Recommend
21 
 Thumb up
 Hide
668 Posts
[1]  Prev «  18 , 19 , 20 , 21 , 22  Next »  [27] | 

1 Player guild» Forums » General

Subject: 1pg Miniatures Games Terrain Thread. rss

Your Tags: Add tags
Popular Tags: [View All]
Kristin .
United States
Texas
flag msg tools
Avatar
mbmbmbmbmb
I almost never use any wash undiluted any more - I have found that a heavily diluted wash can be just right for showing definition without making everything look dirty. I don't dilute with water, I dilute with Lahmian medium. You can make your own out of inexpensive acrylic matte medium.

https://youtu.be/ad7bNDfS3fI

Edit - I didn't read your earlier post clearly enough, you already use matte medium and inks for washes. I'd just add that making the wash really dilute can give you the definition without the dirtiness. If it'w not enough, you can do it again (whereas you can't really go backwards easily from a heavy wash).
3 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
fortheloveofdice
Canada
Toronto
ON
flag msg tools
badge
Avatar
mbmbmbmbmb
I heard somewhere that the new Contrast medium from citadel works well mixed with ink. Haven’t tried it yet.
3 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
calvin chow
United States
seattle
Washington
flag msg tools
badge
Avatar
mbmbmbmbmb
I'll probably get to detailing, with some judicious use of washes on some of the more detailed parts--but, I'm just not motivated right now... Starting at this big pile of new 15mm minis... I think I need to play a bit first...
4 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
Kristin .
United States
Texas
flag msg tools
Avatar
mbmbmbmbmb
fortheloveofdice wrote:
I heard somewhere that the new Contrast medium from citadel works well mixed with ink. Haven’t tried it yet.

Yes, it definitely does (that might have been me). I would also say that many of the Contrast paints are also best diluted a bit with Contrast medium (esp. the darker ones).

That being said, Contrast paints and medium are probably too expensive to use for all but the smallest terrain items...
3 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
Sean Gewecke
United States
Lincoln
Nebraska
flag msg tools
Avatar
mbmbmbmbmb
calvinc71 wrote:
Nice...

Making a little progress on the other scatter and thingies... Trying to decide if I want to punch it up, or leave it a little bland so the miniatures pop...


Great stuff.
6 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
Kevin Shaud
United States
Harleysville
Pennsylvania
flag msg tools
designer
Shop at GameSurplus.com
badge
Shop at GameSurplus.com
Avatar
mbmbmbmbmb
Miniature Market is having a warehouse sale and has a Sedition Wars terrain set for $10.00. It has lots of great stuff for sci-fi minis gaming. I ordered a set. It contains 70 pieces!

https://www.miniaturemarket.com/cmnsm1002.html

3 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
Paul Aceto
United States
Fairfax
Virginia
flag msg tools
Avatar
mbmbmbmbmb
I've picked up two of these over the years. They are indeed a good deal.

The base game is pretty good too.
2 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
Chris
United States
Burnsville
Minnesota
flag msg tools
Lorenthia is gone, The Shadow Deep has swallowed it whole.
badge
Like a monkey, ready to be shot into space. Space monkey! Ready to sacrifice himself for the greater good. Without pain, without sacrifice, we would have nothing!
Avatar
mbmbmbmbmb
kevinruns262 wrote:
Miniature Market is having a warehouse sale and has a Sedition Wars terrain set for $10.00. It has lots of great stuff for sci-fi minis gaming. I ordered a set. It contains 70 pieces!

https://www.miniaturemarket.com/cmnsm1002.html


That looks like terrific value. I may have ordered a set, despite committing to spending less this month... whistle

Specifically for Savage Worlds, Seven Worlds Setting Guide.
2 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
Paul Aceto
United States
Fairfax
Virginia
flag msg tools
Avatar
mbmbmbmbmb
I highly recommend this guy’s Tabletop Minions channel for its content and dry wit. But this video is especially of interest, as he touts the use of $1 makeup brushes for drybrushing minis and terrain. I can definitely see using one for Fallout and Terminator Genisys rubble piles and walls.



