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Subject: Project Wormhole rss

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As you may know I recently got Wormhole. It's more of a hobby than just a game. It's a set of wargame rules for playing with the supplied models. The models themselves have to be printed out and made up, and thats where the hobby part comes in.

Any way I thought I'd start a thread to track what I'm doing with the game.

I first heard about Wormhole here in the Print and Play guild. I think it was mentioned by Subhuman, but I'm not sure. I followed the link and was blown away by the web site. The site is media rich and your ears and eyes will be astounded. Considering that it's a Print and Play game being put out by a small company they have a hugely impressive web site.

There was a free PDF there for one of the small ships. I downloaded the "Particle Bow" and set to making it.

This is just about the easiest ship to make in the game.

The ship itself is one piece and is easily cut out with a knife. All you have to do is score it down the centre line and put a slight bend in the card. This leaves you with a rather shark-like ship.

Next you have the support that holds this ship in the air, it needs to be folded and glued. Two folds close together in the middle of this cardboard strip form a small base. The ends of the strip has tabs that you glue to the underside of the ship in the marked location.

The base is roughly octagonal and the stand mentioned above gets glued into the centre of the base. The game files reccommend that you glue this printed base to black FoamCor cut to shape. I dont have any black FoamCor and after thinking about it, I decided against it. I wanted a heavier base than that. I opted for a thick card base instead.

One tip that the designers suggest is that you "edge" all of the pieces before assembling. This means running around all of the pieces with a black marker pen turning the cut white edges black. I didnt do this.

Once the model was complete...I wished that I'd edged it. They say that the model looks much better when edged, and they ARE RIGHT!

So I'll leave it there for now, I have made more models but details of my exploits there will have to wait as I have dinner to eat.

 
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Orlando Ramirez
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Always Edge!!, and take your time with it as I've marked over some of the artwork here and there at times.

can't wait for a review!
 
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I'm making it in 1/2 scale as the footprint is just too big for my little cabin. Yes edge before.I've made the particlebow frigates, the skirmishers & starting now the control corvettes. Because of the smaller size I'm basing them with 1/4 black craft foam for weight instead of foamcore. The craft foam has the advantage of providing a non-slip surface. One thing I've found with the 1/2 scale skirmishers is the triangle insert is too light & makes it a tad wiggly. I'm trying to decide on something to add weight without wrecking the look. According to the wormhole board the guy who 1st tried the 1/2 scale wasn't totally pleased with the command trays & is thinking about redoing them in regular scale. I'll decide which way I'll go when I've finished the fleets.
 
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Andrew Tullsen
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So, you pay $25 and you get the download - Does it include the whole game? All the ships, everything? Or do you have to buy stuff individually?
 
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Melody
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You get everything, ships, game rules, scenarios, tokens, cards the works. They are planning to make additional kits to buy but the base game is a complete game on it's own.
 
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Andrew Tullsen
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What kind of supplies do you need?
 
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Howitzer_120mm wrote:
What kind of supplies do you need?


Card to print on. Plenty of printer ink! Basing material for the ship bases, thick card in my case. Glue, I'm using a mix of glue stick and a little white glue. Scissors and a sharp knife. Optionally a little clear sticky tape.
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Not too much.

Xacto knife
metal ruler
cutting mat
glue - the designers suggest UHU office glue pen, I use that for foldovers,
but use weldbond glue for hi stress areas
permanent felt pen for edging, black will do for most of this design but grey or the 2 faction colors of blue & orange could also be used.
110 cardstock or 80 lb coverstock
foamcore for basing
TIME! Lots & lots of time

The site has lots of build tutorials. Also check out the forums, that's where I got the idea to make this in 1/2 scale.
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Thanks a lot guys!
 
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Today the control panel for the Particle Bow ship.

This is a two part build and looks harder than it is. Basicly we have a large tri fold but with a bunch of gee-whizz add ons. It prints out on a single sheet and step one is to cut the small part away, and step 2 to cut round the large piece.

