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Ogre» Forums » Rules

Subject: How to handle back half of ogre? rss

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Andrew Walters
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Yes, yes, and yes.

For the purpose of all game mechanics, the Ogre is in the front hex. The model happens to spillover into the "rear" hex, but that hex is actually Ogre-less.
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TTorres
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We regularly rotate the Ogre to wherever it's most convenient for the activity during the turn.
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Silver Bowen
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Thanks for the answers. I'm pretty well sorted out now.

I do wish there were some sort of rules for using the ogre as a two-hex model.
 
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Eric Johnson
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I usually handle the back half with hit and run GEVs
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Paul Paella
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Does anyone know if all of Ogre minis (Ogres Mk1-x, armor, infantry, etc.) fit into the hexes of the new Designers Edition maps? I'd like to buy and paint lots of official minis for this game but only if they fit into the DE hexes.
 
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Jeff Johnson
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silverbowen wrote:
I do wish there were some sort of rules for using the ogre as a two-hex model.


Cthulhu kills a kitten every time someone says that.
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Silver Bowen
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Jeffr0 wrote:
silverbowen wrote:
I do wish there were some sort of rules for using the ogre as a two-hex model.


Cthulhu kills a kitten every time someone says that.


You say that like it's a bad thing.
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Thomas Koziatek
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Ghorro wrote:
Does anyone know if all of Ogre minis (Ogres Mk1-x, armor, infantry, etc.) fit into the hexes of the new Designers Edition maps? I'd like to buy and paint lots of official minis for this game but only if they fit into the DE hexes.


All the basic infantry and armor units will fit. A Mk-1 will overflow a bit, a Mk2 and up will definitely need 2 hexes.

The plus side is that the Ogre minis look sooo much better than the cardboard assemblies, that minis will improve the look of the game immensely. You will, however, have a trade off is losing the printed stats. But as Ogre stats are pretty basic its not a big loss.

I am doing the same thing for my board.
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Adam Hickey
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Ogres don't have printed stats on the 3D counters, so you wouldn't lose anything by using real miniatures with the boardgame.

I assume (but don't know for a fact) that the 3D counters are the same size as the Ogre miniatures.
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Richard Smith
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I have a couple of 1 hex, square flat OGRES around, 2 black, 2 white.

For ~90% of the game there is a free hex for the OGRE to swing its tail into. However, typically for one or two turns in a game, the OGRE is getting swarmed and every hex around it is filled.

If there is a crater beside the OGRE, I just put its rear half in that - problem solved. If not, I replace the OGRE with the 1 hex counter for that turn as a 'place holder'.

If you look on the Geek, you will see that I was originally posting (before DE came out) saying I preferred 1 hex square counters. However, I am coming around to the 3D units. Yes, they are less easy to use than the flat square counters. But they look so cool, that it is easy to interest new players into trying out the game.

And you need players, first and foremost.

@Adam: Yes, the 3D counters are the same scale as the miniatures. The game is designed to allow miniatures to play on the boards.

Warm regards, Rick.
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Jeff Johnson
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Rick Smith wrote:
If you look on the Geek, you will see that I was originally posting (before DE came out) saying I preferred 1 hex square counters. However, I am coming around to the 3D units. Yes, they are less easy to use than the flat square counters. But they look so cool, that it is easy to interest new players into trying out the game.


This.

Exactly my experience.
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Rusty McFisticuffs
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andreww wrote:
For the purpose of all game mechanics, the Ogre is in the front hex. The model happens to spillover into the "rear" hex, but that hex is actually Ogre-less.

It's been long enough, I guess I can roll this out again:

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