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Subject: printer problems rss

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paul Schwartz

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Does anyone know why my printer does this on the dark colors. Have a brand new laser color printer samsung and just started PNP stuff new at it. And was wondering if i need to change any settings or why this is happening. Does not seem to be the files as some have printed ok except for the frontier file seems to always have a few white splotches where the ink does not cover.Thanks to who ever replies i know this isnt fix my printer forum but someone here i thought might give me some direction. see photos
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Andrew Tullsen
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The toner isn't fusing properly. Does the toner flake off in those areas? I would first try making sure the settings are set to the paper you are using (or play around with the settings). After that, try running a "cleaning cycle" or whatever they call it. A last measure would be to replace the drum / return the printer, this shouldn't happen with a new printer.
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paul Schwartz

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Hello yes i can scrap it off with my finger nail brand new first game i am doing figures just my luck
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Andrew Tullsen
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1. Make sure the paper is suited for a laser printer
2. Check the paper settings to make sure it suits the paper.
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paul Schwartz

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Howitzer_120mm wrote:
1. Make sure the paper is suited for a laser printer
2. Check the paper settings to make sure it suits the paper.
I am using white linen cover stock and its on the correct paper setting card stock seems to be the right onedo not see any others that match better. And the paper is for all types of printers it says so maybe it is the one colored drum but which one. Seems to be only the real dark colors
 
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Nicholas Vitek
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Paul,
I'd recommend trying different settings. It may be that the toner isn't heated enough to adhere to the paper. I have that trouble on my work printer depending on the paper I use. Eventually I found a setting that works for each paper type. Thicker paper requires more heat.


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paul Schwartz

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Nich wrote:
Paul,
I'd recommend trying different settings. It may be that the toner isn't heated enough to adhere to the paper. I have that trouble on my work printer depending on the paper I use. Eventually I found a setting that works for each paper type. Thicker paper requires more heat.


well i have just about tried them all. It worked on card stock setting printing on linen paper but cannot get it to stick to the cover stock or full sheet label very disapointing dont know what else to do. Tried photo setting that did not work, tried photo paper setting no go. bummer
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Gadi Oron
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Hi,

A few comments:

- Do you have the same behavior when using thinner paper?

- If you suspect that this is an issue with one of the colors, you should make a simple file with 100% of each color (C,M,Y,K) and print it in order to debug the issue. You can also open the file in Photoshop and remove one separation at a time and check.

- I would say that it is a substrate compatibility issue and not a consumable for the following reasons:
a) All the consumables are drums so you should have had a periodic defect in this case, which are not seen in your photos.
b) It looks like it is coverage dependent and that all colors are missing at the defect point.

- As suggested by others, my guess is that the fuser is not fusing all the toner due to the thickness of the substrate - thick substrates absorb the heat and hence the toner is left cold.

- Maybe you should try to "pre-heat" the printer before printing on the thick substrate. Make a job with 10 empty pages and the last page with your job, put 11 pages in your paper cassette, 10 standard and one thick, and print. My rational here is that when printing the empty pages all the components will get heated to the nominal working point and in this way they may be hot enough to support a single page of thick substrate.

- A more drastic workaround is to take a pack of your substrate and put in an oven at 50C for 10 minutes and then quickly put in the printer and print. In this case try to keep the pages packed together so they will not cool too fast (the top page will certainly be cold by the time you print so you will have to print more than 1 page to check it. If you use this option, I would put a small cup with water in the oven in order not to dry the paper - that might cause it to curl.

Good luck
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paul Schwartz

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regex wrote:
Hi,

A few comments:

- Do you have the same behavior when using thinner paper?

- If you suspect that this is an issue with one of the colors, you should make a simple file with 100% of each color (C,M,Y,K) and print it in order to debug the issue. You can also open the file in Photoshop and remove one separation at a time and check.

- I would say that it is a substrate compatibility issue and not a consumable for the following reasons:
a) All the consumables are drums so you should have had a periodic defect in this case, which are not seen in your photos.
b) It looks like it is coverage dependent and that all colors are missing at the defect point.

- As suggested by others, my guess is that the fuser is not fusing all the toner due to the thickness of the substrate - thick substrates absorb the heat and hence the toner is left cold.

- Maybe you should try to "pre-heat" the printer before printing on the thick substrate. Make a job with 10 empty pages and the last page with your job, put 11 pages in your paper cassette, 10 standard and one thick, and print. My rational here is that when printing the empty pages all the components will get heated to the nominal working point and in this way they may be hot enough to support a single page of thick substrate.