One end of the big bit forms the switches. The switches are double sided so you score and bend over the end that contains the back side of the switches and glue into place.

One of the suggestions from the producers is that you run a strip of clear sticky tape along the "hinge" of the switches. This will give the switches a longer life, if you decide to "tape" it, now is the time. I choose to tape it.

Next you have to cut out the swtches, this means cutting the white space between and along the outside edges of the switches. When you do this, your also cutting out the tape that croses the gaps between switches.

You will also want to score across the back of the hinges so that they are going to bend easy.

the next step is important. On the front piece of the contro panel are two slits that need to be cut. You must do this now. If you forget it, you have basicly wasted your time on this part of the build. You will not be able to cut this these slits later. Also make sure you do this in single cuts. These are going to be holding a slider, if the cut isn't smooth and straight then you will have a nightmare sing the damage tracking feature of the control.

Next step is to score the three folds and fold them. A large wide tab runs the width of the build and closes the triange with a good strong bond.

The next step is all my own. Go mad with the switches. Bend them back, stick a really good crease along that hinge you scored earlier. You'll also want to work the switches a number of times. These switches tend to slowly bend back into the upright if you havn't broken their will(Mwahhahahahah!)

Now you build part two. This is a slider that runs along those two cuts I went on about earlier.

This slider can be a bit fiddely to cut, and you must make sure that you cut the short almost hidden slit. Fold and glue the "handle" part making sure you dont put glue on the two tabs that are "metal" coloured. when the glue sets fold out these metal tabs in opposite directions to 90 degress and push into those two slits on the front of the panel.

This slider has been really stiff and hard to move on both of my builds. The producers suggest that this gets easier with use. Once again they are right. I now also give these sliders a good working over, like I did with the switches. After about twenty slides it works very nicely.

Now that sounds rather long and drawn out, it's not. At least the second one is a lot quicker because doing the first one shows the way. I've built two of these now, and the second one was no more than 10 minutes.

I used my black pen to edge the switches, and because I am now a Serious Edger I edged the trifold as well.

Next the "Control Corvette".


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The "Control Corvette" would aptly be described by Gollum as "a tricksey devil my precious". I'm with Gollum on this.

It's stand and base are the same as with the "Particle Bow" so there was no problem there. The main body of the ship itself is a flat tuning fork affair and is easily cut and glued into a double sided slab.

The troubles comes with the "wings" of the ship which are vertical on each side in a tie-fighter type way.

Both wings and the bridge between them come as a single piece that requires a number of folds, which roll towards the center. Now following the instructions you dont cut away the white areas until you've folded and glued this part together which means you end up with a piece that in profile forms a letter H shape. This then makes it a right pain to cut out becuase your cutting a half made ship and the other wing gets in the way of what your cutting. Certainly not an insurmountable problem but none the less a pain in the post'.

Finally you mount the tuning fork with its wings and the "Control corvette" is done.

Next I followed the same process as used before to construct the control panel for the new ship. The new panel went to gether really quickly on I did something differnt this time. I noticed a suggestion in the materials that when printing from the PDFs you should turn off "page scaling". So I did this. The result is that now my new control panel is a 1/2 centimetre smaller than the other two panels I've made up.

DOH!!!!!!!!!

So at some point, I'm going to have go back and remake the panels already done or they wont fit into the control panel holder. There is also a chance that the two "Particle Bows" already made are a little too big.

On a happier note, over at the Wormhole forum in the kit-bashing section I noticed that a damaged "Particle Bow" ship has been posted, so I'm going to download that to add some flavour to the ships. As stated there, a floating damaged ship would make an excellent piece for a scenario.
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Building the Hammerhead Battle Cruiser!

Well, I thought the Control Corvette was a bit tricky, well this monster proved to be tricky x 2.

The first part is tail fins, these were nice and easy, cut out and fold over with a score down the middle. Nice and easy.

