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Neuroshima Hex!» Forums » General

Subject: In search for Fan Army DIY Tricks rss

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Oliver Graf
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I made some experiments in the past with Shrink Plastic hexes, but they were to expensive and I also did not own the game...

Now I have the game and the two small army expansions, and naturally I want more!

But my source of shrink plastic is gone and I yet did not find a new one. So I made myself today a Mad Bomber from the images in the game entry, a spare Dancer hex using the Laser Adhesive film I build my Memoir dice with. This came out very good!

The only thing I need now are 18mm (right?) hexes made from 1-1.2mm hard cardboard. Unfortunately spielmaterial.de has only 16mm and 22mm counters.

So here is my question: from what material and with what tools do you cut your hexes to make fan armies?
 
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Andrew Tullsen
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Tigard
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I diecut all mine with a die made specifically for this size and number of hexes.

I use chipboard and full page label paper, which can be used for both hand cutting and die cutting. My sources for these are in the US, so I won't bother to link them here.
*Chipboard - you can get it off the backs of pads pretty easily, or craft stores often have packages of 10 letter size sheets.
*Avery is the standard stock people use for labels, but any brand will work fine. Full page labels allow you to dispense with the whole gluing/spraying.
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Oliver Graf
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Ok, this is the professional approach
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Brian Sturk
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I have one of these made by Andrew and his method is quite good.
 
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AnDrew Guerrilla
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What is exact size of original components (hexes and board)?
 
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J D
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Clover
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"What is exact size of original components (hexes and board)?"

If you print out most fan-made armies they are the correct size (well not the reference sheets), just follow the lines.

I printed my fan-made tiles on linen textured resume paper, which is almost a perfect match for the texture on the original tiles. DO NOT try to glue the front and back to the chipboard before cutting, you will tear the pieces while cutting and they will not match up! I glued the front page to the chipboard, cut out the pieces, then cut the backs before gluing to ensure uniform edges. Make sure you use a low water content glue made for papercraft, Zip Dry Paper Glue is the best I've found. Yes this takes more time than label paper, but I have yet to find linen textured label paper.

I just took my time with the cutting using a very straight metal ruler and a very sharp hobby knife (the kind with the breakaway segmented blade). After gluing one side I made sure to press it firmly for an hour under some heavy books before moving to the backside. After assembly was all done I hid any imperfections on the edges with a black sharpie (I did this to the original factions as well).

If you use an inkjet printer be sure to hit the cards with a semi-gloss waterproof sealant spray to prevent the ink from running. Test this out on a spare print to make sure it does not turn cloudy (you will have plenty of spare prints as you try to scale the reference cards to match the game).

I found a 3/4 inch hole punch for the small tokens which isn't exactly the same size as the original life tokens, but close enough. Does it bother anyone else that the prize tokens in Babel 13 are different sizes? If the printers of the game can fail to produce consistently sized pieces, than so can I!
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Jack Chan
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Hi all and happy Christmas.

I have made some armies using old boardgame boards.
old copies of games i don't play anymore (old monopolies and snakes and ladders that kind of thing)

The cardboard cuts quite easily with good scissors and the backs are left with a nice linen texture.

 
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