Guess I’ll be dropping by my local CVS tomorrow to pick up some brushes.
4 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
Jay Jasper
United States
New Mexico
flag msg tools
Avatar
mbmbmbmbmb
Yeah, I saw that a while back and next day popped into our local WalMart and picked up a couple. And I really like them for big pieces. Don’t work so well for me on figures. But I’ve got some SoB otherworld gates I need to post that I did almost all the dry brushing with the make-up brushes.
1 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
Kristin .
United States
Texas
flag msg tools
Avatar
mbmbmbmbmb
Zouave wrote:
I highly recommend this guy’s Tabletop Minions channel for its content and dry wit. But this video is especially of interest, as he touts the use of $1 makeup brushes for drybrushing minis and terrain. I can definitely see using one for Fallout and Terminator Genisys rubble piles and walls.



Guess I’ll be dropping by my local CVS tomorrow to pick up some brushes.

Absolutely - I'm a big fan, and support him on Patreon (at the Uncle Atom's Irregulars level). I have had a lot of success with the makeup brushes for dry brushing - I was at the drugstore today, and actually picked up another one or two... There are angled shading brushes that work well for minis (smaller...)
2 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
Kristin .
United States
Texas
flag msg tools
Avatar
mbmbmbmbmb
I recently pulled out my Battle Systems stuff from their Fantasy Dungeon KS about 5 years ago, and have been having fun building some of the more elaborate pieces, PVA gluing the edges, then using markers to color the edges. It has taken a bunch of time, but is totally fun, getting that sort of dollhouse furniture building vibe with this.

Here is the Dimension gate:



The Furnace:




Some of the furniture (I love these chairs in particular - this is a close up, they are pretty tiny):



And the well:



I love this stuff. It's taking a lot of time, but bit by bit I'm going to seal the edges of ALL of it (all sets including Core Space) with PVA using an old fine paint brush (for more longevity/less fraying) and color the edges. BTW, in their tutorials they recommend sealing the edges with super glue. I wouldn't do that - I tried it, and not only is it more messy/error prone compared to PVA, but it also darkens the card a lot. Here are photos of the ends of two barrels - the lighter/brown one is sealed with PVA, the darker one with super glue.




I'd also recommend sealing the edges before marking - I discovered that some markers soak ink into the unsealed cardboard edges and can stain the pieces along the edges. The markers work fine over dried PVA.
8 
 Thumb up
0.75
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
Chris
United States
Burnsville
Minnesota
flag msg tools
Lorenthia is gone, The Shadow Deep has swallowed it whole.
badge
Like a monkey, ready to be shot into space. Space monkey! Ready to sacrifice himself for the greater good. Without pain, without sacrifice, we would have nothing!
Avatar
mbmbmbmbmb
That's wicked Kristin!
3 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
calvin chow
United States
seattle
Washington
flag msg tools
badge
Avatar
mbmbmbmbmb
It looks almost cel shaded... Pretty cool...
4 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
Kristin .
United States
Texas
flag msg tools
Avatar
mbmbmbmbmb
Yeah, it's really amazing what these folks can do with cardboard...
4 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
Dave B
United States
Tigard
Oregon
flag msg tools
designer
Avatar
mbmbmbmbmb
I just bought some markers to color the edges of my Battle Systems terrain. I have been working on some of the sci-fi stuff that I got in addition to the pieces that come with Core Space. It doesn't seem to come together as well for me as it does for Colin in the tutorial videos. I guess he has a lot more practice. I am finding a lot of pieces need a bit of snipping (the side nipper I bought recently helps with that), but I find it too easy to snip a bit too much and make the slots too wide. I have also had trouble not bending pieces, getting them to line up nicely, fraying and the cardboard separating a bit here and there, and just general assembly. So far I haven't totally ruined any pieces (although I did glue the mattress part of one bed upside down). I used super glue as they suggest. Maybe I should switch to white glue or tacky glue.

I didn't know about sealing the edges, so I have colored several pieces without doing that.