The next bit is where it starts to get trickey. The next shape you cut out forms a triangular tube ( surely there's a name for that solid? ) thats the easy bit. The problem is that you have a flap on one end with tabs that you have to fold in to cap the end of the tube. I found it very dificult to get this end bit to sit in the right place. One second it bent all of the way in, the next it popped out again. So my advice on this model, is that if your closing a tube, use a glue that lets you reposition. I ended up taking three attaempts to get this in position. Once you get it sealed you glue the tail fins onto this tube.

Next you have to make up a couple of little open ended boxes, these will be spacers for the outer hull later. No problems simple glue-the-tab job.

Now we come to the mother of all fiddely jobs. The main hull is a hexangonal tube for half its length and the remainder is only pentagonal!

A straight forward enough cut and score. Make you you bend the card along the scores and dry fold all of the bits into position to make sure you have a good understanding of how its going to fit. I was scratching my head for a good while trying to work out the five sided bit.

Once again use a repositionable glue here. If that means having to hold the bits in place for longer, it's still alot cheaper than having to print out this sheet again! The hexangonal end cap/flap nearly forced me into swearing, just as soon as I got one tricky tab in place I'd realise another had popped out. Grrr! Once the hexagonal end is down you now have two more five sided end caps which proved tricky as well!

The rest of the model came together easily. Glue the triangular tail section onto the main boy along with those boxes you did earlier.

The last part of the ship is the "armour". A couple of folds and scores to shape this and glue over the top of the ship and your done.

Except for the base. The base is very similar to the other ship bases, only bigger. Unlike the other bases where the two struts rose vertically, these lean towards each other and meet at the top.



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Pictures man, where are the pictures?
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spearjr wrote:
Pictures man, where are the pictures?


2nd the request for pictures.
Upload them to the game page and get some GG too! (But you knew that )
 
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I would do all the things I have ever dreamed of doing. I would love to become a professional whistler.I'm pretty amazing at it now, but I wanna get, like, even better. Make my living out of it.
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Howitzer_120mm wrote:
spearjr wrote:
Pictures man, where are the pictures?


2nd the request for pictures.
Upload them to the game page and get some GG too! (But you knew that )

I do know how hard it is to remember to take pictures in the middle of all the crafting, you get absorbed in the cutting, gluing etc.
 
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Dudes, I dont got a camera, I have to borrow my daughters phone camera thing, and she takes it with her to work. Alas I can't take pics when I would want to but when I can. Maybe this weekend, if shes not working.
 
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Here's a tip for the camera fund.
 
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Building Fighters

I've built one fighter unit so far and it's been quite interesting. The actual Fighters themselves were no problem. You cut ,score and foldover and glue together. The end result is a short triangual tube the outside of which depicts the fighters, the inside of the tube is all starfield. You are folding a double sided piece of card into this tube shape and depite scoring I found I got some warping along the flat faces. You're bending the card beyond 90 degrees and this stretches the outside surface and compresses the inside surface.

I ended up with two of the three sides slightly warped and some seperation of the layers. I solved this with a bit of white glue. I think this was probably caused by two things, first I didn't let the glue dry for long enough before folding and my scoring was not deep enough. I'll try remedying that next time. When you edge this piece you'll also have to "edge" the scores as the folds are so extreem that a lot of white is exposed.

The stand/support for the fighters is a bizarre piece of origami. Rather than using the two struts of the previous models, this one uses a pair of bat-like wings glued to the base, which form a bucket for the triangular fighter unit to sit in.

Folding this had me puzzeled for a good while. I'm a man, so instructions are for losers! ... so after I'd looked at the instructions, you fold and glue to make a double sided shape with a flap or two. The two wings are obvious and fold towards each other forming an V shape, the flap at the front was a little confusing. You once again have to fold this to make it double sided and this forms a small triangle at the base of the wings with a coloured flap being glued to the inside of the opposite wing. This leaves you with a ship support that comes to a point where it meets the base.

