble the board with these materials:
http://www.bgdf.com/tiki/tiki-index.php?page=Making+Game+Boa...
BOX
The dimensions of the box are based on the size of the board (when folded). The folded board will measure 5.75" x 8.75". To determine the size of the box bottom, we add .125" to each dimension (not to each side). So the box bottom will measure 5.875" x 8.875".
The minimum depth of a box that will have an insert and will contain both a die and a quad-fold board is 1.125". Since, there's no need to go deeper than that, we'll use that as the box depth. We add that to EACH SIDE of the box bottom dimensions to get the overall size of chipboard needed for the box bottom. Using that formula we get:
(1) 8.125" x 11.125" single-ply chipboard.
No need to go thicker than single ply. You can also use illustration board (or even cheap matte board). Each will be slightly thicker than single-ply chipboard, but will very likely not affect the way the artwork wrap fits.
For the box top, we take the size of the box bottom and add .1875" to the shorter side and .25" to the longer side. The .25" allows a little extra give to the side that will have the extra flaps of paper wrapped onto them. That means the box top will be 9.125" x 6.0625". The box top has the same depth as the bottom, so we need the following:
(1) 11.375" x 8.3125" single-ply chipboard.
Here's a link to a full tutorial for assembling the box: http://www.bgdf.com/tiki/tiki-index.php?page=Making+Set-up+B...
Note: You can ignore the cutting fence, scoring tool, and gapping materials (unless you want to make a ton of boxes all the same size). You only need a cutting mat, metal edge ruler, and Xacto knife to cut the chipboard to size. Then use the Xacto knife to score (not cut all the way through) the sides and follow the tutorial for finishing.
BOX ARTWORK
Now that you've got the box done, you'll need to print out and wrap the artwork. The artwork I used can be found here:
http://www.boardgamegeek.com/file/info/29466
Note that the pages are set to print on tabloid (11" x 17") paper so that it will fit in one piece. I had mine output at a local office store so that it would be laser output. The oil fuser they use makes the image highly water resistant and durable. That means I don't have to laminate the box when I'm done (and neither will you!). NOTE: ink from an inkjet printer will most likely be water soluble, so you will need to protect it with a laminate or spray sealant of some kind.
Carefully cut out the artwork as follows:
1) Cut along the short edges following the crop marks.
2) Trim along the flaps that will wrap around the edge following the red line and crop marks.
3) Cut along the long edges following the crop marks.
4) Cut the flaps for the short edge using the point of the angled red line and the crop marks.
5) Cut out the last of the artwork using the short leg of the angled red lines.
Here's a link to the original size image in my user gallery: http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/288750?size=original
Ensure that you are applying the correct artwork to the correct box piece (top art to the box top etc.). Dry fit the artwork and the box to be sure that the box fits within the central portion of the artwork. Use a pencil and mark where the box fits on the back (blank side) of the artwork. Also use an arrow to mark the orientation of the box and the artwork (in case it doesn't fit the same when rotated).
Here's the tricky part!!!! Apply spray glue to the back of the artwork and apply it to the box. Feel free to practice with some blank paper and a spare box.
To apply the artwork to the box, place the artwork GLUE SIDE FACING UP onto your clean work surface. Carefully set the box (one corner at a time) onto the artwork using your pencil marks as a guide.
Once it's on, press the inside of the box firmly onto the glue. Roll the box onto one of the LONG edges and press. Wrap the small flaps around the corners of the box and press firmly. Wrap the excess over the long edge of the box and crease firmly into the corners. Be careful not to rip the paper as you're pushing it into the corner. There will be a small amount of excess in the short flap on the inside of the box, just press it firmly along the inside of the box.
Repeat for the other long edge. Then fold over each of the short edges and press firmly into place.
That's it, you're done with one part of the box! Now do it again for the other part of the box! Here's what yours should look like:
INSERT
The last thing you'll need is a nice insert to act as a shelf for the game board. Trust me, you don't want to put the game board at the bottom of a box just barely big enough to hold it. Just ask anyone who bought a copy of Bootleggers.
I like using cheap white matte board for my inserts (illustration board or even single-ply chip board will work too). You'll need the following:
(1) 5.8125" x 11.3125" white matte board
Since this type of board doesn't fold well without scoring it first, you'll need to score it at the following points:
.6875", 2.1875", 2.8125", 8.625", 9.25", and 10.75"
You're probably wondering if you should score the lines on the front or the back, right? That's where it can get tricky. If you want to simply score and fold (folding away from the score... you'll see what I mean), then score the front for the first, second, fifth, and sixth cuts. Then score the third and fourth on the back and everything should fold nicely into place.
If you don't want the scoring to be visible, then score all of them along the back. You can't fold in the same direction as a score unless you first remove some of the material from either edge of the score in question. So, for the first, second, fifth, and sixth cuts, you will need to take your Xacto knife and carefully cut a "V" shape along the score (being careful not to cut through to the front of your insert). It takes some practice to get it just right. Use enough pressure to bend the blade slightly, but not enough to snap it!
And that's it, put your insert into your box bottom and you're done!
Edited to insert missing image!
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Ryan Powers
United States
Marble
Minnesota
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I was hoping for a post like this after seeing the images show up.
In fact, I was planning to ask you for advice, particularly on the board, but was in no hurry as I don't have my copy yet (just ordered it a few days ago).
SiskNY wrote:
This link doesn't seem to be working for me though. 
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Steve Sisk
United States
Rochester
New York
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Thanks! I've been planning this for a few days, just waiting for a few images to show up in my user gallery. I'm still waiting on one more image, but decided to get the bulk of it out anyway.
