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Subject: 1pg Miniatures Games Terrain Thread. rss

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Jay Jasper
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I got some Endertoys boulders just to check the quality of their printing, and there's a lot of striations, which are ok in a boulder, but would be a PIA in a building. Is that the case with the mausoleum?
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Dave B
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DonkeyJay wrote:
I got some Endertoys boulders just to check the quality of their printing, and there's a lot of striations, which are ok in a boulder, but would be a PIA in a building. Is that the case with the mausoleum?

I tried some of their sci-fi pieces and ditched them because of the striations. Not sure if there is anything you can do to mitigate it after printing. I'm not blaming Endertoys only. For all I know it is endemic to 3D printing at this time. Maybe they could improve it by changing printer settings, but probably at the cost of printing speed or something. It may be a case of "you get what you pay for" and if you're okay with it then it's fine. Caveat emptor.
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fortheloveofdice
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DonkeyJay wrote:
I got some Endertoys boulders just to check the quality of their printing, and there's a lot of striations, which are ok in a boulder, but would be a PIA in a building. Is that the case with the mausoleum?
FWIG 3D printing usually means “don’t drybrush” so I expect they’ll still be noticeable.
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Paul Aceto
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What do you mean by striations? I assume it is something different than mold lines.

FYI - I've ordered several items from Panhandle3DPrinting's Etsy store, and been pleased with them.

https://www.etsy.com/shop/Panhandle3dPrinting?ref=simple-sho...

Here's one set I bought for Fallout Wasteland Warfare; the image is from their site but mine look the same.

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Bryan
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Zouave wrote:
What do you mean by striations? I assume it is something different than mold lines.


3D printer print in layers which causes layer lines. Some printers and setups are more noticeable than others.

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Paul Aceto
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Wow, that is noticeable. I was thinking you could pass them off as wear and tear, but I guess not.
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Bryan
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Zouave wrote:
Wow, that is noticeable. I was thinking you could pass them off as wear and tear, but I guess not.

The example I've shown is extreme but shows you clearly each layer. Generally the smaller the figure, the more noticeable it is. You can sometimes sand out the lines or use different settings/nozzles to reduce them.
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Jay Jasper
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usfbrown wrote:
Zouave wrote:
Wow, that is noticeable. I was thinking you could pass them off as wear and tear, but I guess not.

The example I've shown is extreme but shows you clearly each layer. Generally the smaller the figure, the more noticeable it is. You can sometimes sand out the lines or use different settings/nozzles to reduce them.

That’s about what the Endertoys stuff looks like. Drybrushing is definitely out. So are washes.
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Bryan
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DonkeyJay wrote:
usfbrown wrote:
Zouave wrote:
Wow, that is noticeable. I was thinking you could pass them off as wear and tear, but I guess not.

The example I've shown is extreme but shows you clearly each layer. Generally the smaller the figure, the more noticeable it is. You can sometimes sand out the lines or use different settings/nozzles to reduce them.

That’s about what the Endertoys stuff looks like. Drybrushing is definitely out. So are washes.

Think you can sand the lines down? Please do research first whether you need some kind of personal protective gear for the material thought. I know sanding resins is hazardous.
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Jay Jasper
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usfbrown wrote:
DonkeyJay wrote:
usfbrown wrote:
Zouave wrote:
Wow, that is noticeable. I was thinking you could pass them off as wear and tear, but I guess not.

The example I've shown is extreme but shows you clearly each layer. Generally the smaller the figure, the more noticeable it is. You can sometimes sand out the lines or use different settings/nozzles to reduce them.

That’s about what the Endertoys stuff looks like. Drybrushing is definitely out. So are washes.

Think you can sand the lines down? Please do research first whether you need some kind of personal protective gear for the material thought. I know sanding resins is hazardous.

It’s not worth my time.
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Kevin Riddle

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usfbrown wrote:
Zouave wrote:
What do you mean by striations? I assume it is something different than mold lines.


3D printer print in layers which causes layer lines. Some printers and setups are more noticeable than others.


can't you brush on acetone (fingernail polish remover) and it takes it out?
melts it smooth?
 
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Chris
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Deleted previous, I don't think I was quite right about what I was saying.

Examined some of my EnderToys stuff, and it wasn't that discernible to me previously but they do have a bit of striation, in the walls of the ruins, buildings and scatter. It doesn't seem as visible to my eyes as what ya'll are mentioning. I don't think I would have noticed much without this discussion.