- A more drastic workaround is to take a pack of your substrate and put in an oven at 50C for 10 minutes and then quickly put in the printer and print. In this case try to keep the pages packed together so they will not cool too fast (the top page will certainly be cold by the time you print so you will have to print more than 1 page to check it. If you use this option, I would put a small cup with water in the oven in order not to dry the paper - that might cause it to curl.

Good luck
will try those suggestions but just does not seem like i should have to. Others do not have trouble printing on cover stock it seems
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Richard Morris
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Do they come out of the printer like that? I have noticed a similar problem with my new colour laser printer. But the printing is fine. It is when you are rough with the printed stuff doing things like slapping a metal ruler on it to trim a tile, or putting it face down on a rough (from cutting) cutting mat whilst you cut the other side that I have had problems.
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Gadi Oron
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Hi,

Sadly, laser printers are not built to handle anything but the standard laser printer paper.

If you will take a look at production presses using the toner technology you will see that these presses are struggling with paper compatibility and use various techniques to overcome it including slowing the printing down to allow the fuser to hold a high enough temperature.

Ciao

Beek Man wrote:
will try those suggestions but just does not seem like i should have to. Others do not have trouble printing on cover stock it seems
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Jake Staines
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regex wrote:

Sadly, laser printers are not built to handle anything but the standard laser printer.


That's not entirely true - my laser printer copes with anything up to (IIRC) 250-300gsm card largely without complaint. The card comes out a bit curled, and that's the only problem.

I have, however, read several opinions around that suggest that the printer sometimes doesn't pick up the driver's instructions to use particular types of paper, and it's generally more successful to set the paper type on the printer itself. I know I've had a few situations where a document printed on photo paper or card fine in one program, but using another program the toner would flake off because despite selecting a particular paper type, it wasn't sending that instruction to the printer.
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Richard Morris
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My laser failed on my first attempt with 300 gsm, and I have not tried again since. The old inkjet handles it fine, and I tend to only use that thick stuff for little boxes, for which the inkjet is adequate.

Interesting to hear about setting the paper type at the printer. I may try that. The only time I have had problems is with full sheet labels.
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Gadi Oron
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Hi again

Well, I might have exaggerated in my statement. A printer can slow down the printing to allow more time for the fusing step, and probably that is what is done when you chose a heavy stock in the driver.

If you look at professional presses you will see that they put enormous technical effort during the transfer step to the paper including:
- Soft intermediate "blanket" to overcome paper roughness
- Electrostatic charging the back of the substrate
- Ultrasonic release of the toner

Even with all these steps you will get many substrates that don't work well due to the wrong thermal, surface and dielectric properties.

So if you use a substrate which was not tested for a certain printer you will get a random print quality result and TMHO may impact the lifespan of your toner cartridge. It might work for some, and not work for others.

Happy gaming

Bichatse wrote:
regex wrote:

Sadly, laser printers are not built to handle anything but the standard laser printer paper.


That's not entirely true - my laser printer copes with anything up to (IIRC) 250-300gsm card largely without complaint.
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Chris Schumann
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This looks like the media type setting to me too. Mine (HP2605) has something like 20 media types to choose, including Card Stock, Light Glossy, Glossy, Heavy Glossy. Most of them double the usual print time to allow the fuser to work longer, and sometimes I have to use a setting that does not match the media to get it to work well.

For instance, HP presentation paper says to use the Heavy Glossy, but I have to use Glossy. For some sticker stock I have to use Heavy Card Stock instead of Labels.

Make sure your printer specifications say you can handle the media you have, then try all the settings.
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paul Schwartz

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AnnuverScotinExile wrote:
Do they come out of the printer like that? I have noticed a similar problem with my new colour laser printer. But the printing is fine. It is when you are rough with the printed stuff doing things like slapping a metal ruler on it to trim a tile, or putting it face down on a rough (from cutting) cutting mat whilst you cut the other side that I have had problems.
comes out of the printer that way then i can just scrap off ink with my finger nail. Have been using card stock setting does anyone know what setting gives the most heat. I changed the setting on the machine itself and that seem to make a big difference
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Jake Staines
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Beek Man wrote:

does anyone know what setting gives the most heat


My understanding is that you'll get the best adhesion with 'thick glossy' settings, or something similar.

Basically, the thicker the material you're printing on, the more heat is required because the material itself sinks heat away from the surface, and thicker materials sink more heat. The rougher the material (to a point!), the easier it is for toner to adhere, because there's more for it to 'cling to' - in the same way it's easier to scrape paint off of glass than wood.

A 'thick glossy' stock is the printer's worst case scenario, because glossy surfaces are much smoother than matt ones.