The BGDF links didn't work for me either at first (timed out or something), but after I opened the BGDF home page the links from here worked. Not sure why, I know the BGDF links from usually take a while to open. If you can open the BGDF home page, you can navagate to the tutorials under the wiki home page. The first one is Making Game Boards Without Gutters. The second one is Making Set-Up Boxes (both are under prototyping).
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BJ
Canada
London
Ontario
"It's a Sicilian message. It means Luci Brasi sleeps with the fishes."
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Wow! That looks amazing, you did a tremendous job!!
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Sean Dooley
United States
Cincinnati
Ohio
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I assume the instructions do not fit into the box? If so, how do they?
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Dean Longo
United States
Bayville
New Jersey
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That really is an incredible job. I wish I had the commitment to put together something like that. Heck, you should sell them...I would buy one....!
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Steve Sisk
United States
Rochester
New York
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wittdooley wrote: I assume the instructions do not fit into the box? If so, how do they?
I forgot to mention the rules! If you fold them in half (5.5" x 8.5") they will fit in the box with everything else.
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Bill Wood
United States
Eden
North Carolina
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Surely there must be a source to buy blank boxes suitable for games.
I have a great desire to convert magazine games to boxed games; of course I would scan the mag cover, print in color, and apply it to the box.
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Rob Rob
United States
La Mesa
California
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Wilhammer wrote: Surely there must be a source to buy blank boxes suitable for games.
If you find one let me know.
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Bill Wood
United States
Eden
North Carolina
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http://www.papermart.com/templates/41-0-80.htm
For SPI sized boxes, this selection looks good;
HI-WALL 13in high 8in wide 3in deep 50ea/case 17 $44.50 per case
Lids are 32.67 per 50 unit case.
I suppose I should write them to make sure it is not going to be a 13 inches TALL box, 3 inches deep, and thus suitable for a giant pack of cigarettes!
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Chris Wimbrow
United States
Powell
Tennessee
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Here's a source for boxes that came up in a discussion of DTP game storage at ConsimWorld.
http://www.uline.ca/Browse_Listing_1404.asp?desc=Literature+...
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Steve Sisk
United States
Rochester
New York
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Wilhammer wrote: I suppose I should write them to make sure it is not going to be a 13 inches TALL box, 3 inches deep, and thus suitable for a giant pack of cigarettes!
It looks from the image that this is the case, though I can't say for sure.
bltzlfsk wrote: Here's a source for boxes that came up in a discussion of DTP game storage at ConsimWorld.
VERY cool link, I use boxes like these all the time to store prototype cards!
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Torsten Meckel-Hartmann
Germany
Kaltenkirchen
Schleswig-Holstein
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Thank you for the detailed and precise blueprints. I just finished mine, and while not as perfect as yours, it still looks great.
Thank you again for a wonderful piece of work!
Torsten
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Wes
United States
Illinois
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the link the the detailed articles are down so, here they are!
Boards without gutters: http://archive.bgdf.com/tiki-index.php?page=Making+Game+Boar...
Telescoping Boxes:
http://archive.bgdf.com/tiki-index.php?page=Making+Set-up+Bo...
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Wes,
There seems to be something wrong with the first link as well... Does anyone know where to find the article on boards without gutters?
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Jason Spears
United States
Saint Joseph
Michigan
I would do all the things I have ever dreamed of doing. I would love to become a professional whistler.I'm pretty amazing at it now, but I wanna get, like, even better. Make my living out of it.
Bffffttt, Pffffttt, Buuuuurtt........
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garion wrote: Wes,
There seems to be something wrong with the first link as well... Does anyone know where to find the article on boards without gutters?
I think BGDF is having trouble with their website. Try the above links again, but if that doesn't work, I printed the page to pdf so you can view it.
The tutorial used to have pictures and those were very helpful, so hopefully it will be back up soon.
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Jason,
Thx for the pdf file! Downloaded and saved.
Meanwhile the website is available again (although still without pictures)...
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David Short
United States
Tucson
Arizona
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LeRevetir wrote:
Thanks for posting the new links. I just wish the pictures on the links would work now. Sigh.
Also, thanks to Sisk for the great tuturial. Much appreciated.
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Ron K
United States
Marcellus
New York
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SiskNY's BGDF box and board tutorial with pictures:
http://www.bgdf.com/node/875
Note: You need to be a logged in member to see the pics in the article. (thanks for verifying spearjr)
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Jason Spears
United States
Saint Joseph
Michigan
I would do all the things I have ever dreamed of doing. I would love to become a professional whistler.I'm pretty amazing at it now, but I wanna get, like, even better. Make my living out of it.
Bffffttt, Pffffttt, Buuuuurtt........
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RaDiKal wrote: What am I doing wrong? I don't see any pictures.
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Rob Koch
United States
Omaha
Nebraska
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Does anyone know what the weight is of art paper? I can't find a local source for the rolls (without ordering). Any suggestions for substitutions?
Thanks,
Rob
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Steve Sisk
United States
Rochester
New York
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The art paper is fairly thin, nothing fancy. It's about the same thickness as your average quality wrapping paper. You can in fact use wrapping paper instead if you prefer.
I used the Fadeless paper that is pretty readily available in most craft and art stores.
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Mark Llewellyn
United Kingdom
Telford
Shropshire
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anyone got this in a pdf with pics as they arenot on the website any longer ?
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I am also looking for the pdf files, specially in the box...
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Posted Sat Jan 12, 2008 2:38 am
