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Subject: Q: What paints to use for miniatures? rss

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Robert Corrina
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ah. Indeed, 70% Isopropyl is what I was referring to.

so usually when I brush paint the formula is:

1/2 water, 1/2 acrylic paint

but lately I have also been using:

1/4 70% Isopropyl, 1/4 water, 1/2 paint

...

I am also curious as to what miniatures are available there. Here in the US it is tricky and expensive to get anything shipped from Rackham or Infinity. Plus you must have other mini lines that we have not even heard of over here.
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Jan Tuijp
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Ryotsu wrote:
Another great thing to do with acrylics is to make and use a wet palette. This will severely decrease the amount of time that the paint on your palette takes to dry. It's easy and cheap.


Yep, with a wet palette you use considerably less paint and because it doesn't dry out you can go back to previous colours, which saves you even more paint (and speeds up the whole painting process significantly).

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Scott Moore
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You can make a wet palette for practically nothing just do a search on you tube. There are numerous painting guides on the net and specifically you tube. I lam returning to the hobby and using Vallejo paints and some GW ones

Have fun
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J J
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bluemoono wrote:
You can make a wet palette for practically nothing just do a search on you tube. There are numerous painting guides on the net and specifically you tube. I lam returning to the hobby and using Vallejo paints and some GW ones

Have fun


Just curious - why do you choose to use GW over something like Coat D'arms (which is the old - 1990s - GW paint, but refined and better bottled)?
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Scott Moore
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Most of my paints are Vallejo I happened to get some from GW when I was passing by the other week

Going to check out the Coat D'arms paints I've not used those. I like the Vallejo bottles - never liked the GW ones, I used to paint GW minis back in the day
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Reveil The Warlock
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hi! I am looking for advice on which paints to buy. Currently I've painted one model with a mix of citadel and valejo gamecolor paints and liked the dropper bottles a lot.
So, I am going to paint my board games like Descent or WoW the board game and play them after. I understand that coating them after painting is a must, but which paints to choose? I am looking at valejo game color or ral partha? Any advice?
 
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Original Dibbler
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Reveil wrote:
hi! I am looking for advice on which paints to buy. Currently I've painted one model with a mix of citadel and valejo gamecolor paints and liked the dropper bottles a lot.
So, I am going to paint my board games like Descent or WoW the board game and play them after. I understand that coating them after painting is a must, but which paints to choose? I am looking at valejo game color or ral partha? Any advice?


I use Citadel Matte Varnish (spray can) and never had any problems with that.
 
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Scott Moore
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+1 on the gw spray will protect ans finish your figures off nicely.
 
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Reveil The Warlock
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Yea, varnish is a must, but I am more interested in opinions on paints: valejo GC or Ral Partha?
 
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Original Dibbler
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I use mainly Valejo. I have never tried Ral Partha.
 
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Salim Khoury
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So where are you guys buying the Vallejo paint from? It doesn't seem to be available locally (Houston), and the online stores I've come across carry bleh options...
 
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Original Dibbler
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Salimo wrote:
So where are you guys buying the Vallejo paint from? It doesn't seem to be available locally (Houston), and the online stores I've come across carry bleh options...


I suppose a shop in AachenGermans and a German online shop will not help you...
 
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Kristopher
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I've been painting miniatures for over ten years. I use a hardware store bought spray primer and cheap craft acrylics thinned down, with an art store bought gloss or matte finish, and I get just a good a paint job out of that as I ever did from overpriced Brand Name Acrylic paints from GW or elsewhere.

cool

(What the equivalent would be in Germany, I'm not sure.)
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Reveil The Warlock
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It's good, when you'r pro at it. We, begginers, get better results out of branded supplys imo: easyer to choose base-highlight-shadow colors, allways right consistency, more tutorials with precise color names.

I am still looking for opinions on ral partha europe paints in 2013.
 
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Yuliyan Kalaydzhiev
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Hi again!

A couple of months later and a busy schedule - the project is still going..

To show at least some progress, here is an orc warg rider I did (camera is not that great, sorry about that):



I have had a big sat-back with the lighter shades though. Here are miniatures that I tried to paint orange. They have around 6 layers on them already! And they still have shades of green on them! I used black GW primer and some no-name acrylic paints (ArtCreation brand), un-dilluded. No matter how often I apply the colour I get the same result - as soon as the paint dries out, it "soaks" in the primer and makes out of the orange a greenish brown. What am I doing wrong? Am I using bad paint? Are Citadel, Vallejo etc. that special in terms of coverage? Or should I always prime white/light gray for bright colors?