(EDIT: I wouldn't be surprised if there were such a thing as 'too hot', though - I don't know what happens to your printer or the stock you're printing on if you set it to heat more than it should have to!)
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Chris Hobbs
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Bichatse wrote:
I don't know what happens to your printer or the stock you're printing on if you set it to heat more than it should have to!)


http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lp0_on_fire
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LancerDeuce wrote:
Bichatse wrote:
I don't know what happens to your printer or the stock you're printing on if you set it to heat more than it should have to!)


http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lp0_on_fire
Ah, those UNIX wags! Crazeeeeee!
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Beek Man wrote:
Nich wrote:
Paul,
I'd recommend trying different settings. It may be that the toner isn't heated enough to adhere to the paper. I have that trouble on my work printer depending on the paper I use. Eventually I found a setting that works for each paper type. Thicker paper requires more heat.


well i have just about tried them all. It worked on card stock setting printing on linen paper but cannot get it to stick to the cover stock or full sheet label very disapointing dont know what else to do. Tried photo setting that did not work, tried photo paper setting no go. bummer


Linen finished papers are notoriously difficult to print on. At least with most b/w laser printers, the toner flecks right off.

Printing full color on label sheets is also difficult: any time the paper bends or flexes, toner will crack and eventually fall off. (The label paper is really suited for solving a different problem.)

It also depends on what sort of ink/toner your printer uses: inks? powdery toner? Waxy crayon?

I've had the best experience using inks on plain bond copy paper, applying spraymount to both the back of the printed sheet and the surface of whatever card-stick I'm using, let dry, then spraying on a matte acrylic sealer to the printed surface. Finally trimming the pieces out.
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paul Schwartz

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BradyLS wrote:
Beek Man wrote:
Nich wrote:
Paul,
I'd recommend trying different settings. It may be that the toner isn't heated enough to adhere to the paper. I have that trouble on my work printer depending on the paper I use. Eventually I found a setting that works for each paper type. Thicker paper requires more heat.


well i have just about tried them all. It worked on card stock setting printing on linen paper but cannot get it to stick to the cover stock or full sheet label very disapointing dont know what else to do. Tried photo setting that did not work, tried photo paper setting no go. bummer


Linen finished papers are notoriously difficult to print on. At least with most b/w laser printers, the toner flecks right off.

Printing full color on label sheets is also difficult: any time the paper bends or flexes, toner will crack and eventually fall off. (The label paper is really suited for solving a different problem.)

It also depends on what sort of ink/toner your printer uses: inks? powdery toner? Waxy crayon?

I've had the best experience using inks on plain bond copy paper, applying spraymount to both the back of the printed sheet and the surface of whatever card-stick I'm using, let dry, then spraying on a matte acrylic sealer to the printed surface. Finally trimming the pieces out.
you spray the spraymount on before you print
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Jake Staines
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Beek Man wrote:
you spray the spraymount on before you print


I wouldn't advise it - spraymount remains tacky, so you'd probably end up gumming the inside of your printer up with it or wrapping the sheet around one of the rollers or something.
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Bichatse wrote:
Beek Man wrote:
you spray the spraymount on before you print


I wouldn't advise it - spraymount remains tacky, so you'd probably end up gumming the inside of your printer up with it or wrapping the sheet around one of the rollers or something.


And that's a best-case scenario.

If I wasn't clear: do all of your printing first. (I like ink on bond paper or specially developed papers for the color printer I'm using. Or I have graphics service do the printing for me.)

After printing, you may want to coat the printed sides of the sheets with a matte, acrylic spray sealer at this point. This will protect the printed surface from small, incidental spill and handling. Krylon makes a good one. Let dry.

Then apply Spraymount (3M makes the stuff) to the back of the printed sheet and to the surface of whatever card or chip stock that you want to use to create thick counters/tiles. Mate the tacky sides and smooth out. Let dry.

Trim out your counters/tiles/pieces.
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Valerio Vitelli
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I'm updating the topic to say that I kinda have the same exact problem with a Samsung color laser printer as well.

I use heavy linen cover stock (200 g/m2) and printing card sheets with heavy colors (like the card for Battle Leader Tactics) results in an incomplete printing and toner smearing. I notice that the first third of the page is printed right, the problem appears in the other 2/3rd.

If I use normal copy paper there are not any problems.

Another strange thing i noticed (with the Serica cards) is that when i tried to resize the printing at 75% it came out perfect, but if I try to print at full size the problem appears, so maybe it's also how much toner is needed for single sheet.
 
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Gadi Oron
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What you describe is consistent with a fusing failure due to temperature drop in the fuser.

The first revolution of the fuser is at sufficient temperature but the second revolution is colder due to excessive heat transfer to the thick substrate.
 
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