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Subject: HOW TO PAINT A TERMINATOR IN 15 MINUTES. rss

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THE JTSPECIAL-OID
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HOW TO PAINT A TERMINATOR IN 15 MINUTES.

I bought 1st edition Space Hulk 20 years ago, and tempted by the pictures on the box, wanted to paint mine too. I bought some paint and brushes, got cracking, and ended up with something that looked like crap!
Since then, I´ve learned a lot about miniature painting, along the way painting more little men than you could shake a stick at! I´ve always felt that the creative part of cutting and glueing, creating unique figures was more exciting than painting, so over the years I´ve been looking for ways to rationalize the process. I´ve learned and practiced the "classic" ways of shading and highlighting, but a lot happens in 20 years...
Job, girlfriend and a baby girl equals a LOT less time than in my carefree (wasted?) youth, so anything that speeds up the painting process is a good thing.

The method I present here, apart from being a quick way of painting, is so simple, that anyone can do it! (I dare you to prove me wrong!)

You´ll need a couple of brushes, a handfull of paints, and a dipping medium. (more on that later)

I´m using a variation on the dipping process, that I like to refer to as "the Heroscape method". You see, Heroscape figures are cast in a plastic that has what will end up being the dominant colour of the figure. It then has details painted in, and is then dipped in a shading varnish. GW figures are usually cast in a light grey, so after assembly, I´ll basecoat them in what will end up being the most visible colour on the figure.

Since the Space Hulk Terminators are cast in a red plastic, there´s no need to undercoat them. (you can if you want to, for a slightly better looking result) I´ve simply painted directly on the figures as they are.



Stage one:
While still on the sprue, I roughly drybrushed all the parts orange. Drybrushing means dipping your (large) brush in the paint, wiping most of it off, and then carefully painting over you figure. This means the paint will only hit raised areas of the figure, creating an instant highlight. If you´ve already removed your figures from the sprues, don´t worry, you can still drybrush them individually, it just takes a little more time.
Colour used was Games Workshop FOUNDATION paint Macharius Solar orange.



Stage two:
Then you paint any details in the appropriate colour! I decided to keep it (relatively) simple, and only used the following colours:
-Gold, used for most of the details, like skulls, blood drops and eagles.
-Silver, used for metal parts on weapons, helmets, armour, cybernetic parts and chains.
-Bone, used for parchments, purity seals and streamers.
-Light green, used for eyes and spotlights.
-Light Grey, for the Terminator symbols on the shoulders.
-Black, for the Sergeants cape and a few other minor details.
(for the above colours, use any paint/brand you find appropriate)

-Yellow, for the ropes. (used Games Workshop FOUNDATION paint, Yanden darksun.)
-Skin, for the exposed flesh on the Sergeants. (used GW FOUNDATION paint, Tallarn flesh.)
-Beige, for the loincloths/tabbards. (used GWFOUNDATION paint, Dheneb stone.)
The Games Workshop FOUNDATION paints have a high concentration of colour pigments, and so are great for getting instantcoverage, when painting on light colours, like the last 3 above, and the drybrushing.

Paint the details with a small brush, be as neat as you can, but don´t worry too much, as small mistakes are covered by the last process.

This Terminator has been painted with gold and silver so far:



Stage three:
When you´ve painted all the details in flat colours, it´s time to ad definition/shading to your figure.
Here´s where dipping comes in. It´s called dipping because you (yes, you guessed it) dip the miniature, although I prefer painting it on with a large brush.
There´s many products that can be used for this, and local/national availability may vary.
Personally, I use a dark brown woodstain, with a dash of black woodstain added to the mix. The whole idea lies in the way the dipping liquid flows, adding shade to the recessed areas of your miniature, and definition to the details.

In this classical "BEFORE and AFTER" image, you see how dramatic the effect of dipping is.