One mistake I am aware of is that I applied too thick layers and the minss are ruined now. I was experimenting, what I have to do to get the orange to stick... Can the German part of the readers recommend a cheap paint removal agent from Praktiker, Hornbach or OBI? What about a brand one?

Thanks in advance for answering this tsunami of questions!
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Original Dibbler
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BGOrion wrote:
Hi again!

A couple of months later and a busy schedule - the project is still going..

To show at least some progress, here is an orc warg rider I did (camera is not that great, sorry about that):



I have had a big sat-back with the lighter shades though. Here are miniatures that I tried to paint orange. They have around 6 layers on them already! And they still have shades of green on them! I used black GW primer and some no-name acrylic paints (ArtCreation brand), un-dilluded. No matter how often I apply the colour I get the same result - as soon as the paint dries out, it "soaks" in the primer and makes out of the orange a greenish brown. What am I doing wrong? Am I using bad paint? Are Citadel, Vallejo etc. that special in terms of coverage? Or should I always prime white/light gray for bright colors?



One mistake I am aware of is that I applied too thick layers and the minss are ruined now. I was experimenting, what I have to do to get the orange to stick... Can the German part of the readers recommend a cheap paint removal agent from Praktiker, Hornbach or OBI? What about a brand one?

Thanks in advance for answering this tsunami of questions!


First things first: If you want a (bright) orange look you should use white primer.

Citadel, Vallejo, Foundation, Reaper and so on are special in that sense that they use smaller pigments than other hobby acrylics that are not esp. designed for painting minis. This has some advantages but nothing to do with your problem I guess.

I suppose you just have a bad colour. Try another one.

I cannot help you with a good paint remover for plastic minis.
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Jake Staines
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BGOrion wrote:
Am I using bad paint? Are Citadel, Vallejo etc. that special in terms of coverage? Or should I always prime white/light gray for bright colors?


Yes, Yes, but also Yes.

Paints not intended for painting miniatures often don't have so much pigment in and/or have crappy coarse-solids pigment which doesn't cover evenly. Paints intended for painting miniatures are often liquid-pigment or at least fine solids that cover better and more evenly.

That said, oranges and yellows are notorious for not being very opaque, and you'll always get a better result painting over a bright base layer. It doesn't have to be primer - most white acrylics are pretty opaque, you could just paint a layer of white over the area you want to be orange, then paint the orange over that once it's dry.

Also, pay attention to the properties of particular paints. For example, Vallejo needs a lot of shaking, and if you don't mix it well enough it will be less opaque. Citadel used to do a range called 'foundation' which were specifically more opaque than their regular paints, and IIRC included at least a red; they changed their range and I can't remember if they replaced foundation with something similar or just dropped that particular branch of their range.
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Original Dibbler
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Bichatse wrote:
Citadel used to do a range called 'foundation' which were specifically more opaque than their regular paints, and IIRC included at least a red; they changed their range and I can't remember if they replaced foundation with something similar or just dropped that particular branch of their range.


It is now called base and supposed to cover even a black primer with one layer.

http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/armySubUnitCats.js...

(I have not tried it myself.)
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Scott Moore
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There is a pretty easy way to remove paint from minis I did post the youtube video on here before somewhere if not here it is again..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FE08B6jDt24


well thats a diff vid but same kinda solution
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J J
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To remove acrylic paint from a plastic miniature, soak it in brake fluid for a couple of days, then scrub with a stiff brush.

To paint orange, use a cream-coloured undercoat (usually named bone or something like it - I find this gives a much better result than white), and then use paints made specifically for miniatures (I recommend Coat D'Arms).
 
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Yuliyan Kalaydzhiev
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Thanks for all the helpful replies! I guess I won't be able to avoid spending a nice sum on paints... this is hobby is going to ruin me! I think I am gonna go for Vallejo - don't dry up that fast and can be dosed easily for mixing.

As far as the removal agent goes... I will post what I came up with and how it worked!

Happy gaming!

P.S. Come to think of it, an interesting question: How much can I cover with a single bottle of paint? I am interested in the War of the Ring and Descent (First Edition Base Set + Second Edition) minis. If I buy 10 bottles with the primary colors, what is the chance they'll run out on me?
 
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Jake Staines
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galad2003 wrote:

Vallejo is a really good brand, be sure to shake them well though every time you use them.