Yeah, some of the pieces in the sci-fi set are tiny, too. It is all a bit fiddly, but hopefully I will get better at assembling with more practice. And it does look good.

Although, yours looks better than mine, Kristin! laugh
2 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
Kristin .
United States
Texas
flag msg tools
Avatar
mbmbmbmbmb
agramore wrote:
I just bought some markers to color the edges of my Battle Systems terrain. I have been working on some of the sci-fi stuff that I got in addition to the pieces that come with Core Space. It doesn't seem to come together as well for me as it does for Colin in the tutorial videos. I guess he has a lot more practice. I am finding a lot of pieces need a bit of snipping (the side nipper I bought recently helps with that), but I find it too easy to snip a bit too much and make the slots too wide. I have also had trouble not bending pieces, getting them to line up nicely, fraying and the cardboard separating a bit here and there, and just general assembly. So far I haven't totally ruined any pieces (although I did glue the mattress part of one bed upside down). I used super glue as they suggest. Maybe I should switch to white glue or tacky glue.

I didn't know about sealing the edges, so I have colored several pieces without doing that.

Yeah, some of the pieces in the sci-fi set are tiny, too. It is all a bit fiddly, but hopefully I will get better at assembling with more practice. And it does look good.

Although, yours looks better than mine, Kristin! laugh

Yeah, I had to practice, there are some ugly pieces that I have NOT photographed. laugh I was fortunate to have done a decent bit of my learning on Shanty pieces, which are supposed to be dirty/messed up/corroded anyway. Those pieces of furniture that I posted weren't sealed before marking (they are currently in the to-be-sealed pile). I got lucky an they were supposed to be dirty...

I came up with the PVA glue thing on my own before watching any tutorials, because I was frustrated at tearing at tight joins for pieces meant to be assembled repeatedly. You will find that they slide together with the clips MUCH better after PVA sealing and make the pieces act like plastic pieces going together (you may even need less trimming) - of note, I do take a small brush (a cheap 00 size) and glue seal into all the notches as well. It's not as messy as it sounds, and since the printed surfaces are glossy, you can easily wipe off any excess glue not on the edge with your finger. (Practice on the punch boards!) I lay the pieces on parchment paper on my work table to dry, just in case some glue is on the under-surface

When I watched the tutorials, I decided to try super glue on a few pieces like they recommended, and glued them to my fingers, etc., total fail (and even when it worked, PVA looked better in the end and was just as sturdy. And cheaper!). Likewise, they say to mark before gluing, but I nearly ruined some little book scatter because some dark marker (spine of book) bled heavily into and under some light parts (had to go back with white acrylic to touch up). I tried marking over the PVA, and it's much neater looking and the color stays put. I also bought some white acrylic paint pens (the kind you get to write on rocks or glass or other crafty stuff) - I used that on the sides that needed to be a lighter color since the inherent grey can be a bit dark.

One good thing they suggest that I did/do is to save the punch boards and practice on them. I actually created a key for my most common brown/yellow/grey marker colors by sealing one long edge with PVA, then dividing it into little sections with a black pen, and then coloring and labeling sections. Then I just hold the key up to the side of the piece to get a feel for what's the best match.

This has been my big focus for the past week or two - punching, assembling, and sealing this terrain. It's actually fun, but it's a lot of work if you want to tweak it like this. However, it is totally usable as is (my Core Space set up is just straight from the box, haven't done anything to it... yet.)

Gosh, it's late! I need to go to bed! surprise
6 
 Thumb up
2.00
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
Jay Jasper
United States
New Mexico
flag msg tools
Avatar
mbmbmbmbmb
Are you thinning the glue at all?

That’s some very nice work.
1 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
Dave B
United States
Tigard
Oregon
flag msg tools
designer
Avatar
mbmbmbmbmb
Kush7 wrote:
However, it is totally usable as is (my Core Space set up is just straight from the box, haven't done anything to it... yet.)

Yeah, same for my Core Space setup.

Thanks for all of the info and tips!