(try clicking on the image above, and then view it in "large" or "original" format, and you´ll see how sloppy I´ve been... blush )

That´s it!
I would recommend painting your figures in batches of 4-5, preferably starting with the 5 you need to play mission one. If you paint one colour at a time, once you´ve finished painting eg gold on the fifth figure, the first is dry and ready for a new colour. That way you get an easy start, and get to play with painted miniatures really soon...




Genestealers, of course, can be painted using the same method, more on that later...

I hope some of you have been inspired to give it a go! If so, share your results with the rest of us.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask!

Follow THIS LINK to a more thorough GEEKLIST, dedicated to the dipping method.
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Søren Staugaard
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This actually looks incredibly awesome considering how little work it entails.
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Jorge Arroyo
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Wow! The result is very good. As you're not using a base undercoat, how durable is the paint? Does the wood stain help fix the paint to the plastic?
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THE JTSPECIAL-OID
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Thanks guys!

You can give the figures a coat of varnish to finish them. I´d use a matte one for the best looking result.
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Väinö Hirvelä
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Wow even I am attempted to try! (even though I sweared never to paint them since I suck at art)

But what dip color did you use?! It looks AMAZING ....I mean...it cant be normal paint since all the colors stay intact?!


I am quite sure you mention it..but I cant find that dip paints name...


Also ....if I am to dip them!? How should I proceed?! I mean how do I dip them so that will not be left any "blind" spots...

Also how to not waste the dip since you can't pour it back on the small can?! (or can you?)
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THE JTSPECIAL-OID
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Do you have the Bauhaus DIY chain in Finland?

The product I use is from Bauhaus, and intended for staining wood, it´s completely non-toxic.
It´s called Teknos lakbejdse (in danish), but a lot of other products, like army painter, are also available, many of them VERY toxic!!! gulp

Don´t use black, but go for dark,very dark, browns...

You could paint over the can, that way spills would drip back!?
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Erik Mejer Hansen
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Or you could go with Army Painter (http://www.thearmypainter.com/).

Its abit expensive, but yields good results.
It you get the dipping effect and varnish in one go.

A few examples:

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Neil Christiansen
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How different is the wood stain from just using a brown-wash?
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Paul
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I was hoping that someone would try this. I have been toying with the idea myself but I didnt have the nuts to try it.

Big kudos to you jtspecial!


Cant wait to see your Genestealers!


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Eric Boivin
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Thanks a lot for introducing me to this technique. I'll definitely have to try it. I can't wait for the Genestealers article, I think I'll start with that first!
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Paul
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Out of curiosity, at what point did you cut the figures from the sprue? Was it after the drybrush and before the detail? Or did you paint the detail on to the figures before you cut them off the frame?

I presume that you did it after the drybrush and before the detail. That is where I plan to do it but seeing as you have more insight into the process can you let me know?


Thanks!
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Michael Jordal
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I am also curious about how well the paint adheres without a primer?
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Bryce K. Nielsen
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The Winwax varnish works really well. Get a black and a brown, for the different termies/genestealers and experiment a bit. I'm thinking brown for Blood Angels, black for Genestealers, black for Ultra Marines.

Here's what I've used:



It worked like a charm.

-shnar
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Sam Flintham
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I was eargerly awaiting this tutorial

To clarify: did you use a simple indoor wood dye? or a dye/varnish combo?

If it is just a simple dye, then I suspect varnishing would be essential to prevent the dye rubbing away?

Great minis! Thank you!
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I legally own hundreds of polyhedral assault dice!
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Quote:
Stage three:
When you´ve painted all the details in flat colours, it´s time to ad definition/shading to your figure.
Here´s where dipping comes in. It´s called dipping because you (yes, you guessed it) dip the miniature, although I prefer painting it on with a large brush.
There´s many products that can be used for this, and local/national availability may vary.
Personally, I use a dark brown woodstain, with a dash of black woodstain added to the mix. The whole idea lies in the way the dipping liquid flows, adding shade to the recessed areas of your miniature, and definition to the details.

In this classical "BEFORE and AFTER" image, you see how dramatic the effect of dipping is.