This can't be emphasised enough - Vallejo paints really need their shaking. If you have some to hand, prise the dropper cap off before you first use them and drop a ball bearing in, it'll help mix the paint.
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Yuliyan Kalaydzhiev
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I ordered some Vallejo paints, around 15 bottles. While I was at the hardware store I also picked up a white primer (already have grey and black) and a matt varnish. Haven't yet decided what to do with the already painted minis I have to strip of paint...

For those of you interested in my progress: Waiting for the paints to arrive made my hands itch and I decided to have another go at painting. This is a figurine (pencil holder) I primered grey last month. I used the old paints. First I basecoated with brown and then put dark red over it. I washed with even darker red and highlighted with blood red. Unfortunately, I can't seem to get the hang of this because the contrast washed-based-highlighted is still relatively low. Maybe I should you more contrasting colors? Or maybe I am drybrushing too hard I did the bony parts in light brown and then did them over with ocker. The most interesting thing I was capable of was doing some cascading coloring on the wings The back side of the pencil holder is not ready yet. This is the end result:

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Yuliyan Kalaydzhiev
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Hi there again! Thanks for the helpful remarks so far! I hope nobody is annoyed by me posting my progress here? This is the only way I thought of that I can get feedback by the crowd

So! My Vallejos arrived and I was too excited to wait for spring and nice weather. So I took a chance and primed some of the Descent minis (all heroes 1st + 2nd edition and goblin archers and spiders) with white. The weather was around 2-3°C and it was pretty humid (80%) but at least it wasn't snowing/raining. It was the best chance I will probably get in the next month...

Anyway, here are some pics from what I managed:

Fail Nr. 1: Spotty primer?!


Fail Nr. 2: Cracked paint


(a kind of) Win Nr. 1:


(a kind of) Win Nr. 2:


I still can't get the hang of priming somehow. I often have to go 15-20 times over the minis with the spray. Is that normal? And this spottiness of the coat - is it due to the bad weather or due to a bad primer (bought it at the hardware store, no fancy brand)?

Another problem I have is that the paint gets brushed of the minis real easy.. I have no contraption to hold them so I just hold them where I don't paint. Coats that I did a couple of hours ago get stripped by just holding the mini at that place. That wasn't the case when I used my other no-name paints. Is it also because of the bad priming or is that normal for "professional" miniature paints?

A third problem is the cracking of the paint you can see on the goblin with the light brown cloths. Bad priming again? I really don't think I applied too fat a layer which is typically followed by that kind of cracking... (so I've read )

And finally - do you think I should remove the primer from the heroes and apply it again or maybe just primer one more coat on top (in spring that is)? I am not aiming for something mind-blowing but I don't like having cracks and patchy paint jobs either...

Any feedback is welcome! Thanks and happy paintin'!
 
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J J
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BGOrion wrote:
I still can't get the hang of priming somehow. I often have to go 15-20 times over the minis with the spray. Is that normal? And this spottiness of the coat - is it due to the bad weather or due to a bad primer (bought it at the hardware store, no fancy brand)?


No, that's not normal. A primer should be applied in one go, for a thin but solid covering - anything else will fill all the details.

Yes, this may very well be because of the primer you are using - just as the paints you bought specifically for using on miniatures differ in composition from ordinary acrylics, so primers differ depending on the purpose for which they were manufactured.

Quote:

Another problem I have is that the paint gets brushed of the minis real easy.. I have no contraption to hold them so I just hold them where I don't paint. Coats that I did a couple of hours ago get stripped by just holding the mini at that place. That wasn't the case when I used my other no-name paints. Is it also because of the bad priming or is that normal for "professional" miniature paints?


I use ice-cream sticks and blu-tac for my Epic stuff. Simple but very effective.

However, that isn't your main issue here - decent acrylics should be dry and immovable within 30 minutes at the most. Either the paint you are using is poor (or perhaps watered down), or the primer is of the sort that your acrylics cannot properly adhere to (the most likely cause).

Quote:

A third problem is the cracking of the paint you can see on the goblin with the light brown cloths. Bad priming again? I really don't think I applied too fat a layer which is typically followed by that kind of cracking... (so I've read )


Probably the primer - not what you are doing, but what you are using.

Quote:

And finally - do you think I should remove the primer from the heroes and apply it again or maybe just primer one more coat on top (in spring that is)? I am not aiming for something mind-blowing but I don't like having cracks and patchy paint jobs either...


Multiple or thick layers of primer are both bad - I would start again.

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