In my opinion this is a very weak design. Not only is the support physically weak and wobberly but if you were to accidentally lean the model over I suspect this base would not right itself. I'm going to leave it as is for the moment, but if my fears prove founded then I'm going to use some of the spare support structs that I have laying around to create some vertical support for the winged base. I think a M shaped support would have been better. Thatss an M with a deep V in the center.

Over all a very quick to make model and it does look very good.
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Melody
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Yeah, I've found the fighters & missiles wobbly but I think I've found a solution, but I can't test it till this weekend. Puffy paint. I'm want to add a thin bead along the bottom v on either side just like when you silicone a bathtub. I can't get any till this weekend as I live in the middle of nowhere. I tried making small maybe 5mm tall triangular tubes from black card but I wasn't satisfied with the look. It might do better on the full size models but on the 1/2 size it just looked clunky.yuk I wanted to ask about the TOS, I still haven't decided whether to make the full size or 1/2. How long & how high do they work out to be? Thanks.
 
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I decided to go nuts & bought the Uncharted Space map. It's 32 pages!! Mostly black. It's a good thing I refill my own ink cartridges. I'll probably extract the images & recombine them to print in 1/2 scale & only 16 pages. If I print the whole thing I'd probably have to do it in 2 shots as my cartridge would likely run out.
 
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sunshiny wrote:
I decided to go nuts & bought the Uncharted Space map. It's 32 pages!! Mostly black. It's a good thing I refill my own ink cartridges. I'll probably extract the images & recombine them to print in 1/2 scale & only 16 pages. If I print the whole thing I'd probably have to do it in 2 shots as my cartridge would likely run out.


How do you plan to stich those pieces together? Are there any suggestions in the file you downloaded?
 
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It worked out ok if a little tedious. I opened up the map pdf in gimp. Made a base page twice the width of the pages then copied & pasted according to the glueing layout in the file. Saved as jpegs, nothing fancy but it works. Ended up with 16 pages ready to print. I'm also going to do the hex side. Then I'll tape the map together with a teeny weeny bit of spacing. I will then glue the grid side on top & viola a folding double-sided map. Maybe not as cool looking as mounting on a solid base but space saving which is what I need. I'll also go over the sticky side of the tape with a fine permanent maker or paint pen to prevent fuzzies.
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Since I've finished the fleets & game aids it was time for me to make a decision on the TOS. I built up 2 TOS units, one regular size & 1 one 1/2 size. I've decided to go with the 1/2 size. The words are totally legible and the slider and switches work well. I found the regular size to be a little floppy compared to the 1/2 size especially the slider. I'm using 110 card, so maybe that's it as I don't have access to cover stock as recommended by the designer. I will have to make a stat card for the modchips as there is no way you can read them at such a small scale. As for the playmat I'm thinking about just having it printed up and laminated. At 20 x 30 it could fit in my lego closet & would save me so much time. Also would be so much prettier.
 
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Game Ruler

I think I'll skip making this up, it appears to be marked in inches. When made up it's a simple tri fold cylinder. I'm thinking that would be a might weak and easily crushed. I've always used retractable rulers for wargaming so I'll stick to that.
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Today was the day for making the Booms!

One of the included PDFs has the explosion templates. These are absolutely wonderful looking. Much better than some of the other similar templates I've come across. They come into their own when placed on a black background. Bright and colourful in the center and fading to black nearer the edge. A nice touch is that the outside of the circle shows a "pressure" wave caused by the explosion that reminded me of the explosion of the "Nostromo".

Constructing them is very easy, they end up as a double sided circle. For all three sizes the construction is the same. Cut round the boxes, stick back to back then cut out the circles and then of course, edge them.

My card started to warp as soon as I started applying the glue ( glue stick ) so once I had enough glue on them they went under my cutting mat for half an hour to force them to dry flat.

I'm very happy with the end result.



 
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