Fantastic tutorial! You said a lot in just a few easy steps and the photos prove it! Can you tell us if you used the stain straight from the can or did you dilute it at all? If you diluted it, with what? Also, did you brush the stain on and then let dry? Or did you "flick" the figure as I've hear that some folks do to get any excess off?
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Bryce K. Nielsen
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MikeDowd wrote:
Holy crap, you even got a highlighting effect as the dip settled towards the bottom of the mini.

I had resigned myself to not having time to paint my dudes but I think you saved christmas.


Exactly, and that's why the dipping technique works so fantastically! You paint with relatively bright colors, the stain receeds into the cracks, doing your shading and highlighting in one dip. And it even seals the mini too, depending on if you like the glossy look or not (I personally prefer it).

I think it'd work even with non-based minis, since the varnish seals it so well. I always base my mini's though, probably more out of habit than anything.

-shnar
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christian arkins
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Ive been using Minwax Polyshades Antique Walnut Satin, and have been pleased with the results. You can see the result here... http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/545204?size=large

All in that photo, besides the Magnus, is using this stuff after a white prime and bascoats.
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Jon Grey
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Great results with minimal effort. Also skeptical about durability, however. Did you wash the plastic with warm water and soap? And didn't use a primer?

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Bryce K. Nielsen
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I'm not sure how much it's needed, since the Wood Stain *seals* like crazy, and will stick to the unprimed parts with out any problems IMHO. However, if that's a concern, just prime the model first. Still a lot faster than traditional painting

-shnar
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Joel Benham
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shnar wrote:
However, if that's a concern, just prime the model first. Still a lot faster than traditional painting

-shnar


If you're going to prime use white primer instead of black. The dip darkens it so much that the black primed figures don't come out as nice. Also when in doubt use a brighter/lighter color paint when using a dip method.
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Stephen Crouch
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Nice photos of before and after OP! thumbsup

NinjaPirateAssassin wrote:
shnar wrote:
However, if that's a concern, just prime the model first. Still a lot faster than traditional painting

-shnar


If you're going to prime use white primer instead of black. The dip darkens it so much that the black primed figures don't come out as nice. Also when in doubt use a brighter/lighter color paint when using a dip method.


2nd


If you want more control over the shading, you can do the same thing with watered down black paint, or a proper wash. Experiment

As well as it works on termies, the 'dip' is the most efficient way to get table-quality genestealers in no time flat. Spray them white, spray some wonderful color over that (purple, blue, whatever), other colors where you want, and dip as above. The flow of the finish gives them a very natural and organic look. They'll all turn out just a bit different.
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THE JTSPECIAL-OID
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Thank you everybody for the thumbs, gold and positive comments!!!

Due to the baby mentioned in the opening statement above, I´m a bit pressed for time right now, but promise to answer all questions ASAP, some time tomorrow...
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Bryce K. Nielsen
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theTak wrote:
If you want more control over the shading, you can do the same thing with watered down black paint, or a proper wash. Experiment


Though that defeats the whole purpose of the dip

Dipping = speed! It's literally 10 minutes to paint: put base coat on and Dip! Literally. You take the model, open a can of Winmax stain, dip it completely inside, take it out, a small shake for excess, then let it stand and dry. Viola! Fast painted models. (note that the stain *stains* so put it on a stack of papers you wish to throw away ).

If you spend any time doing proper washing, your model will probably look better, but not enough to justify the time spend on it. Especially for the Space Hulk models. They're perfect for dipping!

-shnar
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Eric Boivin
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Sorry for the following unrelated comment in a thread I really enjoy, but I have to!

shnar wrote:
Viola!


Pet peeve of mine. In French, it's Voila, not Viola. Viola is in fact the past participle of the verb "to rape", as something that you would use in a sentence like "The man raped his ______" Always troubling when I see someone talking about rapes
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Bryce K. Nielsen
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Sorry, I speak french a lot better than I write it

And isn't "raped" violé (not viola)? Oh wait, that's that acient form of speaking, like "doeth" in English, n'est-ce pas?

-shnar
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