The stone for the ruins look pretty natural with it, and I did wash and drybrush. I imagine the stone Mausoleum will as well. The sci-fi modern Ammo crates and barrels are more noticeable, the former being the worst. Those 2 sets only got a basecoat and wash.
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Chris
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scout13 wrote:
can't you brush on acetone (fingernail polish remover) and it takes it out?
melts it smooth?

Like this?

https://www.filabot.com/blogs/news/85362052-smoothing-3d-abs...
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Kristin .
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I spent some time looking into this a few months ago. It’s work, but one good option is to use a spray filler primer, then sand (removing primer over ridges and leaving the primer in the grooves). Just a thought, if important.

The process lays down the filament in layers, and it’s faster to print at s lower resolution (layers bigger). You can get/print at higher resolution, but I suspect it might cost more. (That’s one of the benefits of a resin 3D printer, you can get better resolution as I understand).
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Bryan
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scout13 wrote:
usfbrown wrote:
Zouave wrote:
What do you mean by striations? I assume it is something different than mold lines.


3D printer print in layers which causes layer lines. Some printers and setups are more noticeable than others.


can't you brush on acetone (fingernail polish remover) and it takes it out?
melts it smooth?

Honestly I am not sure.
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Dave B
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I think the trick with any post-printing smoothing techniques would be smoothing the ridges/striations without obscuring detail you want to keep.

As far as terrain that I am working on - it's been Battle Systems sci-fi terrain for several days now. Punching pieces out, doing a little trimming as needed, painting white glue on the edges, coloring the edges, assembling various pieces, etc. I find it very relaxing and something I can do while listening to podcasts (so I've been getting caught up on a few podcasts that I had neglected). I know all of that work isn't necessary, but I enjoy it and think it improves the look and durability of the pieces.

Looking forward to eventually getting the stuff from the fantasy kickstarter, too.
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Bryan
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agramore wrote:
I think the trick with any post-printing smoothing techniques would be smoothing the ridges/striations without obscuring detail you want to keep.

As far as terrain that I am working on - it's been Battle Systems sci-fi terrain for several days now. Punching pieces out, doing a little trimming as needed, painting white glue on the edges, coloring the edges, assembling various pieces, etc. I find it very relaxing and something I can do while listening to podcasts (so I've been getting caught up on a few podcasts that I had neglected). I know all of that work isn't necessary, but I enjoy it and think it improves the look and durability of the pieces.

Looking forward to eventually getting the stuff from the fantasy kickstarter, too.

I love their stuff, at least what they supplied with Core Space. I would have loved to back the Kickstarter. Keep us posted on when you get it!
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Paul Aceto
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Well I'll be. The stuff I bought from Panhandle3D Printing has something similar. Guess i'll see how much it stands out once I paint these pieces.





A nice thing abut the current Battlesystems KS is that you'll get two full sets of stretch goals if you pledge for two of the base sets (I did village and battlefield).
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Chris
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If you didn't notice it prior I wouldn't worry about it Paul. I have stuff from them too and it's less pronounced than ender toys. even with ET i really had to look hard to see it on my painted stuff.
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Paul Aceto
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Bryan
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Zouave wrote:

laughlaughlaugh

You may be able to wet sand it with high grit sand paper (1000+).

I hate sanding but if it bothers your that much, you should be able to sand the majority of the larger pieces. I wouldn't sand any of the fine detailed parts.
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Paul Aceto
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I was joking. What I can't see from 24 inches away doesn't bother me a bit.
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You may call me
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usfbrown wrote:
I would have loved to back the Kickstarter. Keep us posted on when you get it!

Late pledges went live a few days ago. You still have a chance!
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Kristin .
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I finished putting together my Warcry terrain last night (mold lines, gluing and assembly, etc.), and after work today, I gave everything a thorough scrubbing with dish soap and a toothbrush. Tomorrow, once dry, I'll prime, painting will likely start Sunday. This is some really cool terrain! thumbsup

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Jeff Coon
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Inspired by calvinc71's electrical box sci-fi buildings, I set about creating my own. I bought a handful of bits and bobs from Home Depot, but was unsatisfied by the variety and realism. I decided to buy some sprues of the Pegasus Hobbies Chemical Plant off eBay. I'm glad I did, the pieces are fantastic for sci-fi terrain.






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calvin chow
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for the idea (see page 18)

I'm going to try to finish these up while I wait for my Khurasan miniatures to arrive. I'm going to start a solo campaign of Five Parsecs From Home (Second Edition).
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