I have plenty of punch boards to practice on! laugh
1 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
Jay Jasper
United States
New Mexico
flag msg tools
Avatar
mbmbmbmbmb
Got a couple of Otherworld gates finished from SoB. I used a make-up brush for the dry brushing.



I’m working on the last two minis from the base game now, the male Marshall, and the male Gunfighter. Hope to finish them this weekend!
6 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
Dave J
United States
Washington
flag msg tools
badge
Avatar
mbmbmbmbmb
So question for the terrain experts!! With a standard 28mm game. Like Rosd. What would the footprint be of a typical house?

I’m not ever going to buy real terrain. At least anytime soon. Maybe if I find good looking collapsible stuff that I can store easily. But I do see myself using those grid maps and just drawing what I need with a dry erase marker.

You da best
1 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
Dave B
United States
Tigard
Oregon
flag msg tools
designer
Avatar
mbmbmbmbmb
typo360 wrote:
So question for the terrain experts!! With a standard 28mm game. Like Rosd. What would the footprint be of a typical house?

I’m not ever going to buy real terrain. At least anytime soon. Maybe if I find good looking collapsible stuff that I can store easily. But I do see myself using those grid maps and just drawing what I need with a dry erase marker.

You da best

I haven't played RoSD, but generally for skirmish games where most of the action is outdoors I keep the buildings on the small side, like 3 or 4 inches to a side for a regular house or cottage. Maybe double that for a large building. If the action is more indoors the footprint can be expanded to be more in scale with the miniature figures. I kind of think of it like movies, especially older ones where they used flats for exterior shots and sound stages for interior ones.

I guess it depends on how much you want the houses/buildings to be the focus on a small table.

Currently I am looking at games like Core Space, which with the base set is set mostly indoors. In that, individual rooms are in the range of 3 or 4 inches on a side, up to 8 or more on a side. That game is played on 2 foot by 2 foot mats.
2 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
Dave J
United States
Washington
flag msg tools
badge
Avatar
mbmbmbmbmb
That’s that helps a lot.
2 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
Kristin .
United States
Texas
flag msg tools
Avatar
mbmbmbmbmb
DonkeyJay wrote:
Are you thinning the glue at all?

That’s some very nice work.

Thanks! No, no dilution - I put the glue in a little resealable paint pot so I can use the paint brush. As I said, it's time consuming - over a lot of time as you work your way through the glue in the pot evaporates/gets thicker, so I have added drops of water then, but that's just to bring it back to the consistency of the stuff that comes out of the bottle. You could dilute a little though - I should try that. Definitely don't go thicker - I tried tacky glue, and while it works, it's hard to mess with and very slow.

PVA out of the standard school bottle seems to have the right balance of enough of water content and thickness that surface tension holds it along the unsealed edge without spreading - it's not that hard to put it on the edge and avoid the sides (even in the grooves) because of this - you just run your finger along the flat side of the groove when done for any that got past the edge. So it takes time, but it's easier than it probably looks. DEFINITELY dry either upright (doing one side at a time, leaning against something) or flat on parchment paper - easy to get it up if a little glue made the bottom sticky.

I have been so impressed with this terrain, and it's been a great deal for what you get, but also a significant investment, so I am motivated to have it really last and not start looking beat up as I use and reuse pieces with the clips. This IS also the best thing to do if something gets bent/torn when punching it out - works well for that, and works well on those tiny pointy edges. I'll probably just chug away at getting these sealed and colored over time - doing this sort of ate up all the potential painting/gaming time recently, so I'm putting away the dungeon stuff now and work on finishing Fallout core elements now. I can always go back to this when I'm not in the mood to do anything else...
2 
 Thumb up
0.25
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
fortheloveofdice
Canada
Toronto
ON
flag msg tools
badge
Avatar
mbmbmbmbmb
For markers over the PVA glue, any advice as to what kinds might or might not work? Just sharpies are the default I’m guessing?
2 
 Thumb up
 tip
 Hide
  • [+] Dice rolls
[1]  Prev «  18 , 19 , 20 , 21 , 22  Next »  [27] |